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970m Pro 3 New Build, Won't Post? Any Ideas?

Printed From: ASRock.com
Category: Technical Support
Forum Name: AMD Motherboards
Forum Description: Question about ASRock AMD motherboards
URL: http://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4165
Printed Date: 05 Mar 2024 at 2:21pm
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Topic: 970m Pro 3 New Build, Won't Post? Any Ideas?
Posted By: 3BoysMom
Subject: 970m Pro 3 New Build, Won't Post? Any Ideas?
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2017 at 10:20am
" rel="nofollow - OK here's the deal guys, I decided to build my son a PC for Xmas because I only had $500 to spend and a pre-built one at that price wasn't gonna do. I put this together from a suggested "cheap Gaming PC build"--however cheap it's better than the laptop he's using--you don't even want to know the stats on it. But, I can't get it going. It's my first new build,  so anything is possible.  It turns on...PS fan running, 2 chassis fans running, and the CPU fan is going. Screen shows "no signal" and there are no beeps at all from PC speaker. I went through this:  http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems just to see if I missed anything.  Also, even though it's my first complete build, I've changed out drives, PSs, memory, so not a total newbie and I build avionics computers at work--which BTW have much better pics and instructions than any of the manuals I had out putting this together. So I'm confident I can plug in wires but know nothing about testing them or software (those guys get paid a lot more).
Tried the graphics card in other son's PC and his in this just to eliminate that, tried alternate monitor cables, tried with 1 stick of RAM, no RAM, etc. Did not try bread-boarding.  I don't know what else to try other than that. Don't want to return the board or CPU if I did something wrong and it's not actually bad? Sorry I'm so wordy! According to the troubleshooter, bad PSU, MB, or CPU are most likely causes of this problem. Should I try bread-boarding and if that doesn't work, do I return 1 at a time and just keep trying new parts? Sigh. I really wanted my son to have a better computer and it's not even usuable.

Anyway, here's what I have in the cursed thing:  970M Pro3 with AMD FX-6300  (says supported)   and Ballistix Sport XT 4GBx2 DDR3 1600 CL9 @ 1.5V  (said compatible). Using GeForce GT 610 2G (working in other PC), and Antec VP-450 PS. Just have a regular seagate 1TB HD, but that doesn't matter since I can't boot to format it, right? Have it unplugged for now, didn't work either way.



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Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.



Replies:
Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2017 at 11:27am
Check that you haven't overlooked connecting the 8-pin CPU Power at the upper left corner. Adjacent to the memory slots.

And Kudos Mom for undertaking this for your son.


Keep us posted how that, the above, comes out.





Posted By: 3BoysMom
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 6:18am
If it's the bundle coming from the power supply, then yes it's already plugged in. It had 2 pieces that go into the into the 8 pin.

Also didn't mention that the LEDs don't come on, thought this might be due to my plugging them in backwards, since the manual shows + and GROUND (as does MB), but the connectors are not marked with anything. So I looked up PC wire connections and found that black or white is usually ground, and power is usually colored. So I went with that, making black ground and the grey power +. With the speaker wires, I put red + on #1 +5v. Still not beeps or LEDs.  The case is a deep cool ATX midtower Tesseract. It came with a wire loose out of a connector (for 1 of the fans), so I took out the contact and it had 2 wires going into 1 contact, and only wire going in the clamp, so no wonder it pulled loose.  Doesn't really assure that the rest of the wiring is good though.


-------------
Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 11:40am
" rel="nofollow - Odd. You have the 24-pin(20+4) Motherboard _and_ 8-pin(4+4?) both connected, right?

Sorry for the seemingly ignorant questions coming from me. At times diagnosing over the internet is not the most conducive for assistance on my side.



Doesn't the 4+4 CPU Power have a clip to secure it to the little bump/retainer that is located on the 8-pin MB mounted socket?






Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 12:19pm
" rel="nofollow -
Originally posted by 3BoysMom 3BoysMom wrote:

If it's the bundle coming from the power supply, then yes it's already plugged in. It had 2 pieces that go into the into the 8 pin.

