[solved]New build not starting x370 taichi
Printed From: ASRock.com
Category: Technical Support
Forum Name: AMD Motherboards
Forum Description: Question about ASRock AMD motherboards
URL: https://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7114
Printed Date: 22 Dec 2024 at 1:52am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: [solved]New build not starting x370 taichi
Posted By: evilben
Subject: [solved]New build not starting x370 taichi
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2017 at 6:18am
|
" rel="nofollow - [URL=][/URL][URL=][/URL]I just put together a new machine and it is not booting. This is from my phone so my apologies in advance. When I turn on the power an led near the sata ports lights up purple then flashing blue. When I press the power button the case and CPU fans start to spin for half a second before stopping. The led doesn't change. Any ideas? The Dr debug is blank Specs: ASRock x370 am4 AMD promontory x370 sata 6g usb3.1 atx AMD motherboard AMD ryzen 7 1700 8core 3.4ghz socket am4 95w yd170xbcaewof desktop processor Corsair vengeance lpx 32gb (4*8) 288pin ddr4 3200 (pc4 25600) AMD x399 Fsp group hydro g series hg650 650w atx12v Samsung 850 Evo 2.5" 500gb sata iii 3d nand internal SSD Asus blue ray drive sata model bc-12b1stblkbas Evga GeForce gtx 1080 sc gaming acx3.0, 08g-p4-6183-kr, 8gb gddr5x, led, dx12 osd support (pxoc) Ty |
Replies:
Posted By: MisterJ
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2017 at 8:23am
|
evilben, I would suggest doing a Clear CMOS. Then try removing all but one memory stick and make sure the last one is properly seated. Make sure your CPU power cables are correctly plugged (especially 4-pin CPU) and are CPU not PCIe. PCIe are for video only. Remove all drives and try. Please let us hear. Tell us about your CPU cooler. Enjoy, John.
------------- Fat1 X399 Pro Gaming, TR 1950X, RAID0 3xSamsung SSD 960 EVO, G.SKILL FlareX F4-3200C14Q-32GFX, Win 10 x64 Pro, Enermx Platimax 850, Enermx Liqtech TR4 CPU Cooler, Radeon RX580, BIOS 2.00, 2xHDDs WD |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2017 at 8:46am
|
Thanks for the quick response. For cooling I have a cooler master hyper t2 My case is a cooler master haf 912 if that matters. I tried your suggestion, no change. I pressed the clear cmos button on the back with the power off and the ps unplugged like it said. I also tried 2 different ram sticks, but both in the left most slot. I also unplugged my hd and disc drives from the ps and the satas on the mb I almost did the wrong power cables but noticed before I plugged it in initially. So that part at least is correct |
Posted By: MisterJ
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2017 at 9:32am
|
OK, evilben, unplug all but the CPU and one stick of memory. You will obviously not get a picture but see if it gets further. I suggest you investigate a speaker, so you can hear beep codes. I assume you do not see Debug codes. Please do try multiple memory slots with one memory stick. Next, remove the CPU and check for bent pins and thermal compound on the pins. Enjoy, John.
------------- Fat1 X399 Pro Gaming, TR 1950X, RAID0 3xSamsung SSD 960 EVO, G.SKILL FlareX F4-3200C14Q-32GFX, Win 10 x64 Pro, Enermx Platimax 850, Enermx Liqtech TR4 CPU Cooler, Radeon RX580, BIOS 2.00, 2xHDDs WD |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2017 at 9:54am
|
Still nothing. The pins we're straight and clean. I had my speakers plugged into the back of the mb if that is what you meant, no sound. And yeah no debug codes. |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2017 at 7:49pm
|
That is odd. You're getting the normal LED behavior before you press the power button. MisterJ meant these 2-wire PC tweeters that are attaching directly to the mobo, not some external speakers. Your PSU is also well-regarded and its cable naming is among the best I've seen. Most likely you did all fine there. 2 things worry me here: RAM & GPU. 32GB RAM can prove too much for a Ryzen, IF it's clocked high enough by default. Ryzens are notorious for how picky they are when it comes to RAM. Try only 2 sticks in A2 & B2 slots. You can also put the GPU in another PCIe slot. Tripple-check GPU power as well. Try HDMI and DVI cables if you have these. CMOS clear is mandatory after each component re-seating or change. Please try this as well - get the mobo outside the chassis and try to boot/POST with the bare HW minimum. Care for a non-conductive surface to place the mobo on. ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 1:09am
|
" rel="nofollow - I had already tried different pcie slots on the GPU and had made sure the power to it was good. I tried the mb outside the case with only the CPU and 2 ram sticks in a2 b2. Same thing. Will need to go get a pic tweeter, but when I get back I'll try that as well. Where do I connect it? Clearing cmos only requires pressing the button on the back, right? I also see this clear cmos jumper thing on the mb. Do I need to short that like they describe in the manual? Tyty Ben |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 1:43am
