AMD FX 6300 overheats....
Printed From: ASRock.com
Category: Technical Support
Forum Name: AMD Motherboards
Forum Description: Question about ASRock AMD motherboards
URL: https://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4580
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 8:20am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: AMD FX 6300 overheats....
Posted By: quagmire94
Subject: AMD FX 6300 overheats....
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 8:00am
 so , my amd fx 6300 put a beating on my corsair h100i v2 . i was playing overwatch and streaming at the same time. my temp is normally around 130 F. well when the corsair failed During game play my cpu went over 200 F . now the BIOS loading screen of my Asrock 970M Pro3 has a strange effect when u boot Bios. my computer's motherboard is only around 4 months old too..... some strange reason the motherboard didn't enable thermal throttling when i first put my pc together so it just got HOT and then turned off i guess now im asking , what do i do. will this Visual affect turn into something where my computer will break ? i just need help.
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Replies:
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 8:03am
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my whole pc is under 1 year old the corsairs currently in transit for replacement . but my pc was a newegg bundle deal i purchased the asrock 970M Pro3 with my amd fx 6300. and a vengence medium tower with a power supply and a 1060 GTX 6 gb 3 SSD"s and 1 HDD harddrive all for like 600$. love clearance deals , but now i risk having to replace my motherboard. the boot menu of my pc kinda looks like this upon all the normal boot ofasrock on the screen it has a fishing net of static and lines flying back and fourth ASROCK ~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ ~ ~ ~~ ~~ ~
=-=--=-==--=== |
Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 8:56am
In what way did your H100i fail? First you said it over heated when you were gaming, and the PC shut off, because the H100i failed. The temperature went from usually 130F to 200F. The PC is about four months old. Then you said the first time you put the PC together, it got hot and then turned off. That does not make sense, the sequence of events. It sounds like the CPU cooler was not mounted correctly. That is easy to do if you've never mounted an AIO cooler before. Thermal throttling is enabled by default, unless you disabled it. The option is in the Advanced, CPU Configuration screen, called CPU Thermal Throttle. Thermal throttling works by reducing the CPU's speed to try to keep the temperature down. If that is not enough to reduce the CPU temperature, the PC is shutdown. That is exactly what you described, so it was working. What else did you expect thermal throttling to do? If thermal throttling was not working, the CPU would be destroyed if it over heated. BTW, CPU thermal throttling is a feature built into a CPU, it is not provided by a mother board. The BIOS only gives you the option to disable thermal throttling, which is always enabled by default. Your PC seems to still be working, with some apparent problem with the video source. If your H100i failed, what are you using as a CPU cooler on that PC now, when you run it and see the problem with the startup screen? There is more to cooling a PC than just the CPU. When using an AIO liquid cooler like an H100i, there is an issue related to cooling the voltage regulators (VRMs) for the CPU. Standard air cooled CPU coolers circulate air over the heat sink for the CPU VRMs, which is to the left of the CPU socket and to the right of the board's IO panel. Your board's VRM stage is a simple 4 + 1 design, adequate for a 95W TDP processor like yours running at stock speed, but it would normally be used with a CPU cooler that moves air across the VRM heat sink. AIO coolers like an H100i don't do that, obviously. Where is the H100i radiator mounted in the PC case? Are its fans running in intake or exhaust mode? Do you have any other fans in the PC case? Next, your video card creates a lot of heat when you are gaming, and that heat must be removed from the PC case. That depends upon your case fans. You get the "fishnet" affect on the monitor only when the PC starts? Otherwise the display is fine in Windows? Since your 1060 is the video source in the PC, why do you think it is the mother board that is causing the problem you see on the display? What have you done with the PC since this issue started? Did you check the mounting of the H100i? Did you remove it to check the thermal paste imprint for correct mounting? Did you check the mounting of the video card and the cables to the monitor? ------------- http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow"> 
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quagmire94 wrote:Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 9:21am
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such questions. VVVVVVV parsec  ^^^^^^^ 1: no - the corsair failed During gaming. causing it to overheat. 2: Correct it's 4 months old 3:not sure where u read this, this is not true. 4:i did 4 computers before this one. the pump literally locked up on the water cooler during gaming. 5: i took it that thermal throttling would do what ever it took to keep it from overheating. 6:the issue started directly after the cooler failed. i replaced it with another , so i could keep my server up 7:im using another h100i v2 from a server computer that is currently not in use. 8:understood but i do not mess with overclocking. 9: i do have a high velocity brushless fan on the desktop chassis blowing inward, it has a filter to catch dirt. 10: and Top wall blowing Exhaust mode. i dont do intake on things that are heating up. 11:yep 1 fan intake with filters. everything stays a cool 79F in the case. and the power supply fan .''cough'' rooms like 75 F temp.'' 12: PNY 1060 6gb card. has 2 massive fans. air is pushed out by the fan in the case. gaming Card hits around 70C but all cards do this. 13:yep when the boot menu pops up i see static coing across in sertain areas. and display is ok during gaming. 14: purchased a different monitor to eliminate this idea,even switched ports on monitor. 15: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx%3cItem=N82E16835100007&cm_re=thermal_paste-_-35-100-007-_-Product#" rel="nofollow - Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound was used on the cpu and other cooler breif cleaning and anti-static wristband was used. Just checked for incorrect mounting my pc temp is around 102F i'v been on it for around 3 hours now. looking around in Minecraft and google. cables from card and card connection to motherboard is solid.
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Posted By: mgrandy@hotmail.co.u
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 9:44am
| " rel="nofollow - does your psu give enough power to all components ? do the lights flicker on and off? |
Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 10:54am
It is a requirement, overclocking or not, that a fan be situated and secured to blow over the VRMs when you water cool. When you remove a "stock" HSF and replace it instead with a water pump there isn't any more airflow that the "stock' HS/F would supply to cool the VRMs. And the installation instructions from Corsair in the box states a fan must be placed over the VRMs. Or it used to anyways. And for good cause, as I mention above. |
Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 10:56am
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" rel="nofollow - Where or what app are you reading that temp from? |
Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 12:33pm
Where did I get the idea that the first time you put the PC together, it got hot and then turned off? From you first post:
I guess what you actually wrote, but due to the formatting did not come out right, and did not make sense to me, is: "... some strange reason the motherboard didn't enable thermal throttling when i first put my pc together so it just got HOT and then turned off " My questions are simply standard things that are basic PC building situations. I decided to ask all the questions now, instead of dragging them out over several pages of single questions and answers. Let's look at your video card, a PNY 1060 6GB:   Sorry to say, no video card vents all its exhaust out the back vent. First we can see the gap around the sides and back of the card, the PC board is visible on the side, and part of the heat sink fins are visible at the back. Then the vent of the double slot height is not even two inches high. Those two 90mm - 100mm fans move more air than can be vented out those small vents. The video card is not sealed air tight to force the air out the back, even if it could all be vented out the back. Video card manufactures like to tell us all the heat vents out the back, but that is obviously not what happens. The card hits 70C, that's low and great. I bet the fans don't even run at idle, or run very slow. But under stress, it is dumping most of the waste heat into the PC case, not out the back of the card. We wish it went out the back. Feel what is coming out the back of the card at that time. Radiator location is a difficult thing to determine. One aspect will be perfect, but the other won't in most locations. Your exhaust is out the top which is great, but where is the air intake source? You have one 120mm fan at the top rear, through a filter. All filter restrict air movement by at least half. It's also pulling air through the vents cut in the PC case, further restricting air flow. Feel the air flow into the case from that fan sometime, it will surprise you how little it is. Your radiator has two 120mm fans for exhaust. You need to supply those fans with as much air as they exhaust, or they won't be able to exhaust it. You have one intake fan supplying less air than needed by one of the exhaust fans. Where does the other air come from? From inside the PC case. It's the only other source. What happens during gaming? The video card heats up, and dumps most of its heat into the PC case. That warm air is sucked up into the radiator, and over the VRM heat sink. So you are cooling the radiator with air that is warmer than the air outside of the case. If you check Corsair's instructions for the AIO coolers, it may surprise you to see they suggest intake mode for the radiator. That of course to to optimize the CPU temperature. It becomes our problem about what to do with that warm air, if we do it that way. If you can put case fans in the front of your PC case, do it. You need to pump fresh air into that case. If you can put two fans in front, or even three, do it. Also, remove all of the PCIe slot covers from the back of the PC case. You now have vents for the video card heat, or at least more air intake area. Consider, how can a 95W TDP processor, not over clocked, using a 240mm radiator, over heat during gaming? Why does the pump keep dying, apparently? What is powering the pump, a mother board fan header? Something is just not right here, and I have given you several examples why it isn't right. ------------- http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">
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so , my amd fx 6300 put a beating on my corsair h100i v2 .Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 6:24am
Yea. I'd like to know the Make, Model, and how old the PSU is that you're using too. |
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 7:17am
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psu is a thermaltake tr2 600w 4 months old just like every other component on this pc. it's all brand new. fan moves lots of air even with the rigged scrubber filter on it. and my water cooling on corsair link shows room temp 77F water temp 97F at 30percent rpm on fans. their's no issue on air restriction. and the fins in the back are slotted their's no issue on that as for the cooling issue with graphics cards. the case doesn't go past 110F inside it ''pointing thermal reader at heatsink on motherboard ''. spite it's heat dump . and as of yesterday i purchased a small fan 40mm fan to attached to heatsink on the motherboard. dont think that will get hot . stock coolers i doubt would cool that heatsink anyways due to the fact the fins on it are sideways instead of parallel to it .
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Posted By: mgrandy@hotmail.co.u
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 7:35am
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try this calc and see what it comes out with i get 753w for your 3 ssd and a dvd drive etc this does not include your cooling https://images10.newegg.com/BizIntell/tool/psucalc/index.html" rel="nofollow - https://images10.newegg.com/BizIntell/tool/psucalc/index.html my system i get 659w so ive a bit of leeway when it comes to the cooler also this dose not take in to account fans not plugged in to the board
------------- fx 9370 asrock, fatal1ty 970 performance 3.1, NZXT phantom f-atx, AeroCool Integrator 850W, Corsair Hydro Series H100 |
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 7:40am
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http://cdn.overclock.net/a/ad/ad0bdac0_117a.jpeg" rel="nofollow - http://cdn.overclock.net/a/ad/ad0bdac0_117a.jpeg so what part on here are regulators... and what do i need to cool. i got 1 40mm fan on the big heatsink and the others are not really not hot to the touch. though after putting a fan on it it does run differently
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Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 7:43am
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Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 7:50am
| http://i.imgur.com/q0FuJ6A.jpg " rel="nofollow - http://i.imgur.com/q0FuJ6A.jpg ; |
Posted By: mgrandy@hotmail.co.u
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 7:59am
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heres what your looking for too cool, every one has power or move power in some way http://i.imgur.com/bt3a7QE.jpg" rel="nofollow - http://i.imgur.com/bt3a7QE.jpg
------------- fx 9370 asrock, fatal1ty 970 performance 3.1, NZXT phantom f-atx, AeroCool Integrator 850W, Corsair Hydro Series H100 |
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 8:06am
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so just cool the whole pc then. i think the part im cooling now is the part that needed to be cooled . the bottom heatsink of the motherboard was hot like fire well 140F or so. after i installed the fan on it . it was running slow... then was speeding up faster and faster as it cooled off.
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Posted By: mgrandy@hotmail.co.u
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 8:28am
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113f is is a rough estimate to go with 80.6F is what i used to get on my old cough "asus" socket 775 but just see how cool you can get it better you get them the much better they will peform that 140F is like its under load temp which its not ------------- fx 9370 asrock, fatal1ty 970 performance 3.1, NZXT phantom f-atx, AeroCool Integrator 850W, Corsair Hydro Series H100 |
Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 9:03am
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" rel="nofollow - Your board does not have CPU VRM temperature monitoring, you won't find a reading for it with any temperature monitoring program. Only a few high end boards have a CPU VRM temperature sensor. "such coolness. 4 hours into playing overwatch/minecraft" is the title of the Corsair Link screenshot? Yes, the CPU and liquid temps are good. Is that the new H100i? Video card at 147.2F. Not abnormal for that length of gaming. Most of that heat is still being dumped into your PC case. But you're fine now, right? ------------- http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 2:26pm
In this pic the VRMs are directly above the cpu socket, between the socket and the rear I/O panel. Too, and you may not like to read this, I'm not assured the TR2 600w with two low'ish 12V rails is up too the task being asked of it considering the addition NewEgg added of the 1060. NewEgg Combo's are notorious for, among other things, not being well thought out to downright not compatible. You need to keep the fan on the VRM, yet if you have a friend with a Name Brand PSU with a single 12v rail in the 550w-650w range if I were you I'd borrow it to test my fears that the Thermaltake you have is underpowered(2 12v rails). I'm interested in what all you received in the Combo. Link to the Combo please. |
Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 2:38pm
There seem to be 2 versions of the TR2 600w from Thermaltake: If this is yours then it should be fine.  This one however is not good, 2 12v rails with low amperage. If this second one is the one you have then you need to make sure that you split the load between the 2 rails evenly. Using just the one rail means your system is only getting the benefit of about 350w - 400w depending on the rail you are using. I would not use this PSU in a system with your specs, it just doesn't have enough grunt on the 12v rails. ------------- 
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Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 4:44pm
I was/am hoping the Combo link showed which one. NewEgg has a nasty habit of adding parts into a Combo that seemingly looks like a great deal when in fact it appears they are dumping old inventory onto the unsuspecting. That 1060 needs good stable power and I'm left wondering if all this isn't related to the two 12v rail version of this PSU crapping out. |
Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 5:06pm
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If it is indeed the dual rail model then it is very likely the case. 24a on the better of the 2 rails only ~300w and the other is nearer ~200w. Neither of thes rails is up to handing the CPU and GPU. Also note that it says "Max Power 600w" that does not make it a 600w PSU. Between the 2 rails it is 500w at best and that is on a dual rail setup which isn't ideal on modern hardware unless those rails are rated at 30a minimum each. Then we are talking a quality dual rail PSU, this smacks of the ultra budget junk we all too often see rated higher than it is capable of performing. I can't help but feel the dual rail version is an older pre Haswell model where the ratings were different given the higher importance of the 5v rail. I can't believe Thermaltake would make something this junky for current hardware. For those reading that are confused: Haswell and onward changed the voltage priority from 5v to 12v. Any PSU predating Haswell will have a strong 5v rail and weaker 12v rails. This is why we sometimes see people with high power PSUs having power issues, their 700w pre Haswell PSU is only equivalent to a 400w modern psu (for example), less if it has dual 12v rails. For a modern system that includes a discrete GPU you should look for a power supply with a minimum of 40a on the 12v rail for lower end GPUs and 50a+ on high end GPUs. 50a gives you 600w on the 12v rail. If you look at the 2 models of PSU I showed earlier you will see the single rail model is exactly 50a and 600w, that is correct for a system like this one.
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Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 5:57pm
I smell a Sticky here |
Posted By: parsec
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 11:29pm
The change from 5V to 12V as the major rail for a mother board happened long before Haswell. Otherwise, the description is spot on. Proof of that is easily seen by checking a mother board for the 4/8 pin CPU +12V power connector. That is the power input for the CPU's VRMs. If we check Intel socket 775 mother boards and processors (circa 2008), we find the four or eight pin CPU power connector. For example: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/G31DE/index.asp#Specification" rel="nofollow - http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/G31DE/index.asp#Specification We can also see that with AMD socket 939 boards (circa 2006): http://www.asrock.com/mb/ULi/939SLI-eSATA2/index.asp#Specification" rel="nofollow - http://www.asrock.com/mb/ULi/939SLI-eSATA2/index.asp#Specification This change is also related to the introduction of PCI Express as the interface for graphics cards, replacing AGP. While there were multiple variations of the AGP slot interface, most used 5V power for the graphics cards. PCI Express graphics cards use the 12V rail for their major power source. The PSU rail compatibility problem (5V or 12V as the major rail) is related to legacy compatibility, and in some cases the PSU manufacture's reluctance to provide new designs. At the time of the transition to the 12V rail as the major rail, systems that required the 5V rail to provide more power were the majority in use. It was difficult (expensive) to provide high power on both the 5V and 12V rails at the same time, and PSU design became a balancing act for each rail. PC builders had to choose the appropriate PSU for their system. That reality became forgotten as time passed. The power output capability of the 5V rail remained high for backward compatibility, but was unnecessary for the new systems. Some PSU manufactures were slow to reduce the 5V rail's capacity, while new model 750W+ PSUs will only provide 20A on the 5V rail. That is more than enough for modern PC systems. Unfortunately, old PSU designs for the 5V major rail era are still being sold today, at bargain prices. The single and multiple 12V rail designs are another aspect of PSU design. Multiple 12V rail designs can be safer when the components being powered fail, but require the user to correctly balance the hardware connected to the multiple rails. That is the major problem with that design. The single 12V rail design is considered "better", but really because it is simpler to use (no load balancing), component failure is rare, and PSU protection circuits are better and standard on most PSUs. A high quality multiple 12V rail PSU design adds more cost than consumers are willing to spend, and is really not necessary. ------------- http://valid.x86.fr/48rujh" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: Xaltar
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2017 at 12:12am
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Thanks for the clarification on the time frame. I guess I took the whole "Haswell Ready" badge on some newer PSUs to mean that the update occurred then. To be honest this isn't something I have ever really had to think about in my own builds. When I first started out in the industry I was building servers with dual redundant PSUs and high efficiency enterprise solutions. I learned very quickly the importance of the PSU and have always built my systems around the latest high quality unit I can afford that meets my power needs. While I have always advised against using "cheapo" PSUs it wasn't until fairly recently that I started seeing this issue with high end PSUs being as bad (almost) as cheap units because of the changeover. -------------
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Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2017 at 4:02pm
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" rel="nofollow - quagmire, you getting this sorted out there? How's things? |
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2017 at 8:54am
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whole lotta duscussion i was working and had no time to reply. where to begin |
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2017 at 9:04am
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Thermaltake 12v1 23 amp 12v2 20 amp. and looks like Neither image it's a thermaltake tr2 and has a Red label THe combo had contained VVVVVVVVVVVVV ASrock 970 pro3 amd 6300 Ripjaws X g.skill ddr3 1600 mhz '''''' JUST ONE STICK'''' pain in the rear later i had to buy more ram.... darn dual channel motherboards .. 1 tb hhd no brand computer case.... and a 300w power supply '''''' i got the thermaltake because a 300w power supply with no brand is Dangerous for gaming .'''''''' and corsair sent me a brand new h100iv2. yes it's their current model ''my cpu is overclocked to 4.3 ghz btw.''' with those temps. |
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2017 at 9:15am
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" rel="nofollow - [QUOTE=Xaltar] im planning on grabbing 1 750W power supply , im just curious. why is 23 amps Not enough for a 1060 , and 20 amps for the cpu on the other rail ? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153198&ignorebbr=1 |
Posted By: quagmire94
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2017 at 8:58am
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also i fixed the issue by clearing bios. pc boots in 5 seconds to desktop . and awareness is everything i too your idea on getting a better powersupply, now has a thermaltake 1000w power supply with 1 single 12v rail at 60 amps.
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV > > > Thank you all for helping me with this issue < < < ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ |
Posted By: wardog
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2017 at 11:34am
Hooray!!!! |