Also didn't mention that the LEDs don't come on, thought this might be due to my plugging them in backwards, since the manual shows + and GROUND (as does MB), but the connectors are not marked with anything. So I looked up PC wire connections and found that black or white is usually ground, and power is usually colored. So I went with that, making black ground and the grey power +. With the speaker wires, I put red + on #1 +5v. Still not beeps or LEDs.  The case is a deep cool ATX midtower Tesseract. It came with a wire loose out of a connector (for 1 of the fans), so I took out the contact and it had 2 wires going into 1 contact, and only wire going in the clamp, so no wonder it pulled loose.  Doesn't really assure that the rest of the wiring is good though.


Your description of the wiring to the fan does not make sense. A PC fan will never have two wires going into one contact. A fan that comes with a PC case will have three wires, each to its own contact. If a fan had two wires going into one contact/pin, then it was wired wrong. DO NOT use it like that! Disconnect that fan at least temporarily.

Yes, cheap cases won't have any polarity markings on the connectors, but the wires might.

What is telling you your memory is compatible? Crucial's website? It's not in the memory support list for your board, but that list is not perfect.

You won't get any beeps from the board until the POST beep speaker option is enabled in the BIOS, it is disabled by default. Yeah, I don't like that either.

Is the video card in the PCIe slot closest to the CPU socket?

The wiring from the PC case to the board can be confusing for the first time builder. Be sure to use the mother board's manual as a reference for the pin locations.

The PC case has separate power and HDD LEDs and wiring?

Your memory should be in the A2 and B2 slots.

Since you've moved things around so much, you could try clearing the CMOS/BIOS with the board's jumper, NO POWER connected to the board (PSU off and unplugged from AC power.) Move the jumper to the clear position, and then move it back to the normal position. Shown in the manual.

Some monitors won't be set to auto-detect the input when they have multiple inputs. Be sure to select the input you use (HDMI, DVI, etc) on the monitor itself manually.

Becoming angry at the PC is not helping you. It clouds your thoughts, and is distracting.



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http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: 3BoysMom
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 1:19pm
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:

" rel="nofollow - Odd. You have the 24-pin(20+4) Motherboard _and_ 8-pin(4+4?) both connected, right?

Sorry for the seemingly ignorant questions coming from me. At times diagnosing over the internet is not the most conducive for assistance on my side.



Doesn't the 4+4 CPU Power have a clip to secure it to the little bump/retainer that is located on the 8-pin MB mounted socket?




yes the 24 pin is plugged in also which must be in the correct location as it's the only receptacle that size, and the one called out in the manual.
Yes, the 4+4 does have the clip securing it and it's keyed so can't be plugged in backwards.
Ask away, I'd really rather it be I missed something or plugged it in backward than bad parts--that would mean it could still potentially work.



-------------
Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.


Posted By: 3BoysMom
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 2:55pm
Originally posted by parsec parsec wrote:

" rel="nofollow -
Originally posted by 3BoysMom 3BoysMom wrote:

If it's the bundle coming from the power supply, then yes it's already plugged in. It had 2 pieces that go into the into the 8 pin.

Also didn't mention that the LEDs don't come on, thought this might be due to my plugging them in backwards, since the manual shows + and GROUND (as does MB), but the connectors are not marked with anything. So I looked up PC wire connections and found that black or white is usually ground, and power is usually colored. So I went with that, making black ground and the grey power +. With the speaker wires, I put red + on #1 +5v. Still not beeps or LEDs.  The case is a deep cool ATX midtower Tesseract. It came with a wire loose out of a connector (for 1 of the fans), so I took out the contact and it had 2 wires going into 1 contact, and only wire going in the clamp, so no wonder it pulled loose.  Doesn't really assure that the rest of the wiring is good though.


Your description of the wiring to the fan does not make sense. A PC fan will never have two wires going into one contact. A fan that comes with a PC case will have three wires, each to its own contact. If a fan had two wires going into one contact/pin, then it was wired wrong. DO NOT use it like that! Disconnect that fan at least temporarily.

Yes, cheap cases won't have any polarity markings on the connectors, but the wires might.

What is telling you your memory is compatible? Crucial's website? It's not in the memory support list for your board, but that list is not perfect.

You won't get any beeps from the board until the POST beep speaker option is enabled in the BIOS, it is disabled by default. Yeah, I don't like that either.

