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Mobo+CPU upgrade No Post+Blackscreen

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Category: Technical Support
Forum Name: Intel Motherboards
Forum Description: Question about ASRock Intel Motherboards
URL: https://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3640
Printed Date: 05 Feb 2025 at 3:42pm
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Topic: Mobo+CPU upgrade No Post+Blackscreen
Posted By: Phil86
Subject: Mobo+CPU upgrade No Post+Blackscreen
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 9:34am
" rel="nofollow - Hello everyone,

Today i upgraded my Rig from MSI970A-G46+FX6350 to a ASRock Fatal1ty Z170+i56600k.
Other Speccs;

750W PSU
2xKingston Hyperbeast 1600Mhz DDR3 8Gb
CPU Cooler: Coolermaster V8 Vapor
Samsung Evo 250Gb SSD
Seagate Barracuda 1Tb HDD
Raedon R9 280x 3Gb
Windows 10

After i was done with the reassembly of the components i turned the System on and it went off after half a second then it reboots and all LEDs, FANs and visible Components are running.
There is no Post, My Monitor is not recieving a Video Signal and enters Sleep Mode.
But the Components keep running until i do a Hard reboot/shutdown.
Gotta say the CPU Cooler sounds a little different from.the previous Setup.

I have so far, reassembled everything to see if all the Pins and Connectors are correctly in place and have a tight fit.
Reapplied thermal paste (using Coolermaster IC 1V).
Reset the CMOS Battery.
Started booting in secondary BIOS (May be important to mention that in both cases the LED was a solid constant red).
Tried plugging in VGA Monitor instead of HDMI.
Tried onboard Video plugins.

I dont have a second CPU Cooler at hand atm so i dont know, the V8 is HUGE and a Beast. The split second reboot at start makes me wonder if its a Power Supply issue,but then again it wouldnt run stable afterwards would it?
And one additional question; Does it matter wether i plug the CPU Fan into CPU_FAN1 or2??
I have one Pin Connector for USB_Card Reader plugged into one of the two USB2.0 recievers on the Mobo, thats basically the only thing im not sure with.
And by now i tripple checked ALL the Pins for PWR, REset etc are correctly in place.

Please id be glad for ANY suggestions here because i cant think of anything else that might be the cause.

Dear God let it not be broken :D.

Greetings,

Phil

Edit: Forgot to mention that eventhough the pins are all in their correct place, the Reset Button does not work.



Replies:
Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 12:15pm
Originally posted by Phil86 Phil86 wrote:

" rel="nofollow - Hello everyone,

Today i upgraded my Rig from MSI970A-G46+FX6350 to a ASRock Fatal1ty Z170+i56600k.
Other Speccs;

750W PSU
2xKingston Hyperbeast 1600Mhz DDR3 8Gb
CPU Cooler: Coolermaster V8 Vapor
Samsung Evo 250Gb SSD
Seagate Barracuda 1Tb HDD
Raedon R9 280x 3Gb
Windows 10

After i was done with the reassembly of the components i turned the System on and it went off after half a second then it reboots and all LEDs, FANs and visible Components are running.
There is no Post, My Monitor is not recieving a Video Signal and enters Sleep Mode.
But the Components keep running until i do a Hard reboot/shutdown.
Gotta say the CPU Cooler sounds a little different from.the previous Setup.

I have so far, reassembled everything to see if all the Pins and Connectors are correctly in place and have a tight fit.
Reapplied thermal paste (using Coolermaster IC 1V).
Reset the CMOS Battery.
Started booting in secondary BIOS (May be important to mention that in both cases the LED was a solid constant red).
Tried plugging in VGA Monitor instead of HDMI.
Tried onboard Video plugins.

I dont have a second CPU Cooler at hand atm so i dont know, the V8 is HUGE and a Beast. The split second reboot at start makes me wonder if its a Power Supply issue,but then again it wouldnt run stable afterwards would it?
And one additional question; Does it matter wether i plug the CPU Fan into CPU_FAN1 or2??
I have one Pin Connector for USB_Card Reader plugged into one of the two USB2.0 recievers on the Mobo, thats basically the only thing im not sure with.
And by now i tripple checked ALL the Pins for PWR, REset etc are correctly in place.

