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AR Fatal1ty 970 Performance- RAM compatibility

Printed From: ASRock.com
Category: Technical Support
Forum Name: AMD Motherboards
Forum Description: Question about ASRock AMD motherboards
URL: https://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1656
Printed Date: 21 Dec 2024 at 10:57pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: AR Fatal1ty 970 Performance- RAM compatibility
Posted By: dinin70
Subject: AR Fatal1ty 970 Performance- RAM compatibility
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 12:43am
Dear Members,

Happy new year first of all!


I am checking the compatible RAM for this board and I'm extremely surprised about the listed RAM... First of all there are very few listed / tested

http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20970%20Performance/?cat=Memory



Almost none of them is findable in the market either because they simply never existed in Europe either because they are completely obsolete (released in 2009 - 2010...).


Do any of you know if there is an updated list somewhere?



Or, can you please tell me if that MoBo is compatible with this RAM:


HyperX Fury HX318C10FRK2/8? Kingston says it does but I know it's not always reliable


Or this one?


Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9. I know the MSI 970 and 990FX MoBos are compatible with this RAM


Thank you very much!



Replies:
Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 12:51am
Your best bet is to check the RAM's compatibility lists. The listings for motherboards typically don't get updated after release unless a new feature is added via BIOS.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 5:45pm
Hi Xaltar,

Thank you for your reply but yet I'm very disappointed about this... I don't understand why AsRock puts so few efforts in indicating the customer what is or is not compatible with their MB. 

I even wonder if they care in any way...


The 970 Fatal1ty 3.0 is a recent MotherBoard, less than 2 years old... And compatible RAM are all more than 5-6 years old... WTH??

I mean... 2 years MoBo with 5-6 years RAM????? It is not a "timing issue". If MoBo was released 2 years ago, why is it compatible with so much obsolete RAM (or simply unfinable in Western Europe)? Why no recent RAM (2 years old) is listed?


This means 2 things:
- either it is built on a very old architecture (I'm too noob to know anything on this side) and it simply doesn't support recent RAM.
- either they didn't even bother checking compatibility with recent RAM


And it's not specially AMD problem since as mentionned earlier at least MSI provides a much more "recent" list of compatible RAM for equivalent board.



The problem is that I own this MoBo and that I'm suffering several BSOD (even when computer is iddle, messages being: system_service_exception; Kmode_exception_not_handled; IRQL_not_less_or_equal with faulty drivers being tcpip.sys; win32kfull.sys; ntoskernel.exe). 

Troubleshooted all ways possible... Disabling WiFi card, staying on Ethernet. Disabling Ethernet and staying on WiFi. Putting my old ASUS 5870 (that always worker perfecly on Intel Chipset) instead of my current Sapphire R9 380 (when switching, always usind Display Driver Uninstaller). Made all possible tests I know on Temperature, chkdsk, sfc scan, Memtest86.

All drivers up to date, Bios up to date, all firmwares up to date...

Reverted from Windows 10 to Windows 7 through a complete formatting. And yet I experience problems while Windows was 100% clean!! I succeeded in having a BSOD while making the very first step: as soon as Windows was launched for the first time --> install MoBo drivers. And PAF!! Crash!!

Obviously no Overcloaking, Windows is a paid licence, fully updated. 

Since I had BSOD even on iddle computer it cannot be Voltage problem.


Two things left then:
- MoBo is malfunctionning
- RAM is not compatible.


Before contacting the Technical support I at least wanted to make sure RAM is fine.

But since THERE IS NOT A SINGLE RAM from AsRock List findable in the market because they are way too old, what am I supposed to do?? 



Anyway it is clear, I am never going to buy an AsRock again... I will stay on Gigabyte and MSI... I regret so much having bought this MoBo...


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 7:05pm
It is literally IMPOSSIBLE for a motherboard manufacturer to have every stick of memory produced.

Then the time to test each new to market stick on a board? No, labor intensive.

OP, instead, relieve your fears. If a memory manufacture states their product as certified/compatible run with it.

It's far easier for a memory manufacturer to buy what little motherboards there are than for a motherboard manufacturer to buy an ever expanding number of new and forthcoming memory sticks.

The memory manufacturers have a vested interest in telling customers, You, that their product is compatible.

As I said, if the manufacturer states it compatible, run with it. If there is a problem, they will make it right. G.Skill is outstanding in regards to this. As are the others also. They, memory manufacturers, WANT to sell to you and make you a happy customer.

But to lay blame on ASRock is misguided. For the reasons I state above.

We do not look to our cars manufacturer, Chevrolet for instance, to dictate what tires can and cannot fit our vehicle. Nor should we expect ASRock to dictate what memory can and cannot be used on their motherboard.




Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 8:40pm
Hello Wardog,
 
I absolutely get your point.
 
I understand AsRock cannot run all RAM available on the market. As you say there are thousands! 
 
The problem I have with this is that in the end, if you have a Hardware problem, like I do, you are pretty sure to be in a difficult position because no matter what you do:
 
- it is almost impossible to find the reason of the defect when ALL tests provide you "OK" results.
- if you have no Voltage pike, all tests are "OK", no overcloak, all drivers, bios, firmwares, updates up to date.
- if you have tested all hardware except, obviously, CPU and MoBo...
- what do you have left?
 
 
Going to the MoBo Manufacturer and say: "listen pal, your MoBo doesn't function". And what can be the obvious answer? "you are not using a RAM that we tested, the MoBo is fully OK".
 
 
And then guess what? You are *biiip* because there is no way to find any in the market because they are way too old... So no way to prove there's something wrong with the MoBo. That's the frustrating thing. Not that AsRock would be lying, but I'm not even sure myself that the MoBo has a problem unless I change all other hardwares (PSU, CPU and RAM).
 
And in the end, if it is the MoBo that caused me so much problems, I would have spent for nothing extra 300EUR... + probably an extra 120EUR to replace the MoBo...
 
 
But you are right, I shouldn't blame AsRock for providing a limited RAM list and I shouldn't say anything about warranty before I checked with them if the MoBo has something wrong.
 
I'm just superfrustrated... I spent I don't know how many hours troubleshooting, replacing, testing, formatting, installing, uninstalling, mounting, unmounting that now, except replacing hardwares there is nothing I can do. It is impossible to troubleshoot a MoBo: "check your drivers, check your ram compatibility, replace hardwares, are all updates installed, use this fix, use Memtest, use sfc scannow, check your psu, check your voltage, uncache the BIOS, reinstall windows, untick this box when installing the driver, check your bios, check your chipset temperature, install the drivers from net directly and not from the CD since they are obsolete and so on for a looooong time".
 
I ordered the Kingston. If there is still a problem I'll send back the MoBo to AsRock.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 9:42pm
Dinin70, list out the parts inside your case, including the PSU and its age if you would please.

I feel your frustration. Been there, done that. Many times.

Have you rum MemTest on/against your memory? That would be a good place to start if you haven't yet.

And BTW, just what specific memory do you have installed at the moment. NM, I'll learn that when you list out the components you're using.

I'm thinking it's a memory compatability issue, so if you care to, we can do some diagnosing before you tear into her and send a good motherboard back, just to get it back and have the same issue with your current components.




Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 10:32pm

Hi Wardog,

 

Thank you for your proposal. Here is my complete rig:

 

CPU: FX8350 - 3 months old

CPU cooler: vertical Cooler Master Hyper TX3 Evo - 3 months old

MoBo: AsRock 970 Fatal1ty Performance 3.0 - 3 months old

RAM: Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 - 2x4Gb 1600 Ram C9 - set @ 1333mhz in BIOS - 2.5/3 years old

PSU: 750W Corsair (I think it is the CX Bronze) - pretty old: 5 years old

Graphic Card: Sapphire Nitro R9 380 4GB GDDR5 OC - 2 months old

Primary Hard drive:  Samsung SSD 850EVO 256GB - 3 months old.