Is the video card in the PCIe slot closest to the CPU socket?

The wiring from the PC case to the board can be confusing for the first time builder. Be sure to use the mother board's manual as a reference for the pin locations.

The PC case has separate power and HDD LEDs and wiring?

Your memory should be in the A2 and B2 slots.

Since you've moved things around so much, you could try clearing the CMOS/BIOS with the board's jumper, NO POWER connected to the board (PSU off and unplugged from AC power.) Move the jumper to the clear position, and then move it back to the normal position. Shown in the manual.

Some monitors won't be set to auto-detect the input when they have multiple inputs. Be sure to select the input you use (HDMI, DVI, etc) on the monitor itself manually.

Becoming angry at the PC is not helping you. It clouds your thoughts, and is distracting.



#1 I hate to waste space on this, as I doubt that the loose fan wire is causing any real problem--but since you mentioned it, wish I could put a pic it's hard to describe things here. The 2 fans have the same wiring--a red, black, and yellow coming from the fan going into that 3 pin connector. ALSO coming out of the same connector are another black and red wire. So, 3 pin on the connection side yes, but 5 wires coming out of the wire side. The yellow is single, but the 2 black wires go into the same slot, and the 2 red wires into the same slot. The black wire was hanging loose, so I removed the contact from the black connector, which is when I saw that 2 wires are crimped onto the same contact, or would be if had not been loose. Some of the strands were broken so I cut and  re-stripped the wire and tried to bend the contact back to put the wire back in, but it seems like a very weak connection for 2 wires--but then I'm used to aircraft standards so when I see this type of thing it always throws me off. I did build a cable (at work) with 2 wires going to 1 contact before, but it was connected with a solder sleeve on the 2 wires to 1, then the 1 goes to a contact. I've never seen 2 wires going into the same contact, there are too many strands to fit in, the wires are way to wide for the contact. The fan works, but if any force is put on it it would come loose again. BTW the other black and red wires from there have the large connector on them that I hooked up to the power supply, hopefully that is where it goes.

#2 (not sure why I'm using numbers as I skipped some) The memory may indeed be the problem. I couldn't make heads or tails out of the compatibly chart in the listing , it only showed a few 1 and 2 gig for this brd, but I was using new egg and many more showed as compatible, and I know that crucial guarantees it and I've bought memory from them before for upgrades. I was in a marathon online xmas shopping spree at 2 am with a cappuccino in hand and I wanted free 2-day shipping so I bought on Amazon. I could have easily purchased the wrong type. Mine indeed do not show up on the crucial list as compatible. So it seems like my next step is to buy the correct memory and see if that was the only problem.   Tongue

#3 sucks about the speaker beep, but helpful to know that's probably not me.
#4 the video card is in the slot closest to the CPU socket not because I knew any better, but that was where the manual told me to put.
#5 the case has a PW SW, reset SW, HDD LED, and a + & - PLED
#6 memory is in A2 & P2--again because that is where manual said to put it.
#7 I did try clearing the CMOS per the manual, but will probably do that again when I'm ready to try it.
#8 I will try that with the monitor as well. The monitor is not new, so who knows what we did with it last.
#9 I'm sorry that I seemed angry to you. Perhaps you mistook my sarcasm as anger? I'm very sarcastic and sometimes people don't get my sense of humor or it comes across wrong in text form. I am not angry at the PC, just frustrated as my son has been waiting so long and he can't use it yet. If you picture my throwing tools around I assure that is not the case. I haven't even tried to pick it up and throw it, for 1 thing it's heavy and another it's so shiny and pretty.


-------------
Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.


Posted By: 3BoysMom
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2017 at 12:42am
So before actually spending $$ on something I might not need, I spoke to crucial to see if my memory really was compatible or not.  It seems that this memory has an alternate part number, and that is the one that you find when you look up compatible items, even though what I ordered on Amazon has a different #. 

so, this ...Ballistix Sport XT 8GB Kit 4GBx2 DDR3 1600 MT/s PC3-12800 CL9 at 1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory Modules BLS2K4G3D169DS3 is the same as this... http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro-gaming-aura/CT8216105" rel="nofollow - http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro-gaming-aura/CT8216105 according to Crucial anyway.

-------------
Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.