Please id be glad for ANY suggestions here because i cant think of anything else that might be the cause.

Dear God let it not be broken :D.

Greetings,

Phil

Edit: Forgot to mention that eventhough the pins are all in their correct place, the Reset Button does not work.


So let me be sure this is right. You simply moved your Windows 10 installation/drive  from an AMD chipset board and processor system, to an Intel chipset board and processor system. That is what it sounds like from your description.

The chances of your Windows 10 installation on an AMD system booting on an Intel system is very small, or none.

What was the SATA mode set to on the AMD board?

While all you told us was ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 as the board you have, and there are six different ASRock Z170 boards with "ASRock Fatal1ty Z170" as part of the name model name, so we have no idea what board you have.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/index.asp" rel="nofollow - http://www.asrock.com/mb/index.asp

The CPU cooler sounding different is simply the difference in the fan speed control setting between the two boards in their BIOS. The fan(s) were running faster or slower, that's all. The CPU fan header in use will not stop the PC from completing POST or boot.

The BIOS LEDs just indicate which one is in use, and should be on, and are red.

How do you know that POST did not complete?

Remove that card reader for now.

We need the full model number of your Kingston memory to check for compatibility with your Intel CPU.

The Reset button should work, is the polarity correct?


-------------
http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Phil86
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 1:17pm
Originally posted by parsec parsec wrote:

Originally posted by Phil86 Phil86 wrote:

[URL=][/URL]Hello everyone,

Today i upgraded my Rig from MSI970A-G46+FX6350 to a ASRock Fatal1ty Z170+i56600k.
Other Speccs;

750W PSU
2xKingston Hyperbeast 1600Mhz DDR3 8Gb
CPU Cooler: Coolermaster V8 Vapor
Samsung Evo 250Gb SSD
Seagate Barracuda 1Tb HDD
Raedon R9 280x 3Gb
Windows 10

After i was done with the reassembly of the components i turned the System on and it went off after half a second then it reboots and all LEDs, FANs and visible Components are running.
There is no Post, My Monitor is not recieving a Video Signal and enters Sleep Mode.
But the Components keep running until i do a Hard reboot/shutdown.
Gotta say the CPU Cooler sounds a little different from.the previous Setup.

I have so far, reassembled everything to see if all the Pins and Connectors are correctly in place and have a tight fit.
Reapplied thermal paste (using Coolermaster IC 1V).
Reset the CMOS Battery.
Started booting in secondary BIOS (May be important to mention that in both cases the LED was a solid constant red).
Tried plugging in VGA Monitor instead of HDMI.
Tried onboard Video plugins.

I dont have a second CPU Cooler at hand atm so i dont know, the V8 is HUGE and a Beast. The split second reboot at start makes me wonder if its a Power Supply issue,but then again it wouldnt run stable afterwards would it?
And one additional question; Does it matter wether i plug the CPU Fan into CPU_FAN1 or2??
I have one Pin Connector for USB_Card Reader plugged into one of the two USB2.0 recievers on the Mobo, thats basically the only thing im not sure with.
And by now i tripple checked ALL the Pins for PWR, REset etc are correctly in place.

Please id be glad for ANY suggestions here because i cant think of anything else that might be the cause.

Dear God let it not be broken :D.

Greetings,

Phil

Edit: Forgot to mention that eventhough the pins are all in their correct place, the Reset Button does not work.


So let me be sure this is right. You simply moved your Windows 10 installation/drive? from an AMD chipset board and processor system, to an Intel chipset board and processor system. That is what it sounds like from your description.

The chances of your Windows 10 installation on an AMD system booting on an Intel system is very small, or none.

What was the SATA mode set to on the AMD board?

