N3150M no POST |
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paulbot
Newbie Joined: 13 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: 17 May 2016 at 7:32am |
Yes it was still hot, I had powered it down and felt the DIMM since it had happened the first time I tried to power up the board, with the same 2 DIMMs installed. They are 1.5V modules, and the outside slot DIMM gets hot with V set at auto and 1.5. I suppose I could try 1.35V, looks like they are not running at their rated speed on this board anyway.
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parsec
Moderator Group Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996 |
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If a DDR3 DIMM is hot to the touch, something is wrong. Most DDR3 memory is rated for 1.5V. The DIMM was still hot after the PC was shut off and removed from power, when you were working on it? Set the DRAM voltage to Auto if you don't know what the voltage should be... and then find out what it should be. I have one of these boards too, came right up the first time. Supports UEFI booting too. |
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parsec
Moderator Group Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996 |
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Why would you need a UEFI booting Windows installation? If you think you do because the board has UEFI firmware, that is not true. The default settings in the UEFI for DIY boards are all set for legacy booting, and secure boot is not enabled. |
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paulbot
Newbie Joined: 13 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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mehhh. So I go to do some rearranging and notice the outside ram module is hot, enough to sortof burn my finger. Didn't scald it or cause a blister, but definitely still feel the burn. Tried a set of GSkill 1.5V modules but the board wouldn't boot. The same Gskill that I got the board to boot originally. This isn't right. Left it runiing with a fan blowing on the board for now. Board is still not in a case., ambient temps are 72F.
I did go into bios and set the memory voltage to 1.5 from the default Auto. Edited by paulbot - 16 May 2016 at 8:59am |
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Xaltar
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 24638 |
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Glad to be of help
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paulbot
Newbie Joined: 13 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Got the latest bios, updated, checked the ram it was 1.65V, swapped it for a pair that I had tried earlier, they are 1.5V, now second channel is working. I see in bios there are settings for dram V of 1.35 and 1.5V. It was the pair I had initially installed, Crucial Ballistix, that one of the modules had gotten pretty hot. That led me to think I had a bad slot, but apparently not.
Thanks for the help, I would have sent it off and a new one would have done the same thing.
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Xaltar
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 24638 |
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That is odd, is the RAM 1.35v, 1.5v or 1.65v? I know my N3150M only posts with one module if it is in the correct slot, using the other slot causes post failure so there is no real way to test if the other slot is working other than populating both slots. I have no issues running the dual channel RAM I listed earlier. Do you have any other RAM you could test with? It may be worth updating the BIOS using a single stick of RAM and seeing if that resolves your issue.
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paulbot
Newbie Joined: 13 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Looks like the board is going back for an RMA, indeed one of the memory slots is bad, it doesn't see the second of a matched pair of ram.
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mikiem
Newbie Joined: 07 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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>>"So the jury's out on which is the culprit, ram or not having a UEFI boot."
Don't know if any of this will help or not, so again, just FWIW. UEFI bios are often tricky because they often have legacy or so-called compatibility modes, seem to sometimes get confused on which one they're supposed to be in, &/or because of the different modes present, don't behave as 100% UEFI or legacy bios. [I read -- & have absolutely no idea if true or not -- that Microsoft put some restrictions on that sort of thing for small PCs & tablets for them to qualify for free licenses of win10 Home.] It can be a mess... If you can get into the bios, some people have found it works better for them with various motherboards to disable or enable UEFI-related compatibility settings &/or secure boot settings -- they weren't having secure boot issues as much as those settings effected other aspects of how the bios worked. I've had luck once or twice having a Windows install DVD, or any bootable CD/DVD connected, & other times I've had to install from a DVD -- that put the bios into a legacy mode when the UEFI mode was messed up, & I switched everything to UEFI later. RE: the hard drive, it *may sometimes* help to follow Microsoft's directions on prepping the drive -- they've got a few docs I think you'll find if you search their site with terms like windows 8 format gpt. It shouldn't matter much, but it seems to -- there are quite a few posts online agreeing that it can help. Doing it their way the formatting & setting up partitions is different than what you'll get using a lot of software tools. |
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paulbot
Newbie Joined: 13 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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I did have success this morning with a single module of GSkill ram, but also disconnected a hdd that already had windows 10 installed. I got a POST screen that said del or F something to enter bios, F2 I think to load defaults. I checked a couple settings in bios, saved it, and reconnected the hdd I had handy which was AHCI enabled.
So the jury's out on which is the culprit, ram or not having a UEFI boot. Edited by paulbot - 14 May 2016 at 5:43am |
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