Posted By: TimButterworth
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2017 at 2:42am
Hi,

Just built a very similar PC myself, and was a little held up by forgetting to plug in the CPU 8-pin power connector .

However, a couple of things I suggest.

1) The CPU fan has four wires and connects to the header above and to the left of the CPU socket. The system will not post without this connection.

2) Bad RAM can cause this. Remove all the RAM and try again. You should here some beeps to signify the absence of RAM. If you hear beeps, power off and try one module and, if no POST, then try the other. It's unlikely both modules are goosed and it's unlikely the RAM is completely incompatible (DDR3 is very forgiving in my experience).

3) Case fans do not need to be connected to the mobo for the system to POST. Mine are powered from a sata power connector and controlled by a three speed switch on the case, so my system thinks I don't have any case fans!

4) After some misadventures with over-tight sata power cables and then RAM overclocking, I found that to properly reset the mobo (and allow it to POST) you need to:
I) Remove the kettle lead.
II) Unplug the drive sata cables.
III) Press the ON button to discharge any remaining charge in the system.
IV) Plug everything back in and try switching on.
V) If it still doesn't POST, hold down the power button to force the mobo off, then try starting up again. The max number of times I needed to do that was about 4!

Hope that helps!


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2017 at 10:36am
Originally posted by 3BoysMom 3BoysMom wrote:

So before actually spending $$ on something I might not need, I spoke to crucial to see if my memory really was compatible or not.  It seems that this memory has an alternate part number, and that is the one that you find when you look up compatible items, even though what I ordered on Amazon has a different #. 

so, this ...Ballistix Sport XT 8GB Kit 4GBx2 DDR3 1600 MT/s PC3-12800 CL9 at 1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory Modules BLS2K4G3D169DS3 is the same as this... http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro-gaming-aura/CT8216105" rel="nofollow - http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro-gaming-aura/CT8216105 according to Crucial anyway.



Looking on Crucials Memory for this board they, CT8216105, are NOT compatible:
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/ASRock/970m-pro3





Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2017 at 12:06pm
Originally posted by TimButterworth TimButterworth wrote:

Hi,

Just built a very similar PC myself, and was a little held up by forgetting to plug in the CPU 8-pin power connector .

However, a couple of things I suggest.

1) The CPU fan has four wires and connects to the header above and to the left of the CPU socket. The system will not post without this connection.

2) Bad RAM can cause this. Remove all the RAM and try again. You should here some beeps to signify the absence of RAM. If you hear beeps, power off and try one module and, if no POST, then try the other. It's unlikely both modules are goosed and it's unlikely the RAM is completely incompatible (DDR3 is very forgiving in my experience).

3) Case fans do not need to be connected to the mobo for the system to POST. Mine are powered from a sata power connector and controlled by a three speed switch on the case, so my system thinks I don't have any case fans!

4) After some misadventures with over-tight sata power cables and then RAM overclocking, I found that to properly reset the mobo (and allow it to POST) you need to:
I) Remove the kettle lead.
II) Unplug the drive sata cables.
III) Press the ON button to discharge any remaining charge in the system.
IV) Plug everything back in and try switching on.
V) If it still doesn't POST, hold down the power button to force the mobo off, then try starting up again. The max number of times I needed to do that was about 4!


Hope that helps!


"Remove the kettle lead"? No idea what that is. The AC power cord?

The rest of what you did, and more, could have been accomplished by removing AC power from the PC, moving the Clear CMOS jumper on your board from the normal to the Clear position, waiting 30 seconds, and then moving the jumper back to the normal position.

Originally posted by 3BoysMom 3BoysMom wrote:

...
Anyway, here's what I have in the cursed thing:  970M Pro3 with AMD FX-6300  (says supported)   and Ballistix Sport XT 4GBx2 DDR3 1600 CL9 @ 1.5V  (said compatible). Using GeForce GT 610 2G (working in other PC), and Antec VP-450 PS. Just have a regular seagate 1TB HD, but that doesn't matter since I can't boot to format it, right? Have it unplugged for now, didn't work either way.



Sorry, but I was reacting to the "cursed thing" comment, it didn't sound like a compliment. Wink

OMGosh sarcasm, I'm the king of sarcasm, yet cannot recognize it myself. So much for that... Confused

My only point was being angry at whatever is causing you grief, tends to cause our focus to not be on solving the problem, but on simply being angry.