Secondary Hard drive: 5y old HDD that has no system files, only pictures, documents and so on.

Wifi Card: Asus PCE AC56: 2 months old

Case: 5years old Antec Twelve hundred (3 front 12cm fans, 2 rear 12cm fans, 1 top bigger fan)

 

Softwares:

Windows 7, 64 Home

Office 2016

Microsoft Antivirus since Bitdefender 2016 was causing me severe problems (it was even blocking I.E.11)

Driver booster 3

 

 

I did run every kind of test I know, none of them provided any issue:

Memtest86

Sfc scannow

Chkdsk

Furmark for GPU temperature checked through Sapphire TriXX: with custom Fan setting it never goes above 60C.

CPU and MB Temperature, I check it through F-Stream after gaming or tests: always cool, always saw it lower than 50C

 

I would like to run as soon as possible Video Memory Test but I don't believe it will provide any issue.

 

 

All my stuff is updated, all the latest drivers, BIOS, firmwares, updates.

 

 

My issues, to make it short: 3 months ago I had to change motherboard so I decided to undertake a major upgrade. After having plugged everything, I installed with no issues at all Windows 7 and installed on the top of it Windows 10.

 

I started then suffering a lot of BSOD.

 

Youtube seemed to be a major cause. However, BSOD / general freezes could happen anytime. While copy pasting files, while gaming, even while doing nothing at all!!! Sometimes BSOD occur very quickly, sometimes not. Updating AMD Gaming Evolve was causing for sure BSOD and was causing important issues. This makes thinking about Graphic Card issues, but it's not. It happened even when I switched with my old ATI 5870 (always using Display Driver Uninstaller) that always functioned perfectly on Intel Chipset.

 

BSOD messages were mostly: KMODE EXCEPTION NOT HANDLED, SYSYTEM SERVICE EXCEPTION, IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL.

 

Faulty files drivers were mainly: win32kfull.sys; tcpip.sys; and ntoskernel.exe was always pointed out from the minidump.

 

 

Important to know that BSOD occurred even though I changed slots for the RAM; switching between Graphic Cards (my old ASUS 5870HD); switching between Ethernet and Wifi Card.

 

I thought Windows 10 could be the issue so I formatted everything to revert to Windows 7. I did that the day before yesterday.

 

I had to install it twice (from scratch) because the first time I had .NET Framework and MOM.EXE issues and Windows Updates didn't install at all. I suffered BSOD while updating the Graphic Card Drivers. Fed up, I decided to reinstall Windows.

 

The second time I installed Windows 7 I had an issue once: after having installed Windows, before doing anything else I had a BSOD while installing the AsRock Drivers from the CD, during the Ethernet Driver installation. Since then, it looks a bit better. Could update with no issue the last Graphic Card Drivers, the BIOS update went smooth, Driver Booster installed with no problems all the remaining drivers. Windows update installed almost everything by now with no issue.

 

However I don't have much hope since I had no issues installing Windows 7 the very first time and since I already, during this session, suffered a BSOD (when installing the Motherboard Drivers).

 

Here is for the full topic

J

Thank you in advance for your help!



Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 11:28pm
tcpip.sys is a network related file and you had issues with installing the network driver when you performed a fresh install. Bad network drivers can cause BSODs along the lines you mentioned and so can an intermittent cable fault. If there is an intermittent short in your LAN cable it can cause data corruption over the LAN and that can cause issues in the OS when certain things are happening, like streaming a youtube video for example.

Try replacing the LAN cables on your system, both to your router and from your ISP if possible. It may not be the root of your problem but given the evidence it is a good place to start.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 11:46pm
Hi Xaltar,
 
 
This is exactly the reason why I think there is a problem on the Motherboard... Why:
 
- had issues when installing the Ethernet Drivers
- had issues when installing / updating the Graphic Card Drivers
- had tcpip.sys related BSOD.
 
It cannot be the cable, the Ethernet adapter on the Computer or the router. Why?
 
- Most of the time my computer is on WiFi
- Cable is present only when I need to update the Asus WiFi Card drivers
 
At this point we could think in fact the problem comes from the cable between the Wall and the Router. It would make sense since I have BSOD while cabled and equally while on Wifi. But the issue cannot come from the router. Why?
 
- Because I experienced same BSODs, while on cable or on WiFi, while I was at a Friends place, troubleshooting my computer.
 
 
That's why I believe it is a Motherboard issue or something related to it:
--> CPU malfunctioning?
--> RAM incompatibility?
--> or maybe even PSU even though I don't see why while I was on Intel chipset I had no issues. It would really be unluck that issues appear on the PSU exactly when I switch chipset! To recall, it is a 750W and I'm not overclocking anything so it should be way enough for my computer. Furthermore, BSOD appeared equally when computer was idle.
 
However, PSU instability could make sense. Maybe there were problems on the PSU that burned my previous MoBo and CPU (5years old) and is now creating instability on my current Motherboard. Possible?


Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 11:55pm
If the memory in the compatibility list is, as you said:

"The 970 Fatal1ty 3.0 is a recent MotherBoard, less than 2 years old... And compatible RAM are all more than 5-6 years old... WTH??"

Wouldn't that be the case because the AM3+ processors that are compatible with boards like yours are also of the same approximate vintage too? Or even older.

Yes the 970 Performance/3.1 board is a newer board, but the chipset it uses is not less than two years old, it is contemporary with the AM3+ processors that are compatible with it. The 970 chipset was released in 2011.

Still, I understand your frustration with the limited selection of the memory compatibility list. But understand that the memory must also be compatible with Phenom II, Athlon II, and Sempron processors, as the board is too. That may well limit the choices when overall compatibility is required.



-------------
http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 12:17am
Hi Parsec,
 
Your point makes completely sense, but what does make no sense to me is that AsRock for example releases a Motherboard that is only compatible with obsolete RAM. That really makes no sense at all to me...
 
I mean, it makes as much sense as building a new car that only allows for obsolete clutch you can't find in the market...


Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 12:40am
The compatibility list is determined by the memory ASRock tested with the board and in many cases where there is a new revision of an older board, like the Fatal1ty 970 Performance/3.1 the list is simply inherited from the base model. As Parsec said, a large part of RAM compatibility stems from the CPU as that is where the memory controller resides and in the case of AMD CPUs it stands to reason that many of the RAM modules originally supported are obsolete due to to the age of the AM3+ platform. The manufacturer does not define what RAM is supported, these parameters are set by the chipset and CPU manufacturer, in this case AMD. When working with a now almost obsolete platform it stands to reason compatibility will be spotty. Now the manufacturer can and does shoe horn compatibility via BIOS updates to increase the number of RAM specifications supported either by using tricks or simply allowing the RAM to be recognized and utilized correctly if it adheres to a supported specification. Beyond a certain point however it falls to the RAM manufacturer to ensure their products retain compatibility with older boards. This is the case now with all AMD platforms regardless of when a particular model was released.




Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 2:41am
Hi Xaltar,
 
If it's that then I should be saved, Kingston specifically pointed the Asrock Fatal1ty 970 performance as being compatible.
 
However, I have few hopes about that... But who knows! ??


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 4:36am

Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

RAM: Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 - 2x4Gb 1600 Ram C9 - set @ 1333mhz in BIOS - 2.5/3 years old



For starters, Corsair doesn't list that specific memory for your motherboard. That may or may not mean it is compatible. Probally not is my guess. As I said, manufacturers have a vested interest in stating compatibility. It's their product and w/o they wouldn't be turning a profit. Not good for them.

Secondly, with you providing your list and stating that it runs at 1333 but not 1600 only bolsters my initial thoughts that this is BIOS/memory related. The BIOS has to "know' what the sticks configuration is before it will "cooperate' with memory

We can try w/o requesting a New BIOS from ASRock though. If you'd like, can you put some CPU-z screenshots of the Memory and SPD tabs for BOTH sticks please.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 4:54am
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Hi Parsec,
 
Your point makes completely sense, but what does make no sense to me is that AsRock for example releases a Motherboard that is only compatible with obsolete RAM. That really makes no sense at all to me...