|
You NEED to clear CMOS every time you so much as touch a component, let alone replace/re-seat it. Doing so you are forcing the mobo to enumerate all hardware again. That's a very important thing. Clearing CMOS is best done with PSU unplugged, CMOS battery removed, CMOS jumper to CLR and press the power button for 10s to drain the capacitors. ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 2:02am
|
I cleared the cmos again like you instructed. Tried to run it with only CPU and 2 ram sticks outside the case. Same result. Leds still coming on as soon as I switch the PSU into the on position. When I press the power button on the case the CPU fan starts to spin for a moment then stops. No changes in the leds. I don't see on the mb where to connect to tweeter nor has Google helped Ty for helping Ben |
Posted By: jdillipl
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 2:48am
|
I am assuming that one of the items in the motherboard box was the multi language Quick Installation Guide. Look at the "Motherboard Layout" diagram, item 21 "Power LED and Speaker Header SPK_PLED1". Then look at section 2.6 "Onboard Headers and Connectors". Jake ------------- Asrock X370 Killer SLI/ac, Amd Ryzen 7 1700, GSkill FlareX F4-2400C16D-32GFX, RaidMax Thunder V2 735W PS |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 3:21am
|
" rel="nofollow - http://asrock.nl/downloadsite/Manual/X370%20Taichi.pdf Chapter 2.6, page 27, System Panel Header, as Jake said. Fans stopping after power on is strange. Smells like something's tripping some protection (OVP, OCP, etc.) in the PSU or the mobo itself. Please triple-check all cabling. Check if CPU and cooler are seated properly. Check if something isn't shortening out somewhere. Check jumpers, fan and peripheral connectors and cables. Are you getting ANY Dr. Debug codes at all? If you're know your way around a multimeter we could try a few hacks and see if the PSU is working w/o the mobo. EDIT: now looking more into that RAM of yours, I really think Ryzens will hate it big time. It's neither on the QVL, nor tailored specifically for AMD. But it costs 450 GBP which is craaaazeey! What do you say you pick the cheapest single stick of RAM from the QVL and try with it? ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 4:28am
|
I've quad checked all the cables, they are securely in the correct spots. I've double checked the CPU, it should be seated correctly as well. Nothing on the Dr debug. The mb looks fine. The only thing that looks suspect is on the back it looks like the solder from the clear cmos button has overflown onto one of the pins for the usb/mouse plug in. I'm not familiar with a multimeter, sorry. The local microcenter was out of tweeters and didn't have any cheap ram from the list (using the one stickied at the top of the forum) will have to order online. |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 4:39am
|
" rel="nofollow - By checking the cables I mean disconnect them, make sure each (yes, each) end goes securely in their respective connector. Seems trivial but even I have done some screw-ups by simply overlooking trivial stuff. OK, next thing - can you please post a good macro photo of what you think is the overflown solder? And something 'radical' - try removing ALL your RAM and peripherals, incl. GPU, HDD, SSD, etc. Leave only the PSU, CPU and the CPU cooler. Clear the CMOS and try powering up again. Mobo should be beeping (once you get a beeper) and blinking like a madafaka. Err, I mean Dr. Debug should give you some values. That's a good sign! Continue adding other components one by one. Make sure you clear CMOS each and every time. ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 5:08am
| https://i.imgur.com/WaLkoas.jpg" rel="nofollow - https://i.imgur.com/WaLkoas.jpg |
Posted By: MisterJ
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 5:26am
|
evilben, that looks like a good candidate. I recommend you send the picture to ASRock Technical Support. Hopefully someone with a Taichi will know what they are looking at and if it is wrong. I would send the picture off ASAP, so you can get an RMA going soon if needed. Good find. Enjoy, John. ------------- Fat1 X399 Pro Gaming, TR 1950X, RAID0 3xSamsung SSD 960 EVO, G.SKILL FlareX F4-3200C14Q-32GFX, Win 10 x64 Pro, Enermx Platimax 850, Enermx Liqtech TR4 CPU Cooler, Radeon RX580, BIOS 2.00, 2xHDDs WD |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 5:26am
|
