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Another AB350M Ryzen Build Not Posting!
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gabrielconroy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 4:59pm
I'll try clearing CMOS again with the battery taken out tonight. I also have a new monitor (I was running into the TV via HDMI before, since my old monitor only had VGA).

I won't be trying the old PSU, kerberos, thanks! It doesn't even have the right pins on the CPU cable.

I've also checked the cables as they are at the moment - the main ones are all labelled CPU and PCI-E and the main mobo cable is obvious since it's the only one of that size.
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kerberos_20 View Drop Down
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Points: 3672 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kerberos_20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 4:08am
u maybe dont try that ancient PSU with pentium 4 cable (4pin) even wit 4 to 8 pin reduction
as those usualy had low ampers on +12V (10-15amp) as back than watts were usualy split in half for 12v and 5/3.3v   gpu + cpu will need more than 15amp on 12v rail....so make sure u have enough juice

simple math can help you:

12v multiply with amperage for said rail (lets say 30A)
12*30 = 360Watts

so if u have 65W CPU (1600 w(which can spike as high as 100watts+ depend on voltage, settings etc)
and gpu with 120W (60W from pci-e and 60W from 6pi rail - usual setting for your GPU which can go as high as 75W pci-e + 75W 6pin rail
thats 120-150W depends on your GPU bios settings

so only here u will need ~250Watts
add to it some other mobo related thigs (like fans)
they are usualy 12V 0.5A (6watt)
lets say u have 1 for cpu and 1 in back (thats should be most common in cheap cooling)
so only here we are at like 270watts

so with this basic (without any headroom for anything u will need ~23amp on +12 rail

your corsair has 50amps which is more than enough...but that ancient PSU may not...if its as old as i think (16A 12v, 30A 5v, 15A 3.3v - rough equation from back than)
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Points: 25073 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Xaltar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 3:37am
Originally posted by gabrielconroy gabrielconroy wrote:

I was going to try my old 400W PSU, but it doesn't have a CPU cable with the right number of pins (4 instead of 6).

The CPU power is 8pin (4+4) not 6, make sure you don't have a PCIe 8pin (6+2) power connector hooked up to the CPU power header, that will certainly cause the problems you are seeing. 
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page 29 of the manual
speaker connects to the top row of 4
speaker positive is the left hand pin
speaker ground is the right hand pin

if your speaker dosnt have a flat 4 hole plug cut it down into single pins
[url=https://valid.x86.fr/jpg250][/url]

3800X, powercolor reddevil vega64, gskill tridentz3866, taichix370, evga750watt gold
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zlobster View Drop Down
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Most of the times when I'm adopting a new platform for my needs, I'm well aware of few possible issues here and there.

With my Ryzen build however I'm in a real need for this platform to work as it should without any major tweaks, which given the price is to be expected. AMD guys are by no means dumb, alas not error-proof either. Aren't we all?

As my first ASRock build I'm experiencing more issues than anticipated. The urge to use my 12ga shotgun on the mobo is rising exponentially.

Yes, short the battery holder terminals with a paper clip or a screwdriver. Make sure there is no power to PSU. IDK about the CMOS jumper; theoretically it SHOULD do exactly the same. If tinkering with the CMOS clear jumper, make sure it's placed in its normal position afterwards. I've seen many guys who forget to do that.

When re-connecting the front panel header, make sure only the PWR BTN is hooked.

Hope this works out for you!

EDIT: other manufacturers high-end boards have dual-BIOS or BIOS recovery (ASUS). BIOS recovery means you just bake an USB with the BIOS image, plug it, and press a button. No monitor is required. This has saved my azz many times. ASRock decided to cheap on such options.


Edited by zlobster - 20 Dec 2017 at 12:24am
1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB
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gabrielconroy View Drop Down
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Thanks! I'll try that later on. Frankly, the desire to send the board back and just get a different brand/model is strong, but I'll see if I can get this working.

When you say short the battery holder, do you mean connect the two terminals with a paperclip or similar?

There are also some CLEAR CMOS pins on the motherboard (separate to the battery) - would these perform the same function? 

When I used the jumpers on these before, I didn't remove all the cables - just the main power cable to the case/PSU, not the ATX cables from the PSU into the board - and the battery itself was still in.

Thanks again for the help...


Edited by gabrielconroy - 19 Dec 2017 at 11:48pm
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zlobster View Drop Down
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Points: 403 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zlobster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 11:26pm
I'm not really familiar with this board's layout and features, let alone its UEFI. :-(

Try this: remove all unnecessary cables and peripherals, front panel incl.; leave just 1 stick RAM (check with manual for exact slot); remove power cable to PSU; remove CMOS battery; short the BATTERY HOLDER (not the battery itself) positive and negative pins for 5-10 sec; place the CMOS again; re-plug the PSU power cable again; check if your monitor is sensing the proper input (HDMI, DVI, etc.), set it manually if necessary.

If you don't see any monitor output now, I'd suggest you RMA or swap the board for something else.

Unfortunately, my experience with Corsair's RAM is also bad. Judging by the sheer amount of AB350M topics however, it could be a case of poorly made mobo. I know, not exactly what you wanted to hear...
1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB
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gabrielconroy View Drop Down
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Points: 11 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gabrielconroy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 10:43pm
OK - that sounds like a promising route to try. Is it a physical switch on the motherboard? At present I can't change any settings in the BIOS or any other screen based activity, for obvious reasons.
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zlobster View Drop Down
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Points: 403 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zlobster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 8:47pm
No beeps would indicate 2 things: either the board is dud, OR it works fine.

Someone around here mentioned that there is an option in UEFI, which tells the mobo which video output to choose first, i.e. iGPU or dGPU. Or was it a switch that disables the integrated video (even though you don't have any). I think it's just a bad configuration in your UEFI somewhere.
1700X ZP-B1 (stock); X370 Taichi (UEFI 3.10); 16GB F4-3200C14-8GFX XMP; 256GB 960 EVO; RX 580 NITRO+ 8GB
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gabrielconroy View Drop Down
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Points: 11 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gabrielconroy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 8:24pm
Thanks, but I know that. I have an MSI GTX 1060 that I've tested in another motherboard (it works).

Can anyone tell me if the fact the speaker not giving any beeps means that it's the motherboard that's kaput? I can send it back and order another one, if so. Costs starting to rack up!
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