I'm sensitive to that, since I read comments like, "... throwing the board out the window..." all the time. Or someone has returned the same model board two or three times, and still has the same problem, but is still not sure the real problem is something else.

I'm confused now, is the memory not compatible? DDR3 memory should be virtually generic by now, at least the more basic models such as what you have (had?)

wardog, Why oh Why did Samsung stop selling their DDR3 "Green", "Miracle Memory"? Never saw it not work with a board, not once! Sorry to tease you with that, it's a long gone model of memory that could do just about anything, and was cheap.


-------------
http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2017 at 12:47pm
" rel="nofollow -
Originally posted by parsec parsec wrote:


I'm confused now, is the memory not compatible? DDR3 memory should be virtually generic by now, at least the more basic models such as what you have (had?)


She didn't quite say in her last post of phoning Crucial, but she did offer up PNs enabling me to go look at Crucials site.

That Ballistic Sport line of Crucial, all of it, is IMHO problematic. YMMV, but mine was mostly a no show.


Originally posted by parsec parsec wrote:


wardog, Why oh Why did Samsung stop selling their DDR3 "Green", "Miracle Memory"? Never saw it not work with a board, not once! Sorry to tease you with that, it's a long gone model of memory that could do just about anything, and was cheap.


I'm not selling the two kits I still have. I used to use it a lot in troubleshooting clients machines. I left my client base up in MI when we moved down here to retire in AZ.

Plug and Play !





Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2017 at 8:06am
" rel="nofollow -
Originally posted by parsec parsec wrote:


"Remove the kettle lead"? No idea what that is. The AC power cord?


Exactamundo. Power cord to wall.


Posted By: 3BoysMom
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 6:56am
So if I decide to go with different memory, what should I get? My budget ATM is a little more forgiving than it was before the holidays.

4x2? 8x2? 4x4? IS that memory or am I building a deck? Doesn't have to be Crucial, willing to buy other (Corsair, Kingston?) I just don't know what to get. Quite a bit on the Crucial site shows out of stock, but they did have these:

http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro3/CT7368536
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro3/CT3512191
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro3/CT7372543
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/970-pro3/CT3589509

Oh and this PC is for my 16 yr old, he plays Skyrim, WoW, among others, and Minecraft which I don't get the block ppl but w/e.  I mainly wanted something that that would get him through high school and work for his games without needing upgrading right away. I did skimp on the graphics card no doubt but with a purpose, needing something cheap enough to fit in my budget and simple enough to recycle back into another PC here after I get him a better one. My budget for that still has to be $150-200 though. Then mom (as in me) will use the cheaper one for my PC, so my games will look better!  Wink  Not that integrated intel graphics on a 4 yr old PC need any help...Oh and he asked me last night if  I was ever going to do anything with it or it was just going to sit on the dining room table forever.



-------------
Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.


Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 7:21am
Honestly? I would go with 2x4gb, no need for more than 8gb of RAM with that setup, that GT 610 won't allow settings high enough to take advantage of 4gb of RAM let alone 8 or 16 Wink 8gb (2x4) is a good number as it will allow for you to add more later (slots not all occupied) and should be more than enough RAM even if you upgrade the GPU.

Honestly, I would return the GT 610, go for a single 4gb stick of RAM and pick up something like an R7 250 with the return money + RAM cost difference. You can always throw in another 4gb stick later, just be sure to note the model number so you can get the same model. This setup would offer more than triple the gaming performance of the GT 610 + even 16gb of RAM. Obviously if you can get 8gb (2x4gb) AND an R7 250 then you are golden.

It has been said many times on many different review and tech sites, below a certain performance level, budget GPUs are not worth it. The GT 610 is a perfect example of this, offering just a fifth of the performance of the R7 250 for more than half the price. The GT 610 is handily beaten by the iGPU in even a Haswell Pentium Shocked

If you can't return it then, well, you know for next time Wink At least it supports DX12, though that means little at that performance level.