" rel="nofollow - Checked all the cables again. They are well seated. The mb power supply doesn't have wires going on at position 20, is this intentional? Also missing two wires coming out on the PSU side. Tried the radical idea. Same result. CPU and PSU fans start then stop immediately. The leds under the plastic near the sata ports turn on purple then start blinking blue as soon as the PSU is switched on and continue after I try to power up the machine and the fan thing happens. Nothing from the Dr debug |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 5:28am
Although your observations are correct and there is indeed a leaked solder, that's not an issue in this case. Minus what's a typical poor solder job, these two pins you're seeing are not used to carry electricity. They are merely for keeping the respective components installed on the PCB. These components' housings are most likely sharing a common grounding point anyway, i.e. they are already 'touching internally' via PCB traces. Some solder in that case is not an issue at all. But let's be clear, that's a bad soldering, hands down! Take notes, ASRock. You're lucky I don't want to take my PC apart, otherwise I'd show you what a mess my Taichi is under its plastic ports cover shroud thingy! Enough 'garage works' outsourcing already! ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
evilben wrote:Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 5:33am
That's bad news.  At that point the mobo should have started telling us where it's hurt. Even though I don't think the bad solder job in your picture is the real problem, I still believe the mobo is to be RMA'd nonetheless. ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 6:10am
On a side note, I can't really imagine which wires are missing. Could you please post some pictures with all wires you're suspicious of? ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 6:43am
|
Psu side https://i.imgur.com/dPvHrDe.jpg" rel="nofollow - https://i.imgur.com/dPvHrDe.jpg Mobo side https://i.imgur.com/suAtbcZ.jpg" rel="nofollow - https://i.imgur.com/suAtbcZ.jpg You can see the spots without metal contacts. There are no wires in those at all. I am attempting an RMA from Newegg. Hopefully it is just a bad Mobo. |
Posted By: MisterJ
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 7:13am
|
evilben, I would absolutely send your pictures to ASRock TSD - NOW! Enjoy, John.
------------- Fat1 X399 Pro Gaming, TR 1950X, RAID0 3xSamsung SSD 960 EVO, G.SKILL FlareX F4-3200C14Q-32GFX, Win 10 x64 Pro, Enermx Platimax 850, Enermx Liqtech TR4 CPU Cooler, Radeon RX580, BIOS 2.00, 2xHDDs WD |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 11:00am
| They are already sent. Ty everyone for all your help |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 8:48pm
|
Looking through here http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5Catx2_2.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5Catx2_2.pdf and it looks like Fortron just decided to save a few oz. of metal from the connectors with some cheap tricks. While totally not per the ATX spec your PSU should work just as fine. It will be extremely interesting for me to see how this turns out! Best of luck, fingers crossed! ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 10:23am
| " rel="nofollow - Whelp I got a new Mobo from Newegg and it has the same result... Yay... Does that narrow it down to a bad PSU or CPU as I still got nothing running it with only those attached? |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2018 at 1:24am
| I think we figured it out! A friend who is electrical savvy checked out the PSU and shorting the start switch caused the PSU to turn on for a second then stop, just like what was happening to my machine. Going to get a new one and hopefully that'll fix it. |
Posted By: zlobster
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2018 at 1:41am
|
Hope to hear you have advanced! I seldom advise people to check their PSU on their own. It's not that hard, but it's not trivial either. Playing with electricity is not a good thing when one doesn't know what one's doing. Well, I hate hindsight and I won't tell you that I had this in mind for you to try as well. Fook, I just did!  I guess I won't be dissing possibilities that easily from now on. Thanks for the lesson, @evilben! ------------- 1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB |
Posted By: evilben
Date Posted: 26 Jan 2018 at 10:27am
|
Solved! New power supply and it works like a charm. Ty for all your help everyone! The PSU as a potential culprit had come up. I didn't want to mess with it for the reasons you stated. I have a friend who works with that sort of thing a lot though, so I went to him. |
Posted By: datonyb
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 2:20am
|
good news thank you for updating this thread to help others in future ------------- [url=https://valid.x86.fr/jpg250]  [/url]3800X, powercolor reddevil vega64, gskill tridentz3866, taichix370, evga750watt gold |