You've gone the wrong way again in believing that point.

Since ASRock does not have every available stick of memory ever produced they in no way can be expected to list much for compatibility other than what they have in-house at the time the motherboard was initially released. And then only list the sticks they have on hand at that particular time, that work.

That does not include the BIOS updates ASRock releases at later dates that are strictly for memory compatibility purposes.

I believe here in your instance unfortunately, for whatever reason, ASRock didn't include compatibility for the sticks you have now into a BIOS release. Too, keep in mind the sticks you are using are "recycled' from an older build. That means the sticks were produced some time well before your 970 performance came to market.

I haven't a clue how much of this particular memory was sold yet I venture not too many as otherwise ASRock would have been aware of it and had the "specs' rolled into the initial first BIOS release.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 5:31am
Just a follow up.

Nowhere on ASRocks entire site does it show these CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 sticks, in ANY compatibility list for any motherboard. Old or new.

http://www.google.com/search?q=CMX8GX3M2A1600C9+site%3Aasrock.com" rel="nofollow - https://www.google.com/search?q=CMX8GX3M2A1600C9+site%3Aasrock.com

Indication of probably not many sold. That doesn't mean they won't work, just that ASRock isn't/wasn't aware of them.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 5:39am
And please. I am not an apologist on ASRocks behalf.

To the contrary. Read some of previous posts and you'll see I call 'em like I see 'em. Good, bad, or indifferent.


Big smile There. I now feel much better concerning my posts in this particular Thread.


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 11:22am
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:

If you'd like, can you put some CPU-z screenshots of the Memory and SPD tabs for BOTH sticks please.


Seconded. Unless you've set your RAM to run @ 1333 MHz manually, it's possible that BIOS is for some reason or another using the wrong settings for your sticks. This includes timings and voltages, so make sure to show/list also your RAM voltage. Knowing the CPU-NB voltage wouldn't hurt either.


-------------
Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 5:03pm
Dear Wardog, Petrolhead,
 
First of all I would like to apology to AsRock myself. I don't think you (Wardog) are an apologist to AsRock .
 
If I bought some month ago AsRock and not Gygabite (like my previous Intel Chipset) or MSI is because for my previous builds, when I was a teenager, I always sticked to AsRock. When I built the Intel chipset brand-new PC 5 years ago I gave my computer at that time to my mother. Well, that computer, an AMD chipset on AsRock (I don't remember the CPU / Chipset), is still alive, it's almost 10years old. AsRock never defaulted on me up to today, unless my RAM is bad, in which cas they never ever defaulted on me for more than 15 years.
 
If I was grumpy, it's just that I'm a bit upset for the moment :)
 
Anyway, that's not the point. Said this now I equally feel better towards AsRock :)
 
 
I thought that all AM3+ Motherboards set RAM frequency at default @ 1333mhz and in order to "unleash" 1600mhz you need to manually overclock your RAM through the BIOS. I thought it was normal actually that the ram was set @ 1333mhz... In fact, if you check for example MSI 970 Gaming, you see that everything that is less or equal to 1333mhz is not marked as Overclock while everything that is marked equal or more than 1600mhz is marked as Overclock.
 
 
Well, if you tell me it's not normal, then you're providing me some hope about that further stability.
 
 
The reason why I actually didn't change the RAM when I bought the Fatal1ty is that Corsair says it's compatible with AM3+ chipsets. It's not pointing specifically the AsRock Fatal1ty unlike Kingston that says the HyperX Fury HX318C10FRK2/8 is compatible with this specific MoBo.
 
 
 
The Kingston will be arriving on Friday. I can provide you already this night the CPU-Z printscreens of the Corsair. Maximum on Saturday late evening I will provide the ones with the Kingston.
 
Petrolhead, as mentioned uphere, I didn't set manually the RAM to 1333mhz. When you're asking for timing and voltage they are present on CPU-Z SPD. Are you requiring the printscreens from somewhere else?
 
What is the CPU/NB voltage? It is present in F-Stream so I'll be able to provide you a printscreen this late evening, but no clue on how to read the figure...
 


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 5:52pm
Most memory will "Default' to the JEDEC Standard of 1333 on initially installing them. That is to ensure that they will boot right away on nearly all current computer systems. It is then to the User to configure them up to their advertised speed.

Let me and PetrolHead have a look see at those screenshots. It may be something as simple as guiding you to set them manually to 1600. Wouldn't that be nice ........


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 6:00pm
Hmmm, in mulling this over I'm wondering if the XMP Profile on your admittedly older sticks conform to the minimum XMP 1.2 Profiles your board allows.

YEA! Screenshots .... Please. Those will speak volumes to all this.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2016 at 6:11pm
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:


Let me and PetrolHead have a look see at those screenshots. It may be something as simple as guiding you to set them manually to 1600. Wouldn't that be nice ........
 
Haha, if that's the problem, that wouldn't be just nice, that would be great!
 
I'll provide you the printscreens around 21h00 / 22h00!
 
Thank you for your help!


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 1:22am
Dear Wardog, Petrolhead,
 
Here are the printscreens... It looks there is something strange about the RAM.
 
Should be a 1600mhz like it is mentionned in the "part number" of the SPD section.
 
It is stated as 1333mhz in the BIOS and here in CPUZ I see max bandwith 667Mhz... Is this normal?
 
Anyway I let you check all the things you asked
 
http://imgur.com/a/0iwM5" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/a/0iwM5
 
Can you see the printscreens?


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 2:16am
It's DDR memory. Dual Data Rate, so dual of 800 is 1600. 1600/800

That it shows 1333/667 is again the JEDEC Default that it automatically sets to. We'll get to changing this in a sec .....

-----
-----

Um, your Core Voltage is terribly high for the Clock Speed displayed. Too high!

Have you been in the BIOS making changes, and the truth here please, as your answer matters greatly and much that will follow is dependent on the answer you give.


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 2:40am
Thank you for the screenshots. Your RAM timing values seem to be okay, but for some reason your RAM voltage is higher than it's supposed to be for that speed. You might want to set it to 1.5 V at first to make sure it's not causing the issues you're experiencing. The core voltage displayed by CPU-Z does also seem a bit high. It should be closer to 1.375 V at 4 GHz. F-Stream does show it to be 1.376 V, so the question is which one is closer to the truth? If you run, say, HWMonitor, how much does the voltage fluctuate?


-------------
Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 3:00am
I never touched anything, neither in the Bios or in FStream :s
 
I will make the hwmonitor test in a few moments, about 30-45m. Need to put the kids at sleep!


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 3:58am
Hello PetrolHead,
 
 
 
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:

Thank you for the screenshots. Your RAM timing values seem to be okay, but for some reason your RAM voltage is higher than it's supposed to be for that speed. You might want to set it to 1.5 V at first to make sure it's not causing the issues you're experiencing.
 
Done that through the Bios (1.65V was actually the voltage from the Auto setting)
 
 
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:

The core voltage displayed by CPU-Z does also seem a bit high. It should be closer to 1.375 V at 4 GHz. F-Stream does show it to be 1.376 V, so the question is which one is closer to the truth? If you run, say, HWMonitor, how much does the voltage fluctuate?
 
 
So here are the test HWMonitor results after about 5minutes
 
http://imgur.com/vhsExDD" rel="nofollow -


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 4:51am
Ok, I set the RAM to 1.5V through the BIOS and it's confirmed by FStream.
 
 
 
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:

It's DDR memory. Dual Data Rate, so dual of 800 is 1600. 1600/800

That it shows 1333/667 is again the JEDEC Default that it automatically sets to. We'll get to changing this in a sec .....
 
 
Do you want me to set the RAM at 1600mhz in the BIOS? If so, shouldn't it need to go back at 1.65V instead of staying at 1.5V?
 
 
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:


Um, your Core Voltage is terribly high for the Clock Speed displayed. Too high!

Have you been in the BIOS making changes, and the truth here please, as your answer matters greatly and much that will follow is dependent on the answer you give.
 
As said never touched anything. Everything was set on Auto on OC Tweaker. The only non Auto thing is RAM voltage set @ 1.5V instead of Auto (1.65V).
 
Am I meant to do anything with the Core Voltage?


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 5:13am
Guys,
 
 
I wanted to check again the HWMonitor and I'm rather surprised the CPU Voltage is completely different than the one I experienced when the Ram was at 1.65V
 
http://imgur.com/a/ve8sD" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/a/ve8sD
 
 
While before it was oscillating between 0.88 and 1.408 (most of the time it was @ 0.88), now the spread between the Min the Max is very tight.
 
Can this be related to the fact the RAM voltage has been changed?


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 7:01am
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:


Do you want me to set the RAM at 1600mhz in the BIOS? If so, shouldn't it need to go back at 1.65V instead of staying at 1.5V?

Core voltage looks lots better. Reasonable.

I believe I'm going to lead you straight here ...... I'm using the online manual, sigh

First, lets reset your BIOS back to all defaults...
BIOS > Exit tab > choose "Load UEFI Defaults" save and reboot right back into the BIOS, then the Exit tab again, then "Save Changes and Exit, then right back into the BIOS. I know, PITA

OK, let's set the sticks to their 1600Mhz XMP Profile.

BIOS > OC Tweaker tab > and here on your board I believe you want to select "DRAM Timing Configuration" , and you should now be presented with an option to change to an XMP Profile.

That's all you need to do is select an XMP Profile, the save and reboot. Don't muss nor fuss with anything else at this point. After selecting the XMP and rebooting go right back into the BIOS to check that your sticks are running at 1600.

Again, doing this in a forum sucks, post back please what you find.


edit: OK, not PK


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 7:07am
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:

After selecting the XMP and rebooting go right back into the BIOS to check that your sticks are running at 1600.


And check that DRAM Voltage is at 1.65v, which is proper for these sticks at 1600.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 4:57pm
Hi Wardog,
 
Ok thank you, I'll follow the procedure this evening and will keep you posted.
 
 
Do you need something else than the standard CPUZ, HWM & FStream printscreens?


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 5:37pm
No, I don't. But maybe PetrolHead has.

Let us know how it goes.

If it doesn't behave setting them via XMP we can take a stab at entering the specs in manually.

Have a good day at work


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 7:57pm
Thank you for posting the pics.

Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Can this be related to the fact the RAM voltage has been changed?


If you look at the recorded clock speeds, you'll see a big difference there too. I wouldn't expect changing RAM voltage to cause you CPU to run at 4 GHz most of the time. It's likely due to your computer doing something that prevents it from accessing those lower performance states.

Hmm. Your AUXTIN temperature seems a bit high if we assume that it's the PSU's temperature sensor and that it's working properly. Are you able to check if the PSU fan is working and if yes, is the air that it's blowing out warm?

P.S. CPU-Z, HWM and FSTREAM info will do just fine, at least for now.


-------------
Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: WKjun
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 8:26pm
Without reading through the whole four pages, I would like to suggest AMD Radeon RAM Kits. Since the memory controller is within the (AMD) CPU, why not use AMD RAM?
I am aware that most QVLs are dated and they surely concentrate these tests to the Intel field, but even though Radeon kits were not in those lists, I never had problems.
 
A general recommendation is to check the "sub-timings". For example if a kit has CL10-11-11-30, by sub-timings I mean all the others.
I often see mainboards not reading out SPD correctly. Not even if XMP or AMP is being used! A great tool to read nearly all the timings is AIDA64. Even AMD Overdrive will do most of them. These sub-timings tend to be most important for long-time stability when running at specification limits.
 
And remember using memory above 2133 MHz (theoretically 2200 MHz) is no good at AM3(+). OC'ing the CPU-NB can be an incidious matter and has nearly no performance impact, especially on memory side.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 12:46am
Ok, so let's go step by step. Thank you all for your feedbacks.
 
--> Wardog:
 
My Kingston RAM arrived and I'm planning to fit it straight away rather than running through the entire BIOS process. To recall the RAM I picked up are:
- 1866Mhz 10-11-10 @ 1.5V
 
 
Am I right doing so this evening?
 
- Change RAM sticks
- Reset UEFI, reboot
- Save and exit, reboot
- Select XMP, reboot
- Check if RAM is set @ 1866Mhz and 1.5V. If yes done, if not, set them @ 1866Mhz and 1.5V
 
 
 
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:


If you look at the recorded clock speeds, you'll see a big difference there too. I wouldn't expect changing RAM voltage to cause you CPU to run at 4 GHz most of the time. It's likely due to your computer doing something that prevents it from accessing those lower performance states.

Is there something I can do to this?
 
 
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:


Hmm. Your AUXTIN temperature seems a bit high if we assume that it's the PSU's temperature sensor and that it's working properly. Are you able to check if the PSU fan is working and if yes, is the air that it's blowing out warm?
 
Ok, I'll check and tell you this evening.
 
 
Originally posted by WKjun WKjun wrote:

Without reading through the whole four pages, I would like to suggest AMD Radeon RAM Kits. Since the memory controller is within the (AMD) CPU, why not use AMD RAM?
 
 
I would have loved to, but rather difficult to find them in Europe.
 
 
Originally posted by WKjun WKjun wrote:

A general recommendation is to check the "sub-timings". For example if a kit has CL10-11-11-30, by sub-timings I mean all the others.
I often see mainboards not reading out SPD correctly. Not even if XMP or AMP is being used! A great tool to read nearly all the timings is AIDA64. Even AMD Overdrive will do most of them. These sub-timings tend to be most important for long-time stability when running at specification limits.
 
Ok, Is there a way to check and modify timings?
 
 
 
Originally posted by WKjun WKjun wrote:

And remember using memory above 2133 MHz (theoretically 2200 MHz) is no good at AM3(+).
 
I'm not planning to O/C anything, no worries on this side ;)


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 4:42am
Hi Wardog,
 
I did as you suggested and everything went fine. XMP is enabled, they are set as "Dual Channel", voltage and Frequency got correct on Auto.
 
Strangely, HyperX don't seem to function. XMP option was not present, not able to put them at 1.5V for 1866mhz, Bios failing to boot, set as "Single Channel" in CPU-Z...
 
So in the End those Corsair seem to fit the MoBo better than those Kingston I will return ASAP...
 
 
PertolHead,
 
Here are the printscreens.
 
http://imgur.com/a/qGEDp" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/a/qGEDp
 
Concerning the PSU, yes the fan is turning and the airflow is rather cool. But what is the AUXIN? Isn't it the chipset? Maybe the CPU needs some extra Thermal glue...
 
 
 
Finally, WKjun, the latency figures fit the Memory tabs according to CPU-Z, unless it is not reliable.
 
 
 
I'm stuck... Didn't have any BSOD since the one when I was installing Drivers. Maybe the fact of having the RAM more in line with what it should be is just what was needed... However I don't shout victory so quickly. Computer went previously fine for several weeks, then loads of BSOD. Then I fix something (like Bitdefender), seem to be OK for few weeks, then again loads of crashes. Now we did that, and I fear it will start again to BSOD again in a few weeks.
 
I'm happy Voltage doesn't seem to pike even though it looks high but this AUXIN and CPU clock staying at max worry me...


