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Z390 Phantom Gaming ITX/ac with i7-6700K£ |
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JohanVSF 
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Joined: 23 Mar 2021 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 125 |
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 Topic: Z390 Phantom Gaming ITX/ac with i7-6700K£Posted: 07 Apr 2021 at 4:03pm |
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Problems solved.. Problemet löst..! :) CPU-cable wasn't properly inserted in the PSU :) ££££
Now, running v4.00 in BIOS; is it worth updating it to latest v4.40£ Or does "better safe than sorry" apply here.. :) £ |
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JohanVSF
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Posted: 02 Apr 2021 at 1:52am |
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Now I've disassembled the build and then I tested again with a bare bone setup (outside the chassi). Only CPU/Cooler/1 RAM/PSU. I even disconnected the wifi-module as I have replaced the wifi card inside it.
The scenario stays the same though. No boot and shutdown after ca 20 seconds. Should I be worried about the sort of brownish contacts on the motherboard socket£ Is it possible that something' burnt there£ 
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JohanVSF
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Posted: 29 Mar 2021 at 5:30pm |
Ok, well I've already tried that, keeping the button pressed for at least a minute or so. I also removed the cooler and cpu to check for any damaged/bent pins but couldn't detect any.  I think I'll take everything apart tonight and start from scratch but first I'll try with some other memories I had the chance to borrow. |
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Xaltar
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Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 27473 |
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Posted: 28 Mar 2021 at 3:09pm |
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Actually, no, the battery connector pins have nothing to do with clearing CMOS.
On most boards there is a separate set of jumpers for clearing CMOS. If you didn't use the momentary switch on the rear IO, give it a shot. Also, shorting the battery pins wouldn't have hurt anything incase you were concerned. |
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JohanVSF
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Posted: 27 Mar 2021 at 11:30pm |
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Ok, just what I thought.. So shorting the two pins on the battery connector would essentially be exactly the same as pushing the button then£ In that case I've already done it..! :)
I think I'll remove the CPU to see if there is any bent or broiken pins on the socket. Nothing else comes to mind right now. |
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Xaltar
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Posted: 27 Mar 2021 at 8:26pm |
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Sorry it took a while to get back to you, your post got bumped down below the recent
post list. On your board you can just use the Clear CMOS button on the rear IO panel. Press and hold it down for 10 seconds or so (in place of using the jumper in the instructions I linked). |
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JohanVSF
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Posted: 25 Mar 2021 at 9:48pm |
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hmm ... it replaced the question mark there too..
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JohanVSF
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Posted: 25 Mar 2021 at 9:24pm |
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Thank you very much! I'll try that tonight. I actually saw that little piece of advice of yours elsewhere here yesterday and thought I'd give it a try.
I'm a little confused about the 3rd step though "Place the "Clear CMOS" jumper in the clear position" I don't really understand what/where that would be on my motherboard. Or am I missing something here£! If maybe you could clarify that a bit, I'd be grateful!  (not my board, just to show...) And just FIY.. Seems to be something wonky with the link (The forum seems to like to replace question marks with Pound signs...  ) This worked though: forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp£TID=630 |
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Xaltar
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Posted: 25 Mar 2021 at 6:24pm |
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Afraid not, the 6700k is not supported. If memory serves there have been attempts
to run Coffee Lake CPUs on older 200 and 100 series boards with mixed success but no one I know of has succeeded in getting Skylake to work on 300 series boards. Make sure you do a full CMOS clear: http://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp£TID=630&title=how-to-clear-cmos-via-battery-removal It may be as simple as the board was used with a much different CPU and has retained some incompatible settings. The method I linked above should clear out anything left over from it's previous config completely. |
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JohanVSF
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Posted: 25 Mar 2021 at 6:09pm |
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Recalled that I also swapped the Wifi-card too; from the stock Intel to a Broadcom.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6Mwgy4 |
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Xaltar wrote: