we have had this before

but im struggling to remember what came of it

im leaning towards it was corruption in the bios flash..............

but also have a vague feeling it could be resolved by changing a setting in bios

i think i suggested performing a DOS based flash to properly erase the complete bios rom before writing the required version (as it seems instant flash merely writes some additional info )

i will have a search and see if i can find the original thread later

id wait for me to try and find the old thread first

and be careful with old flash in dos (in case you have a 2nd gen cpu) as the dos ones are usually first gen bios versions

right i found a few threads

this was the one i remembered

it seems the issue can be resolved disabling CSM

or maybe different bios

before we proceed please list exactly your board

cpu

and bios version your using

http://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6633&KW=bios+corrupt&title=bug-ab350-pro4-f11-boot-menu-corrupt

ok sorry for delay in replying

i was busy doing my company accounts ....deep joy !

right so technically your cpu system needs only the bios from the versions of 3xxx (im still on taichi v3.1) with my 1700 r7

so the try and resolve with the DOS bios method

you will need to create a bootable dos usb stick with bios version 3.10 and use the DOS flashing method , this will totally erase the bios rom and write a new clean code

and then you can use instant flash in bios to update to a later version

PLEASE NOTE

fully reset any bios BEFORE flashing to defaults never flash with any tweaked settings and never flash in windows

also to note in MY opinion the later 4x bios versions are not worth using with a 1st gen ryzen

YOUR boards bios version the same as mine would be 3.2, allthough you may need/use the 3.3 or 3.4 in YOUR case for jedec2666 support or fixed tctl support for some software monitoring programs

I just tried, created a FreeDOS-Pen with Rufus and copied the new BIOS file. Once booted I tried to start the process, however I got this error message:

"The version of BIOS does not support this function!!"

you did use the dos bios file ?

and set the usb as first boot option ?

its been recommended to use Agesa 1.0.0.6  "3.40" for first gen ryzen cpu's. 

another thought. is this only in the Boot selection screen? if so and its not all corrupted in every bios screen but only boot selections screen could be one of the ssd/hdd's as some funky boot stuff going on. maybe remove some drives 1 at a time. start with the oldest one. see if that changes

There must be a solution to this. I remember the F11 menu working back then, always thought it was a BIOS update that broke it, and since then waiting for another one to fix it.

maybe someone would know if they are some funky boot entry's  and how to remove them if its in say the MBR or UEFI boot whatever  on the drive. 

one of the pro's should see this and get some ideas 

very rare to get a official response on the forum you will need to do a support ticket for that.  

I don't own the same motherboard as you, I have the X370 Taichi, so I might not have the exact same menu options but take a look and maybe try this to see if it resolves the issue:

In your Boot menu configure the following:

CSM - Enabled

Launch PXE OpROM Policy - Do Not Launch

Launch Storage OpROM Policy - Do Not Launch

Launch Video OpROM Policy - Legacy Only

If that works, great. If it doesn't  try a different value for PXE and Storage but leave Video as Legacy Only.

the older  tri x has a bios switch

one way is legacy the other way is uefi

so to disable csm you will need to flick the switch but that is provided the fury actually has one ?

yeah its a bit unclear with the fury

the older sapphire tri x cards had a switch but that changed bios between legacy and uefi

i know what your saying as well as the new vega has a 3 way bios switch for overclocking the card

i am not sure which switch you may have

have you ever had the boot menu work ok ?

if so can you remember when it started mucking up ?

i wouldnt have thought so

its some corruption in the bios

i was quite certain the dos wipe/flash would have cured it

Time for plan B then.

This is a long shot so it's up to you whether you think it's worth the effort or not.

Disconnect every storage device you have plugged in ie. SSDs, HDDs and all USB devices. Then flash your BIOS again using the DOS method you've been using previously, BIOS version is up to you.

My thought is that maybe the BIOS flash is picking up on some remnant of an old OS during the flash process which is causing the corruption....as I said, long shot.

I am no expert on this but if memory serves the UEFI boot data is written to the drive, if that data is corrupt then it can cause this issue.

If your corruption clears with no drives connected then try reinstalling them one at a time and see if you can identify which one contains the corrupted data.

If you haven't tried already, pull power from the system, take out the drives and pull the CMOS battery. Place the clear CMOS jumper in the clear position and leave it like that over night. In the morning, put the clear CMOS jumper back in it's default position and replace the battery.

This should clear the RTC and any other non user addressable stored data in the UEFI (hopefully including the boot info).

Let us know if that sorts it.