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 4:48am
Originally posted by WKjun WKjun wrote:

A general recommendation is to check the "sub-timings". For example if a kit has CL10-11-11-30, by sub-timings I mean all the others.
I often see mainboards not reading out SPD correctly. Not even if XMP or AMP is being used! A great tool to read nearly all the timings is AIDA64. Even AMD Overdrive will do most of them. These sub-timings tend to be most important for long-time stability when running at specification limits.


This is a good point. On the 970M Pro3 I see the rest of the timings as well as the read SPD values for them when I go and set the values manually. Thing is, I can't even set all values to what they're supposed to be (tRCF at least is one of these), but it doesn't seem to matter on my system.

dinin70, I suggest you do as WKjun suggested and use either AIDA64, AMD Overdrive or the BIOS/UEFI to check the rest of the timings. CPU-Z doesn't show all timing values, unfortunately.
 
Quote And remember using memory above 2133 MHz (theoretically 2200 MHz) is no good at AM3(+). OC'ing the CPU-NB can be an incidious matter and has nearly no performance impact, especially on memory side.


That's not a huge surprise considering everything above 1866 MHz is an OC if the motherboard has more than two memory slots in total, everything above 1600 MHz is an OC if there are four slots and two or four memory modules, and everything above 1333 MHz is an OC if any of those modules are anything other than single rank.


-------------
Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 6:28am
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Concerning the PSU, yes the fan is turning and the airflow is rather cool. But what is the AUXIN? Isn't it the chipset? Maybe the CPU needs some extra Thermal glue...


It's the AUXTIN (notice the T), and it means auxiliary temperature index. It's basically just a label that the program has assigned some sensor by what it thinks it is. It's supposed to be the PSU temperature sensor, but there may not even be one. If the airflow is rather cool, then I doubt those numbers are correct. The AUXTIN value on my system is 25 C +- 1 C no matter what I do, and the airflow coming from the PSU is cool.

The chipset (NB) is likely SYSTIN, CPUTIN is the socket and TMPIN3 is a mystery to me.

About the thermal "glue", you should have the least amount possible of it between the CPU and the cooler. This is because it doesn't conduct heat very well (compared to aluminium or copper, at least). The reason it is used at all is because it conducts heat a lot better than air, which is what you'd otherwise have between the CPU and the heatsink, trapped in the small imperfections of the surfaces. An _extra_ layer of thermal glue will thus make your CPU run hotter if the current one is fine. A _new_ layer may make it run cooler, if the current layer is not fine. If you think there's a problem with your CPU (package) temperatures, you can find a lot of instructions online about how to apply the so called TIM between the CPU and the heatsink. I personally prefer to spread a very thin layer on the CPU (or the heatsinki, depending on which one has a smaller surface area). Many people swear by the "pea method" or "rice grain method", however.

Regarding the temperatures, what is you computer doing when it reaches 53 C on the socket as well as the CPU? Was your system idle when you took a printscreen of this? If yes, do you have a lot of "bloatware" or other stuff that runs on startup?


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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 11:00am
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Hi Wardog,
 
I did as you suggested and everything went fine. XMP is enabled, they are set as "Dual Channel", voltage and Frequency got correct on Auto.
 
Strangely, HyperX don't seem to function. XMP option was not present, not able to put them at 1.5V for 1866mhz, Bios failing to boot, set as "Single Channel" in CPU-Z...
 
So in the End those Corsair seem to fit the MoBo better than those Kingston I will return ASAP...


Ok, great! So your original Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 memory is running fine now?

That is good news.

Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Haha, if that's the problem, that wouldn't be just nice, that would be great!


Indeed it is.



Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 11:47am
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:

If you think there's a problem with your CPU (package) temperatures, you can find a lot of instructions online about how to apply the so called TIM between the CPU and the heatsink. I personally prefer to spread a very thin layer on the CPU (or the heatsinki, depending on which one has a smaller surface area). Many people swear by the "pea method" or "rice grain method", however.


Count me as one of the blob folks.

Back in the old "CPUs ran hotter than hell' days I became a convert. IMO, in MY opinion and experiences, spreading it prior to fitting sometimes allows for air pockets to form in the paste/TIM between the processor and sink when the sink is secured.

While the round blob method you do need to be careful in fitting and securing, as the blob is pressed outwards no air pockets will form as it is continually coursing towards the outer periphery. Carfeful as you apply the sink that you apply even and level pressure while lowering the sink.

My 2cents anyways.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:


Regarding the temperatures, what is you computer doing when it reaches 53 C on the socket as well as the CPU? Was your system idle when you took a printscreen of this? If yes, do you have a lot of "bloatware" or other stuff that runs on startup?
 
 
Hi Petrolhead. To be honest nothing. It rebooted like 20 times since I was trying to make the RAM work (the Kingston). Finally had to place again the Corsair. So except this multiple rebooting, nothing special.
 
This morning it's turning between 39-44°
 
The PC is 15cm from a rather big Heater (Radiator).
 
 
 
Anyway I see from F Stream that the target temperature is 45.
 
 
I hadn't in mind 53C for an AMD was a big figure.
 
 
This evening I will check the latencies.
 
 
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:



Ok, great! So your original Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 memory is running fine now?

That is good news.

 
It looks so :D
 
Thank you very much!


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 4:52pm
Concerning the CPU FAN I don't know if there is something wrong... Indeed this morning HWMonitor didn't register any RPM from the CPU FAN (I didn't check if the Fan was turning or not), which makes sense since the temp didn't exceed 45C.
 
Yesterday, when the CPU was over 50C, the HWM was registering only punctual rotations from the CPU Fan. If the Target Temp in F-Stream is set @ 45C, isn't the CPU Fan meant to rotate as long as the CPU Temp doesn't reach 45?
 
For example my Graphic Card Fans (as long as Trixx is open) comply with the targeted Temp.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 8:26pm
Maybe I screwed up with the thermal paste... Going to check that this evening. Or maybe my TX3 Evo isn't powerful enough even though I doubt it.
 
Do you recommend the Noctua NH D14? Or the CoolerMaster TX3 is enough?
 
I have a Antec Twelve Hundred with 6 fans, so normally I shouldn't have airflow problems.
 
My PSU is a Corsair TX750W which is rather well rated through the internet so I guess I'm safe on this side equally.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2016 at 5:13pm
If it's the Hyper TX3 with wire fan securements you should be good

http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-tx3-with-fan-bracket/" rel="nofollow - http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-tx3-with-fan-bracket/

That Noctua NH D14 is, IMO, overkill unless you plan on pushing some serious voltage into the CPU. That, and I forget what the maximum HS/F weight safely allowed is on AMD motherboards but I'm guessing the D14 comes close, if not over.


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2016 at 8:14pm
Apologies for the OT to everyone.

Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:


Count me as one of the blob folks.

Back in the old "CPUs ran hotter than hell' days I became a convert. IMO, in MY opinion and experiences, spreading it prior to fitting sometimes allows for air pockets to form in the paste/TIM between the processor and sink when the sink is secured.

While the round blob method you do need to be careful in fitting and securing, as the blob is pressed outwards no air pockets will form as it is continually coursing towards the outer periphery. Carfeful as you apply the sink that you apply even and level pressure while lowering the sink.

My 2cents anyways.


It's true that spreading it prior to fitting has the potential to form air pockets in the TIM layer. The thing about the blob method, however,  is that there's really no way of covering the whole heatspreader or the bottom of the sink without having "too much" of it. This means there will in effect be large air pockets in each corner of the heatspreader. I noticed this when I tried to follow Noctua's instructions on applying the TIM and then had to re-install the heatsink; the pea-sized TIM blob had spread to a pancake the size of a large coin, but hadn't even reached the nearest edges of the heatspreader. Of course the most important thing is to get a proper TIM layer over the die, which is a lot smaller than the heatspreader, and this is what the method had achieved. I don't know if getting a TIM layer on the rest of the heatspreader has a noticeable effect on temperatures, but my OCD says that's the way to do it. ;)

The bottom line in any case is that as long as the temperatures stay in check, it doesn't really matter which method has been used.


