AMD Motherboards - Motherbaord won't start.

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Motherbaord won't start.

Printed From: ASRock.com
Category: Technical Support
Forum Name: AMD Motherboards
Forum Description: Question about ASRock AMD motherboards
URL: https://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=12129
Printed Date: 18 Oct 2024 at 6:32pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Motherbaord won't start.

Posted By: Patton521
Subject: Motherbaord won't start.
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 12:35am

I recently bought a X470 Taichi Ultimate motherboard and I got it installed today, I plugged in the power cable to the PSU and the LED lights came on and then faded in and out but on pressing the power button on the tower nothing happened, so I tried the power button on the motherboard itself and same thing happened. I tried anything and everything I could find online about it but I kept getting the same result, nothing. No sound or movement at all. All the cables and wires where all in the correct places and the RAM stick was properly seated in its slot. I can't for the life of me figure out whats going on here.

Replies:

Posted By: Ray62
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 3:16am

You should always first make a test setup on the desk without case, just with mainboard, CPU, RAM, GPU and keyboard, mouse.
This board has power and reset button.

Anyway, which CPU, RAM, and GPU are used?

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Asrock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming Offline
Under test:
MSI X570_MEG_ACE | AMD Ryzen 9 3900X | Scythe Mugen5 | 2x16GB F4-3200C14D-32GTZ@3466 | ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FE

Posted By: KiF1rE
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 3:29am

Ray62 wrote:

You should always first make a test setup on the desk without case, just with mainboard, CPU, RAM, GPU and keyboard, mouse.
This board has power and reset button.

Anyway, which CPU, RAM, and GPU are used?

Second the cpu and ram. If it's a 3000 series processor and your board is on a old bios that isn't 3000 series ready. It needs to be updated first.

Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 3:50am

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 8 Core, 16 Thread Processor
RAM: HyperX Fury 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4 2400MHz DRAM
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti DirectX 12 GTX 1660 TI GAMING X 6G 6GB 192-Bit GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 3:56am

The bios is P1.50 which is what came with the board. But the problem I have is it won't start up at all. It's kinda hard to update the bios when the board isn't on.

Posted By: Ray62
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 3:18pm

Maybe something went wrong when mounting the board into the case...

First make a test setup on the desk without case, just with mainboard, CPU, one RAM stick, GPU, keyboard, mouse and no drive.
Make a CMOS clear and try to start the board.

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Asrock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming Offline
Under test:
MSI X570_MEG_ACE | AMD Ryzen 9 3900X | Scythe Mugen5 | 2x16GB F4-3200C14D-32GTZ@3466 | ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FE

Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 8:47pm

Ray62 wrote:

Maybe something went wrong when mounting the board into the case...

First make a test setup on the desk without case, just with mainboard, CPU, one RAM stick, GPU, keyboard, mouse and no drive.
Make a CMOS clear and try to start the board.

I tried testing the motherboard outside the case with just the 8-pin 12V and the 24-pin as suggested by ASRock tech support and I got the same result as before. The lights came on and nothing else happened. I got a feeling that this motherboard was either DOA or something else happened. The board is getting power because if it wasn't the lights wouldn't come on but it just won't turn on.

Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 9:07pm

Just out of curiosity, have you checked to make sure the clear CMOS jumper is not in the clear position? Some retail outlets will occasionally test boards before shipping them out and if their tech left the jumper in the clear position it would result in exactly the behavior you describe. Even if you have moved the jumper yourself (to clear CMOS) you may have been moving it from clear to normal and back to clear again.

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Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 10:18pm

Xaltar wrote:

Just out of curiosity, have you checked to make sure the clear CMOS jumper is not in the clear position? Some retail outlets will occasionally test boards before shipping them out and if their tech left the jumper in the clear position it would result in exactly the behavior you describe. Even if you have moved the jumper yourself (to clear CMOS) you may have been moving it from clear to normal and back to clear again.

I can't locate the clear CMOS jumper anywhere on this motherboard. There are two clear CMOS buttons, the first is next to where you would plug the power switch, reset switch, HD led and the P led and the second is located in the I/O panel at the back. Even according the manual there is no other clear CMOS other then the buttons.

Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 1:11am

In that case, make sure both switches are functioning correctly, if you push them there should be a tactile click. If there is no click the switch may be stuck in the clear state. You can also check the traces under the switches, make sure there are no shorts.

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Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 10:49am

Xaltar wrote:

In that case, make sure both switches are functioning correctly, if you push them there should be a tactile click. If there is no click the switch may be stuck in the clear state. You can also check the traces under the switches, make sure there are no shorts.

I checked that and the buttons are good.

Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 3:05pm

The power button having no effect typically indicates one of 2 things:

1. The Clear CMOS jumper/switch is in the clear position (or stuck button in boards like yours)
2. The power protection fail-safes have been triggered.

If the fail-safes have been triggered it is typically because of a short somewhere or an improperly installed CPU. Remove the CPU and make sure none of the pins are bent.

If that checks out the disconnect everything from the board except CPU, RAM, PSU and GPU. Make sure you are using the correct 8pin 12v power from the PSU, it is possible to accidentally connect a PCIe 8pin power with some PSUs where the connector is a bit softer and more flexible.

If you still have no joy then thoroughly examine the underside of the board for anything that could be shorting. The fact that you have power to the board (LEDs light up) but the power switch does nothing indicates a safety feature is preventing damage to the system should the board attempt to power on. It could be anything from a bent over component leg under the board (from a capacitor for example) that is shorting to a screw that fell on the board somewhere and got lodged in a place that created a short.

Good luck

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Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 11:32pm

Xaltar wrote:

The power button having no effect typically indicates one of 2 things:

1. The Clear CMOS jumper/switch is in the clear position (or stuck button in boards like yours)
2. The power protection fail-safes have been triggered.

If the fail-safes have been triggered it is typically because of a short somewhere or an improperly installed CPU. Remove the CPU and make sure none of the pins are bent.

If that checks out the disconnect everything from the board except CPU, RAM, PSU and GPU. Make sure you are using the correct 8pin 12v power from the PSU, it is possible to accidentally connect a PCIe 8pin power with some PSUs where the connector is a bit softer and more flexible.

If you still have no joy then thoroughly examine the underside of the board for anything that could be shorting. The fact that you have power to the board (LEDs light up) but the power switch does nothing indicates a safety feature is preventing damage to the system should the board attempt to power on. It could be anything from a bent over component leg under the board (from a capacitor for example) that is shorting to a screw that fell on the board somewhere and got lodged in a place that created a short.

Good luck

The CPU pins are straight. I bought a multimeter to check for the short but I'm not quite sure how to go about doing it as I've never done this type of test before. Could someone give me some pointers?

Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 12:50am

If you need a multimeter to find the short then it's time to return the board

What I have been talking about is the obvious, a component leg bent over and touching another component's leg etc. It should be visible to the naked eye. This kind of thing can happen when installing the motherboard into the case, scraping the underside against a standoff for example.

The general rule with this kind of situation is to disconnect everything from the board, check it over thoroughly and then start troubleshooting from there.

On the off chance we can find the issue, lets go through some troubleshooting steps:

1. Take the board out of the case and remove everything from it (CPU, GPU, RAM etc)
2. Examine the board on the back side closely, look for any sign of scraping or bent component legs that may be shorting. If you see none move on.
3. Install the CPU and the 24pin power connector, nothing else. See if the power button responds. If the system powers on in this state it will not post but at least you will know if the power on function is working.
4. If the system powers up in step 3 insert a single RAM module in slot A2 and connect the 8pin CPU power connector (it should be a 4+4 connector, not a 6+2). See if the system powers on.
5. If step 4 is successful install your GPU and power on.
6. If all goes well you should be able to post at this point.

If you fail before step 4, return the board to your place of purchase. Warranty should be covered by the retailer.

If you fail after step 4 post back here and we will dig deeper.

Good luck

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Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 1:56am

Xaltar wrote:

If you need a multimeter to find the short then it's time to return the board

Ok I followed the steps (although the board was already out of the case beforehand). I didn't see any sign of anything that would be causing a short. At step 3 I installed the CPU and the 24 pin power connector. I pressed the power button but again got no response. I did use the multimeter to check if the power button was in fact getting power and it is. So this test failed at step 3.

Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 2:36am

Well this might be another problem. While doing some research it turns out that this motherboard does not support my current OS which is Win 7 64-bit but it does support Win 10 64-bit.

Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 7:36am

Could it be that my PSU is under powered? I have an Antec EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.4 SLI Ready CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply - Intel Haswell Fully Compatible.

Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 12:54pm

It would be worth trying another PSU. Spec wise that one should be fine but if it has a fault, it could cause your issues.

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Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 11:15pm

Xaltar wrote:

It would be worth trying another PSU. Spec wise that one should be fine but if it has a fault, it could cause your issues.

Alright so I did some last minute troubleshooting and found something. If I plug in the 24-pin power connector and install the CPU the motherboard will start up. If I plug in the 8-pin 12V and the CPU fan it will start but NOT if I seat the CPU fan and lock it in place.

Posted By: Patton521
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2019 at 11:28pm

Ok so I got everything working aside from the fact that I need Windows 10. I looked at the Windows 7 USB patcher but that would really only work if I was going to install 7 but I've already got it installed.