While all you told us was ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 as the board you have, and there are six different ASRock Z170 boards with "ASRock Fatal1ty Z170" as part of the name model name, so we have no idea what board you have.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/index.asp" rel="nofollow - http://www.asrock.com/mb/index.asp

The CPU cooler sounding different is simply the difference in the fan speed control setting between the two boards in their BIOS. The fan(s) were running faster or slower, that's all. The CPU fan header in use will not stop the PC from completing POST or boot.

The BIOS LEDs just indicate which one is in use, and should be on, and are red.

How do you know that POST did not complete?

Remove that card reader for now.

We need the full model number of your Kingston memory to check for compatibility with your Intel CPU.

The Reset button should work, is the polarity correct?





Hey,

yeah that is what i did, i figured it would be possible for the System to boot from Disc eventhough the Hardware had significantly changed, its my first Intel system ever so i didnt know that there could be such unforgiving circumstances.

The exact description would be;

ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4/D3

The SATA Mode was set to IDE.

As far as I know the POST completion is marked with a beep, and i have no Sounds whatsoever.

Yes, the Reset polarity was correct.

Im not sure where to find the Modell number of those RAMS so ill give you the two most likely Numbers from the retail Box:

16GBb DDR-1600 CL9 240-Pin UDIMM Kit

KHX16C9T3K2/16X.

Thanks for the help, if i dont answer in Time its probably due to the fact that its right now 7am here and ill hit the hay.

Greets




Posted By: Phil86
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 8:34pm
Oh and yes i just want to say, my Mouse and Keyboard are not turning on either.


Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 10:07pm
Connect only the PSU, CPU, monitor, keyboard and 1 stick of RAM to the board, disconnect everything else, even the front panel headers and SATA cables and try to post with just the iGPU. Make sure you clear CMOS before trying to power on. Let us know what happens.

-------------


Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 11:38pm
" rel="nofollow -
Originally posted by Phil86 Phil86 wrote:


Hey,

yeah that is what i did, i figured it would be possible for the System to boot from Disc eventhough the Hardware had significantly changed, its my first Intel system ever so i didnt know that there could be such unforgiving circumstances.

The exact description would be;

ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4/D3

The SATA Mode was set to IDE.

As far as I know the POST completion is marked with a beep, and i have no Sounds whatsoever.

Yes, the Reset polarity was correct.

Im not sure where to find the Modell number of those RAMS so ill give you the two most likely Numbers from the retail Box:

16GBb DDR-1600 CL9 240-Pin UDIMM Kit

KHX16C9T3K2/16X.

Thanks for the help, if i dont answer in Time its probably due to the fact that its right now 7am here and ill hit the hay.

Greets




The good news is your memory seems to be compatible with your board and CPU. It is listed in your board's memory support list, KHX16C9T3K2/16X is the model number I was looking for. The memory controller is part of the CPU. I forgot there is a few Z170 boards that use DDR3 memory.

You are right about the POST beep, but a POST beep speaker is not built into your board. If you put one on the header of your board that's great, but one problem. The default BIOS setting for the POST beep is disabled. So you won't get any beeps until you can get into the BIOS and enable it, sorry to say.

Back to your memory, which memory slots are you using? Usually the A2 and B2 (black) slots have priority when using two DIMMs, but 8GB DIMMs like yours should be in the A1 and B1 (red) slots. Your board's manual is not clear on this topic.

Sorry to ask, but just to check, do you have a cable from the PSU connected to the eight pin CPU power connector at the top, left side of the board? The CPU won't work unless at least a four pin connector cable is used for that connector.

Xaltar's suggestion of testing with a minimal system is what you should do when you can't get the system to start at all. The more basic, the better it is when things don't seem to be working.

You'll need a simple mouse and keyboard at first on a new system, as in wired. Be sure to use the USB 2.0 ports on the board's IO panel. If you have a PS2 keyboard, use that at first.

Moving on to your OS installation, you really should do a fresh installation of Windows 10. I would be surprised if, once you get past POST, if your AMD system installation will boot on an Intel system. The network and audio chips are different, I don't see any hardware that is the same between your AMD and Intel boards. If you only used generic Win 10 drivers, you might have some luck, but so much is different, the amount of updating Windows will try to do will take a while.

Also, your Win 10 installation will most likely detect the change as a need to activate Windows again. Actually, with a new board, that is a given. So you'll need to deal with that too.

I assume your SSD is the OS drive? You said you used IDE as the SATA mode with your AMD system. The default SATA mode (in the BIOS) for Intel boards for a long time now is AHCI which uses a different driver.

Using IDE mode with a SSD is crippling its performance, you simply must use AHCI mode with a SSD. You don't need IDE mode with modern HDDs too, AHCI was actually designed to improve the performance of HDDs, but also has huge benefits with SSDs, more so than with HDDs.

I assume you changed the mounting hardware for the CPU cooler, since the Intel mounting style is completely different.


-------------
http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Phil86
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 11:47pm
" rel="nofollow - Okay thanks for the help, but i guess the Topic has to be delayed, i just noticed a few Hours ago that one of the CPU Pins on the Motherboard was completley bent backwards, i guess ill need a new one then first. I seriously dont know how just one Pin couldve been bent but well thats how it is. As soon as ill have a replacement ill try to tell you guys if it works or if it doesnt. Right now im back on my old Setup so, at least i know none of those components have been damaged in the Process. One thing tho...should i worry about the CPU now aswell?? Its has no burns or something on it, looks perfect.


Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 12:55am
Its very hard to damage an intel CPU. So long as the pads are clean, clear and the substrate isn't bent it should be fine.

-------------


Posted By: Phil86
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 1:41am
Okay thats good to know, i hope this all works out. I just find its weird,that its just one Pin...i mean hows it possible to bend one single pin while all the others are in perfectly correct position and this pen is really bend 180 degrees backwards.


Posted By: Phil86
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 2:44am
" rel="nofollow -
Originally posted by parsec parsec wrote:

[URL=][/URL]
Originally posted by Phil86 Phil86 wrote:


Hey,

yeah that is what i did, i figured it would be possible for the System to boot from Disc eventhough the Hardware had significantly changed, its my first Intel system ever so i didnt know that there could be such unforgiving circumstances.

The exact description would be;

ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4/D3

The SATA Mode was set to IDE.

As far as I know the POST completion is marked with a beep, and i have no Sounds whatsoever.

Yes, the Reset polarity was correct.

Im not sure where to find the Modell number of those RAMS so ill give you the two most likely Numbers from the retail Box:

16GBb DDR-1600 CL9 240-Pin UDIMM Kit

KHX16C9T3K2/16X.

Thanks for the help, if i dont answer in Time its probably due to the fact that its right now 7am here and ill hit the hay.

Greets




The good news is your memory seems to be compatible with your board and CPU. It is listed in your board's memory support list, KHX16C9T3K2/16X is the model number I was looking for. The memory controller is part of the CPU. I forgot there is a few Z170 boards that use DDR3 memory.

You are right about the POST beep, but a POST beep speaker is not built into your board. If you put one on the header of your board that's great, but one problem. The default BIOS setting for the POST beep is disabled. So you won't get any beeps until you can get into the BIOS and enable it, sorry to say.

Back to your memory, which memory slots are you using? Usually the A2 and B2 (black) slots have priority when using two DIMMs, but 8GB DIMMs like yours should be in the A1 and B1 (red) slots. Your board's manual is not clear on this topic.

Sorry to ask, but just to check, do you have a cable from the PSU connected to the eight pin CPU power connector at the top, left side of the board? The CPU won't work unless at least a four pin connector cable is used for that connector.

Xaltar's suggestion of testing with a minimal system is what you should do when you can't get the system to start at all. The more basic, the better it is when things don't seem to be working.

You'll need a simple mouse and keyboard at first on a new system, as in wired. Be sure to use the USB 2.0 ports on the board's IO panel. If you have a PS2 keyboard, use that at first.

Moving on to your OS installation, you really should do a fresh installation of Windows 10. I would be surprised if, once you get past POST, if your AMD system installation will boot on an Intel system. The network and audio chips are different, I don't see any hardware that is the same between your AMD and Intel boards. If you only used generic Win 10 drivers, you might have some luck, but so much is different, the amount of updating Windows will try to do will take a while.