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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2016 at 8:32pm
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Hi Petrolhead. To be honest nothing. It rebooted like 20 times since I was trying to make the RAM work (the Kingston). Finally had to place again the Corsair. So except this multiple rebooting, nothing special.
 
This morning it's turning between 39-44°
 
The PC is 15cm from a rather big Heater (Radiator).
 
In that case I think the temperatures might be a bit high and you might want to try moving the case further away from the radiator before you do anything else. The CPU temperature isn't really meaningful below 45 C and even then it's not necessarily a proper temperature due to the way AMD CPUs determine the temperature. As long as the readings in HWMonitor stay below 62 C, you should be fine when it comes to stability. If you see anything close to that without overclocking and running something like Prime95, then you probable have an issue with cooling.

The socket temperature (CPUTIN) should be reasonably reliable at least at low temperatures, and that's the one that worries me the most. If you're not doing anything much, then ideally you should be seeing temperatures nearer 30 C when idle - although maybe the FX CPU just makes the socket run a lot hotter than my Phenom II. You should check if the CPU compatibility list for your motherboard specifies the need to use a top-down blowing CPU cooler with your FX CPU. If it does, then you should find a way to provide airflow to the socket, possibly with a spot fan.

Oh, and concerning the rpm readings in HWMonitor or other programs, they may not be correct at all. However, if you've set the target temp in F-Stream to 45 C, I'd expect the fan to spin only at the speed that is needed to keep that temperature. If you're idling, then the speed may indeed be zero (and this might at least partially explain the socket temperature). I'm just guessing here, though, since I've no experience in using F-Stream. All my fan speeds are set in BIOS, and I have them on full all the time... You could try lowering the target temperature in F-Stream and seeing what happens.


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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2016 at 11:13pm
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:


The bottom line in any case is that as long as the temperatures stay in check, it doesn't really matter which method has been used.


Couldn't agree more.

For perspective, which ever method is used, so long as the die that rests under the center of "lid' is covered with TIM on top you're good as that's the only part under the lid that makes direct contact. The outer edges of the "lid' rests atop a bead of non-heat conducting silicone.

Delidded AMD 8-Core Bulldozer Processor:
Delidded 8-core Bulldozer Module

Edited, added a couple " 's and one and for clarification purposes


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2016 at 11:26pm
Hi,

The heater probably doesn't help but I don't think it's the main reason. When I took the latest figures it was overnight when heaters are off.

When I'm running furmark on CPU it gets pretty quickly over 60° (less than 10seconds) and I prefer stopping before harming too much the CPU.

Obviously furmark is not representative of real conditions (8 cores running altogether at 100% is unlikely to happen), but yet I'm pretty sure there something wrong as you are all saying. Next week I'll be receiving the Noctua paste and I'll try to change that. I bought a manual front pannel fan controller (since I anyway need front USB because they are all broken on the Tower).

By the way, I have only Fan on the CoolerMaster: must the fan be looking upwards or downwards?

Furthermore Wardog I have the TX3 Evo (which is another product), what are those "safe brackets" you are mentionning? 

It is not fixed through "screws" but with the small  lever (if you see what I mean)



Anyway I would like to thank you already for your support. I hope the BSOD were caused by the RAM inconsistencies but yet I won't stay peace until I get that CPU cooler :)


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2016 at 11:45pm
Eh, we're having translation issues. Sorry for that.

Me: "wire fan securements"
You: "safe brackets"

Not brackets, but how the fans themselves are held onto with against the actual fins of the cooler. The wire fan "clips' that Thermalright are so famous for using.

The "Evo' model is a step up from the original Hyper TX3. So better yet!



Posted By: WKjun
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 6:46pm
CPU-Z shows just a vague overview of some of the SPD entries. AIDA64 tells you every profile and sub-timings as well. But I can't tell, if it reads them out without a licence (Demo). Don't get confused, as some timings may not be available in your BIOS and vice versa.
 
Availability of AMD RAM Kits is really few an far between in Europe. I am lucky to have 1-2 merchants in Austria. Amazon.de and co.uk should have them too. But compare the prices, as Amazon (Marketplace) often has ridiculously high prices.
 
http://geizhals.eu/?cat=ramddr3&asuch=&bpmax=&v=k&plz=&dist=&sort=p&xf=5830_UDIMM1~1126_AMD~5828_DDR3~5831_DIMM~1454_8192" rel="nofollow - http://geizhals.eu/?cat=ramddr3&asuch=&bpmax=&v=k&plz=&dist=&sort=p&xf=5830_UDIMM1~1126_AMD~5828_DDR3~5831_DIMM~1454_8192
 
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:

That's not a huge surprise considering everything above 1866 MHz is an OC if the motherboard has more than two memory slots in total, everything above 1600 MHz is an OC if there are four slots and two or four memory modules, and everything above 1333 MHz is an OC if any of those modules are anything other than single rank.
At least my Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 runs fine with 4 x 8GB Radeon RAM @ 2133 MHz. :)
2400 is useful and usable with APUs only.


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2016 at 11:08pm
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

When I'm running furmark on CPU it gets pretty quickly over 60° (less than 10seconds) and I prefer stopping before harming too much the CPU.


The CPU will start throttling or will even shut down before it is damaged, assuming the safeguards work as they should. 60 C isn't even close to the danger zone of physically harming your CPU, but the CPU can become unstable well before thermal throttling kicks in.

In any case, if you didn't even have the radiator on, then something's not right. You should at the very least try installing the CPU cooler again from scratch. Remove the CPU cooler, remove all of the old TIM, apply new TIM (read some tutorials on applying the TIM beforehand), reinstall the CPU cooler and see if the temperatures remain the same.

Quote By the way, I have only Fan on the CoolerMaster: must the fan be looking upwards or downwards?


I don't really know what upwards or downwards mean in this context. If you are using the TX3 Evo - or any other tower cooler - the fan should blow the air towards the back panel. This will increase airflow over the VRM section. You should also have a case fan on the back panel sucking hot air out of the case. If you get a top-down blowing CPU cooler, then, as the term suggests, the fan should be blowing air towards the motherboard.

Btw, the TX3 Evo you have doesn't seem to have an official recommended TDP, at least not on the manufacturer's website. Based on the weight and dimensions of the heatsink, as well as the maximum rpm of the 92 mm fan, I'd say it should be okay for 125 W TDP CPUs such as the one you have. However, under full load it may struggle with an octacore and you will likely see high socket temperatures unless you can direct airflow towards the socket.


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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2016 at 11:24pm
Originally posted by WKjun WKjun wrote:

At least my Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 runs fine with 4 x 8GB Radeon RAM @ 2133 MHz. :)
2400 is useful and usable with APUs only.


2133 MHz is a nice OC, considering the "stock" value is at best 1600 MHz with that many sticks, but I'd expect bumping the CPU-NB voltage a bit to be enough to get there. Unless it's required to get a CPU OC stable, it might not be worth the trouble though. Only a limited amount of applications outside benchmarking benefit from faster RAM and in most cases it doesn't matter whether your RAM is running @ 1333 MHz or @ 2400 MHz. If one is able to combine tighter timings with lower clock speeds, the clock speed matters even less.


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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2016 at 2:55am
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:


Btw, the TX3 Evo you have doesn't seem to have an official recommended TDP, at least not on the manufacturer's website.


I noticed that too, odd, as most other brands do.

I based my remarks of it as it's recommended down to the foot warmer, heat the earth, arctic ice shelf be damned, Ozone? What ozone?LOL ,  Socket 754 procs. And NewEgg reviews also.

Heck, if it can keep a Socket 754 processor cool ...... I thought to myself ... I still took at peek at the NewEgg reviews.