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Posted By: 3BoysMom
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 8:29am
" rel="nofollow - For graphics I was looking to get something from this "R7 250 2G"

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3QEZ1U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=204PVGX9XXITH&coliid=IJESTWZKAMR70

to this "GTX 1050"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6Y671T/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=204PVGX9XXITH&coliid=I1BRBH1Q77NWI1&psc=1

At least those were a couple I had on my list--I did try reading reviews, but after going through many of them I wasn't sure I saw a lot of difference in $100 range. This swap won't be 2 years down the road but more like 2 months.  The pathetic one I have now will replace the Intel Express Chipset, with the idea being that while the card could be used in another PC, the memory cannot. I'm really not happy with my PC and was already looking to "help" it out. I can go from 6G to 8, up the power supply, add a graphics card. That's all I can do with this thing I'm using.  $44 didn't seem like too much to help out my old one. For my son's PC I wanted to start with the memory I need and beyond so my son won't need to upgrade it. The 8 with 2x4 is what I have now, but don't know if it works or not--seems there is some debate, which is THE ENTIRE REASON I'm checking to see what would be a good brand. My PC is at least 4 yrs old and has 6G so I felt like I should at least have 8 in his, so I'm OK with the 8, as long as it is good enough for the new card I get after tax refund.  Well that's all the time I have for mom-building-pc-class right now as I have to go pick up the college student with no driving license, then bake some cookies.


-------------
Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.


Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 11:49am
" rel="nofollow - http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%2050008476%20601190327%20600006072%20600532699%20600052012&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&SrchInDesc=sniper&Page=1&PageSize=36&order=PRICE

Check the two kits P/N's above on Amazon for availability.

I'll add that if either G.Skill Sniper kit doesn't work I'll buy them back from you !


TTYL





Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2017 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by 3BoysMom 3BoysMom wrote:

$44 didn't seem like too much to help out my old one. For my son's PC I wanted to start with the memory I need and beyond so my son won't need to upgrade it. The 8 with 2x4 is what I have now, but don't know if it works or not--seems there is some debate, which is THE ENTIRE REASON I'm checking to see what would be a good brand. My PC is at least 4 yrs old and has 6G so I felt like I should at least have 8 in his, so I'm OK with the 8, as long as it is good enough for the new card I get after tax refund.  Well that's all the time I have for mom-building-pc-class right now as I have to go pick up the college student with no driving license, then bake some cookies.

When it comes to the RAM, most people are more than satisfied with 8gb today but, you are building with DDR3 and DDR4 is now becoming the standard which means that DDR3 will become more difficult to find in a year or 2. Even then, I still use 8gb in most of my systems and I do a lot more than game. 

As for the GPUs, I was only pointing out that anything below a certain performance becomes a poor value option. The R7 250 in my opinion is what you should be getting as a temporary solution and it would do wonders for your PC when you upgrade your son's PC to something like that GTX 1050 or even better, an RX 470. This is only if you are still within the return window for the GT 610, if not then the GT 610 should still be a decent upgrade from your integrated graphics. 


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Posted By: 3BoysMom
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 1:44am
I will take all things into consideration...I have about a week left on most of these items in general, so I have a few days left to decide. Of course anything I don't return by then I'm stuck with, one way or another, working or not. So I have til about Tuesday to figure this out or send it all back--or be stuck with a non-working system.  Time considered, perhaps starting over would be simpler, but again if the new setup doesn't work, nothing would be solved.

No jokes today been a very tough week. I really do appreciate all the help I'm getting, it helps a lot to have people with real working knowledge. I can "build" anything but the electronics/software issues are completely lost on me. I'm more power tools and exacto knives type. That was not a joke. 


-------------
Put down the chocolate and step away--nobody has to get hurt.

Bug me before coffee at your risk.


Posted By: LulaNord
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 1:35am
" rel="nofollow - Hi...i am a new user here. As per my knowledge you won't get any beeps from the board until the POST beep speaker option is enabled in the BIOS, it is disabled by default. Yeah, I don't like that either.Is the video card in the PCIe slot closest to the CPU socket?
The wiring from the PC case to the board can be confusing for the first time builder. Be sure to use the mother board's manual as a reference for the pin locations.The PC case has separate power and HDD LEDs and wiring?

http://www.7pcb.com/HDI-PCB.php" rel="nofollow - hdi pcb



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