So we know: 

1. The corruption is not coming from stored data in the UEFI

2. The drives themselves are not the problem

3. BIOS updates did not solve the issue

4. The problem persists even with no boot media connected

At this point I am going to go ahead and say you need to contact Tech Support or your place of purchase and start working on getting an RMA. If the BIOS ROM was removable you could have ordered a new BIOS chip but sadly the Gaming K4 has it's BIOS soldered to the board.

5 pages of troubleshooting with no solution 

The only other solution I can think of is using a ROM programmer (with a clip on adapter) to flash the BIOS remotely. That is a tricky prospect at the best of times and would require you purchase the necessary hardware to do it. It's a little over the top as solutions go. If your system came into my shop and was out of warranty, that is how I would resolve it but as a home user you are better off just RMAing it and getting a replacement. 

It's frustrating because the issue is actually very simple, some corrupt registers in the boot info.... 

On the up side, it seems ASRock is returning to replaceable BIOS chips on some of their newer models, sadly that doesn't help you. 

Personally, I would go about the RMA as soon as possible. You shouldn't have any trouble given how easy the issue is to fix with the right tools. I suppose you could also try taking it in to a Tech and seeing if it will be quicker/cheaper to have them remote flash the chip for you. It won't void the warranty or anything so may be worth a shot if you can find someone with the tools to do it.

WE ARE FAILURES.....................................

All we can do is try to help, we can't solve them all sadly 

What matters is that we try 

There might be an orphaned UEFI boot entry in your system that points to a location where it no longer exists.

Try this tool:

https://www.easyuefi.com/faq/en-US/Delete-UEFI-Boot-Entries.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.easyuefi.com/faq/en-US/Delete-UEFI-Boot-Entries.html

Check for orphaned entries and remove them (if you are still able too boot windows).

The same thing can be done under linux. See efibootmgr here.

yeah

finally a solution

thanks for seeing this issue through and andre for the tip to try and resolve it

Thanks for the info Andre117 

Just goes to show, it takes a village sometimes 

Nice!!!!

It does beg the question though, if the cause was an orphaned UEFI boot entry on a drive, why does the BIOS still show it when all drives are disconnected?

I had thought that clearing CMOS by removing the battery would clear it but apparently not. Live and learn 

As for guides, check out Tech Yes City on youtube. Brian has some pretty decent guides up and they tend to be easy to follow.

3.9 should be okay at around 1.35v ,try lowering it after (1,325-1,3 if your lucky)

mine can do 1.3 at 3.9ghz as long as i stick to 3200 ram speed ,it requires a little more to stabilise fully with faster ram speed and tighter timings

3.7 should be closer to 1.2 ish

uefi is caching it.. its asrock fail that it keeps it when u dont need it

tho i think u can fix that manualy in uefi shell with bcfg command

boot menu starts from zero (0)

To dump a list of current boot entries:

Shell> bcfg boot dump -v

To remove the 4th boot option:

Shell> bcfg boot rm 3

To move the boot option #3 to #0 (i.e. 1st or the default entry in the UEFI Boot menu):

Shell> bcfg boot mv 3 0

 
 http://www.uefi.org/sites/default/files/resources/UEFI_Shell_Spec_2_0.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.uefi.org/sites/default/files/resources/UEFI_Shell_Spec_2_0.pdf  page 84

Thanks Xaltar.

I clearly had my BIOS hat on when I asked that question. I've since brushed up on my UEFI knowledge.

This does point to it being an ASRock firmware issue, as kerberos_20 points out. ASRock need to work out why the UEFI Boot Manager in NVRAM became corrupted and required a third party tool to delete the offending entry.

I've found the BIOS screenshot feature a time saver when flashing a new BIOS. Just enter BIOS, plug a USB thumb drive in, walk through your settings and press F12 to screenshot each one you want to keep an image of.

As far as a guide goes, I generally start with known safe high voltages for CPU, SOC and RAM and work backwards step by step from there, testing each change with your choice of PC stressing tool and watching the temperatures with your choice of monitoring tool.

I currently have my 1700 running @ 3.8GHz with a P-State overclock, 1.225V (BIOS) and CPU LLC at Level 3.

I've also managed to get my RAM up to 3466 @ CL14 with my DRAM voltage at 1.375V (BIOS) and SOC voltage at 1.075V (BIOS) with SOC LLC at Level 3.

did you try 3.9 at 1.35 volts ?

it should hold that stable enough, then you can gently work the volts down, i tend to run the soc at 1.05 volts now just to help stabilise the entire system (at first we were advised to use 1.2 but it seems not needed so high)

That's a legit approach. I want to keep my system as cool as possible and like to find a good performance/temps ratio. I will order a different CPU cooler soon, maybe then I'll try anew.

Thanks everyone, this solved my boot menu issue as well. I didn't even know I had one until trying to sort out a gpu problem.

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