Posted By: WKjun
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2016 at 7:39am
Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:

2133 MHz is a nice OC, considering the "stock" value is at best 1600 MHz with that many sticks, but I'd expect bumping the CPU-NB voltage a bit to be enough to get there. Unless it's required to get a CPU OC stable, it might not be worth the trouble though. Only a limited amount of applications outside benchmarking benefit from faster RAM and in most cases it doesn't matter whether your RAM is running @ 1333 MHz or @ 2400 MHz. If one is able to combine tighter timings with lower clock speeds, the clock speed matters even less.
AMD's "stock" value is 1866 since the FX line of CPUs. Setting it to 2133 via AMP is hardly a big accomplishment, I think. ;)
Intel stuck at 1600 for a long time, pushing DDR4 instead.
Since the CPU-NB is 2200 on all high clocked FX CPUs, there is no need to raise voltage and/or speed of it. Not until RAM frequency gets above 2200 - it has to be risen equally or higher. Some of my machines ran for some time at 2400-2500 CPU-NB. One even at 2600. With enough juice, these strange effects like graphics anomalies occured very seldom, but they happen.
Mind that this counts for Vishera cores only. Zambezi didn't like to be pushed above stock, not even 10 MHz, regardless the voltage I've tried.
Many people say, RAM frequency should be favoured to timings. On AMD (FX) a good mixture is the goal. I am very happy with my Radeon RAM kits, running at 2133 / CL10-11-11-28-1T / 1.65V.


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2016 at 10:19am
Originally posted by WKjun WKjun wrote:

AMD's "stock" value is 1866 since the FX line of CPUs.


That's only true for FX CPUs if the motherboard has two available slots in total. If it has four, and even if you're only using two of them, then the stock value is 1600 MHz. If any of the used modules is dual rank, then the stock value is 1333 MHz. AMD's values are likely conservative, however.

Quote Many people say, RAM frequency should be favoured to timings.


In some cases this may be true. There are a lot of variables, however, such as: Intel or AMD, IGP or dedicated GPU, what is the used application and what sort of frequency and latency differences are on the table. For example in this test some applications clearly benefitted from faster memory, some applications didn't really care and for some the sweet spot was one of the slower settings.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7364/memory-scaling-on-haswell" rel="nofollow - http://www.anandtech.com/show/7364/memory-scaling-on-haswell


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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: WKjun
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2016 at 1:37am
Right:
http://support.amd.com/en-us/kb-articles/Pages/ddr3memoryfrequencyguide.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://support.amd.com/en-us/kb-articles/Pages/ddr3memoryfrequencyguide.aspx
I actually was surprised to find this, backing your statement. I've never used a board with fewer than 4 slots available and thought the low default frequency was because the modules were not read out correctly and/or for compatibility reasons generally. That it definetly depends on how many slots are available, seemed a bit illogical at first. But I think it has to do with the usual board (or CPU?) maker recommendation to fill the second slot of each channel first. In that case, the board acts and works just like a fully populated board, which less possibly runs higher speeds (and Command Rate 2T becomes default). That's why I always recommend filling out the first slots of each channel, to gain CMD Rate 1T and higher frequency.
Tks for the update! Clap
 
The andantech article reflects my memory of the general conclusion: "MHz Matters more than tCL" - except for some exceptions. Wink


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2016 at 5:09am
It seems weird that a motherboard manufacturer would suggest using a setup that might perform worse. I would instead expect the lower RAM speeds having to do with how much load is put on the IMC, but even in this case the effect of the total amount of available slots seems a bit odd.

And yes, the anandtech article's conclusion does somewhat reflect that general conclusion (although it does add "unless you compare over large MHz ranges"), but if you look at the measurements - and especially if you don't use an IGP - you'll see that the results are far less clear cut. A lot of the results show an insignificant performance differences between the whole range of MHz and CL, especially if you don't include the measurements that can be considered statistical outliers. Even in cases like WinRAR and the h264 HD benchmark, where the trend seems to be pretty clear, you may find that 1866 MHz CL 11 is as fast as 2666 MHz CL10, or that at 2666 MHz the latency doesn't seem to matter, at 2400 MHz lower is better but at 2800 MHz higher was better.

It occured to me that maybe there should be a separate thread for this discussion. Could one of the admins transfer at least these latest messages over to the OC Technical Discussion sub-forum into a new thread and name the thread accordingly, maybe "RAM Clock Speed and Latency"?


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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2016 at 6:27am
It's ALL about the generational advances concerning the iMC within the processor.

Look at that chart on "ddr3memoryfrequencyguide.aspx" linked above. Note it is placed under the heading "The memory controller." . From the bottom of the chart and up to the top, iMC advancements are very obvious.

And that we here dabble in all things AMD, we recognize that guide strictly as a reference but certainly not the rule.


Posted By: WKjun
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2016 at 4:50pm

Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:

It seems weird that a motherboard manufacturer would suggest using a setup that might perform worse."

It is weird! Maybe for the sake of compatibility?

For example, some excerpts of MB manuals:

970 Performance:
"Please install the memory module into DDR3_A2 and DDR3_B2 slots for the first priority."

Sabertooth 990FX R2.0:
"Recommended memory configurations"
Single Channel: DIMM_A2
Dual Channel: DIMM_A2 + DIMM_B2

At least at Auto, CMD Rate would most likely be 2T, forcing 1T to be unstable, depending on modules and speed set.



Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2016 at 6:21pm
Hi guys,
 
Some updates.
 
So I placed again the Cooler and in fact there was too much Thermal Paste. I cleaned it and installed the Noctua NH1 paste as recommended (3-4mm square blob). It allowed me gain some heat there. In fact temperature at boot are about 5° lower and it gets to 60° in much more time than before.
 
Anyway I'm rather upset about the TX3 Evo for two reasons:
 
1. it can only be placed upwards or downwards on the 970 Fatal1ty which is odd... In fact, in order to maximize, as you mentioned, the airflow, the fan should be blowing Front to Back. But it's not TX3 Evo problem, it's a Motherboard problem (see link)
http://imgur.com/k6x4eLr" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/k6x4eLr
 
2. I'm extremely puzzled... The fan is actually sucking air from the heatsink rather than blowing it inside the heatsink... My brother doesn't believe me when I'm saying this but it's the case... With my hand I can clearly feel air going out of the fan and a "sucking" effect from the other side of the heatsink... Should inverse the polarity of the fan but still the direction (up/down instead of front/back) is problematic...
 
... As such, in order to avoid this direction problem and maximize airflow by following Front to Back airflow I decided to invest in a Noctua NH U14S (smaller than the D15 that is way too big and a waste of money for a non yet overclocked CPU --> would like to push it up once all those problem disappear). In fact most of the AM3+ Cooler follow the direction provided by the Motherboard retention module (upside / downside on the Fatal1ty) while Noctua has its own retention module on the MotherBoard.
 
I hope gaining some cooling there again.
 
 
Secondly, the PSU on my mother's computer died, so I decided, rather than buying her a new one, I will give her mine and I bought a modular 650w seasonic for me since I'm literally INVADED by cables... That probably doesn't help at all regarding the cooling flow inside the Tower.
 
 
Third, PertolHead, you were surprised by the frequency of the CPU and the CPU Voltage running all the time @ max frequency / Voltage. It was actually caused by the power plan that I set on "F-Stream" (specific feature of the Falat1ty). As I switched it to the "recommended" Balanced Plan the Frequency variates as well as the Voltage according to the needs. For information ;)
 
 
Fourth. I still didn't have any BSOD which is for the moment a good sign. However, while playing Endless Space (CPU intensive, GPU absolutely not intensive) I suffered a freeze after 90 minutes, but not a simple freeze where nothing moved. My screen looked like this...
http://imgur.com/OhKM0xu" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/OhKM0xu
 
It's not the first time it happens. Any clue?