Also, your Win 10 installation will most likely detect the change as a need to activate Windows again. Actually, with a new board, that is a given. So you'll need to deal with that too.

I assume your SSD is the OS drive? You said you used IDE as the SATA mode with your AMD system. The default SATA mode (in the BIOS) for Intel boards for a long time now is AHCI which uses a different driver.

Using IDE mode with a SSD is crippling its performance, you simply must use AHCI mode with a SSD. You don't need IDE mode with modern HDDs too, AHCI was actually designed to improve the performance of HDDs, but also has huge benefits with SSDs, more so than with HDDs.

I assume you changed the mounting hardware for the CPU cooler, since the Intel mounting style is completely different.


Oh btw, maybe i know sonething you didnt wich will help you out with future support questions.

Regarding the Windows10 License, ive read that if you connect your License with a Microsoft Account, Hardware changes shouldnt be a Problem.

Just in case you didnt hear about that :)


Posted By: Phil86
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 5:23pm
" rel="nofollow - Hey, so the new Motherboard should arrive today. Concerning the Windows compatibility...what would you recomend? Should i clean install Windows before making any changes so that the drivers for my old CHipsets are all removed? Or should i assemble all the part first and then Boot from Disc??


Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 10:23pm
Originally posted by Phil86 Phil86 wrote:



Oh btw, maybe i know sonething you didnt wich will help you out with future support questions.

Regarding the Windows10 License, ive read that if you connect your License with a Microsoft Account, Hardware changes shouldnt be a Problem.

Just in case you didnt hear about that :)


Windows licensing is tied to the mother board. If that changes, you'll need to call their 800 number to establish it again. I have a Microsoft account too, which makes no difference.

You'll see...


-------------
http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 10:40pm
Originally posted by Phil86 Phil86 wrote:

" rel="nofollow - Hey, so the new Motherboard should arrive today. Concerning the Windows compatibility...what would you recomend? Should i clean install Windows before making any changes so that the drivers for my old CHipsets are all removed? Or should i assemble all the part first and then Boot from Disc??


Don't install Windows on your old system, wait until the new one is assembled. There is zero in common between the two systems with the basic drivers for each board. Even if you don't install any drivers at all, Windows still uses its own built in stuff, which includes some AMD drivers.

If you have any problems after installing Window again on the old system, and move it to the new one, you won't know if it is from installing it on the AMD system, or something with the new one.

You really should format the OS disk so everything is removed before installing Windows again. You also only want to have the OS disk running when you install Windows on the new system.

If you installed Windows on the old system with another drive running, Windows will put the boot/system partition on the other drive. If you move that drive to the new system, you'll then have two boot/system partitions in the PC, which will be confusing with strange results.


-------------
http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Phil86
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2016 at 12:05am
Originally posted by parsec parsec wrote:

Originally posted by Phil86 Phil86 wrote:

" rel="nofollow - Hey, so the new Motherboard should arrive today. Concerning the Windows compatibility...what would you recomend? Should i clean install Windows before making any changes so that the drivers for my old CHipsets are all removed? Or should i assemble all the part first and then Boot from Disc??


Don't install Windows on your old system, wait until the new one is assembled. There is zero in common between the two systems with the basic drivers for each board. Even if you don't install any drivers at all, Windows still uses its own built in stuff, which includes some AMD drivers.

If you have any problems after installing Window again on the old system, and move it to the new one, you won't know if it is from installing it on the AMD system, or something with the new one.

You really should format the OS disk so everything is removed before installing Windows again. You also only want to have the OS disk running when you install Windows on the new system.

If you installed Windows on the old system with another drive running, Windows will put the boot/system partition on the other drive. If you move that drive to the new system, you'll then have two boot/system partitions in the PC, which will be confusing with strange results.

yeeah okay, but Windows is already on the SSD and as far as i know i cant just deinstall WIndows10 completley?! I can just set it back to a clean install, at least when i last tried i think it wouldnt let me Format the OS Drive...



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