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2016 at 10:37pm
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

However, while playing Endless Space (CPU intensive, GPU absolutely not intensive) I suffered a freeze after 90 minutes, but not a simple freeze where nothing moved. My screen looked like this...
http://imgur.com/OhKM0xu" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/OhKM0xu
 
It's not the first time it happens. Any clue?


Your video card causing that image. I suggest you check the temps of the GPU. Shearing and tearing are card related.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2016 at 11:14pm
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:


Anyway I'm rather upset about the TX3 Evo for two reasons:
 
1. it can only be placed upwards or downwards on the 970 Fatal1ty which is odd... In fact, in order to maximize, as you mentioned, the airflow, the fan should be blowing Front to Back. But it's not TX3 Evo problem, it's a Motherboard problem (see link)
http://imgur.com/k6x4eLr" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/k6x4eLr

Say what???? You're blaming the motherboard for you own not reading the manual?

WTF does everyone jump on the motherboard right off the bat? Dude, I don't and haven't owned the TX3 EVO and it took me all of 1 minute on Google to disprove your statement. Unbelievable! 1 minute!!

It indeed does fit and allow the fins/fan to orient towards the rear of the case. It takes using your brain and eyes to read the manual that comes with it. That's it. Plain and simple. It is not and ASRock problem. It is not a CoolerMaster problem. It's your problem.

Begin watching at 9:30 into the below video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtxnYb1gl-w


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 12:16am
I may be a little bit sorry for posting the above rant, a LITTLE bit, but jeepers man ..........

We just can not go through life so rapidly blaming others if only due to the faults of our own.


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 12:19am
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:


Anyway I'm rather upset about the TX3 Evo for two reasons:
 
1. it can only be placed upwards or downwards on the 970 Fatal1ty which is odd... In fact, in order to maximize, as you mentioned, the airflow, the fan should be blowing Front to Back. But it's not TX3 Evo problem, it's a Motherboard problem (see link)
http://imgur.com/k6x4eLr" rel="nofollow - http://imgur.com/k6x4eLr


According to the picture the cooler mountings are exactly the same they should be on an AM3+ motherboard. So, should this be a motherboard problem, then the problem is shared across ALL AM3+ motherboards that adhere to the standard setup for the cooler mountings. Also, according to the picture and the pictures I can find of TX3 Evo, a correct installation will in fact have the fan blowing air either towards the back panel (towards the VRM heatsink with the text "Performance" on it) or away from it. Thus, I'll have to agree with wardog and assume it's just incorrectly installed.

Quote 2. I'm extremely puzzled... The fan is actually sucking air from the heatsink rather than blowing it inside the heatsink... My brother doesn't believe me when I'm saying this but it's the case... With my hand I can clearly feel air going out of the fan and a "sucking" effect from the other side of the heatsink... Should inverse the polarity of the fan but still the direction (up/down instead of front/back) is problematic...


This doesn't have much of an effect in cooling the heatsink, but it does have an effect on the cooling of the VRM section. If the fan is a "sucker" then you need to place it on the side that's closer to the back panel.


-------------
Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 1:28am
Indeed, looks like I could have done more research even though I did on other forums...
Thank you for the link but WOW. If I speak like this to my direct reports a single time despite all the questions I answered to 100 times and the provided trainings I would be insta-fired
 
Anyway I would like to thank you all for all your help. I believe there is nothing much that can be done.
 
For the sake of brining an additional stone to the problem resolution I will keep you updated.
 
Best regards! 
 
 


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 2:16am
And by the way in fact I didn't activate Sapphire Trixx and the graphic cards activate fans more quickly only when Trixx is open. Probably there's something that can be done somewhere else (bios, or amd evolved), I'll check that later.


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 6:45am
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Thank you for the link but WOW. If I speak like this to my direct reports a single time despite all the questions I answered to 100 times and the provided trainings I would be insta-fired


Just so that there's no confusion: Me, wardog and WKjun are (AFAIK, at least) just normal forum members, just like you. We do not represent the official tech support, nor are we paid to give any sort of advice here. This is why none of us live in fear of getting insta-fired, we only fear the wrath of forum moderators. ;)

The advice we have tried to give is based on our own experiences and while it sometimes may be helpful, if you want the official ASRock tech support to comment on your case, your best bet is to send them a message through the form on their website (http://event.asrock.com/tsd.asp). Sure, the official tech support also reads these forums, but the user ASRock_TSD has so far averaged 0.22 posts per day, which says something about the chances you have of reaching them through the forum.

It's the same thing on other manufacturer's forums. People post and expect to get an official answer, when in fact the forum is more about building a community where users of a certain brand can share experiences and help each other. Sporadic help from the official tech support is just a bonus feature.


-------------
Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: PetrolHead
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 6:49am
Maybe we should always start with a disclaimer. "I am not official tech support. I am in no way responsible for any damages or hurt feelings that might result from following my advice..." ;)


-------------
Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 10:11am
Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:


Thank you for the link but WOW. If I speak like this to my direct reports a single time despite all the questions I answered to 100 times and the provided trainings I would be insta-fired

dinin70, as PetrolHead stated, there are only two Moderators here, Zaltar and parec, that I fear while posting. I am not in any way associated with ASRock, yet PetrolHead and us others here post willingly, from experience, and maybe painfully, truthfully.

Me being me, I do sometimes post when I shouldn't. We're adults here and should have thick skin by now for as long as the internet has existed and the differing folks who post and or communicate using it. The nature of the beast.

But it gets tiring when I see folks turn on a dime and lay blame on their hardware, ASRock in this instance.

AM3(+) is so standardized that were a manufacturer, CoolerMaster in this instance, offer a product that goes so very far from the mark as to offer a cooler, your TX3 EVO, that will not mount and push hot air towards the exhaust fan but instead distribute it INSIDE the case is just ludicrous.

Sometimes we just need to stop and take inventory of what we're looking at that is confounding us and not blame the product but instead conclude that it is fact us that is us ourselves who is at error. Too, what would your Superior have said when presented with that incorrect logic? He's a Superior because of his experience.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 10:51am
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:

He's a Superior because of his experience.


Allow me to retract that statement as I have had Superiors that had no business other than his just graduated college management classes(ie: absolutely no real world experience at managing), never mind no experience with nor knowledge of the product being produced.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 3:53pm
Hehe. Sure, you are really right. When I go through this forum I passed time whining on AsRock. I can understand your frustration when noobs complain rather than being constructive. You spend your free time helping noobs that are angry and childish. When they complain about a problem they probably created themselves.
 
However I never expected an official answer. And about that Superior statement well.. I'm myself a manager as I mentioned, and Jesus! How many times I would have loved speaking like to this to my direct reports... But yeah. I'm getting paid for my job, so I can retain me... ;)
 
Anyway, it's not important. What is important is that I learned a lot in one topic, more than the 20 other topics I opened on this matter! I would like to thank you about that.
 
And there's another thing. For once since years I'm back in the position where I'm the one that lacks experience and that seeks help from the "manager". It's rather instructive to switch the position once :) Next time, when I'll start to see angryness rising in me after a stupid question, I'll say to myself: Remember when you were whining about asrock! :)
 
I'll provide a conclusive remark about all this hardware issues "bsod, heat, freeze" in a few days since I hate posts where you cannot see if the thing functioned or not.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2016 at 5:00pm
Good luck and keep us posted.


Posted By: dinin70
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 9:05pm
Dear Wardog, Petrolhead.
 
It is now almost 1 month since I changed the RAM settings: activating XMP (that was naturally not activated on the MB), set everything to default (Voltage was not in line with frequency (Bios Setup)).
 
Since that day, no more BSOD, no more Freezes.
 
By the Way, the Kingston RAM was incompatible with the MB despite what Kingston said. Default setting in the BIOS was not in coherent with RAM settings and XMP couldn't be activated.
 
For me, this post can be marked as "Solved"!
 
Thank you all for your great support and patience :)


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 11:13pm
Hurray!

And please accept my humble apology for my blowing a gasket here.



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