Please suggest RAM for z97 pro4

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   dear guysi love you guys man!
i will do as xalter has suggested, and report back.
as for the thermal paste, i did and re-did it three times. and i have seen quite a few youtube videos on the matter. i believe that i have gotten this right the third time.

the issues in particular are:
the cpu cooler plastic supports are just about equal to the height of the heatsink profile. so as soon as you try placing the heatsink, it smears the paste. with attempts to push the feet in and turn them, much smearing has already taken place.
the plastic supports are quite flimsy and even after being firmly seated, there is some play between the four holes on the mobo and the expanded feet of the plastic supports.
the teeny-weeny 'manual' that comes bundled with the intel processor is pathetic (if i may say so)
the heatsink that come in the pack with the processor already has three thin strips of greyish thermal paste (in my opinion). i had to wipe this off at the risk of loosing warranty (i understand that that the warranty is void if this is not used to mount the cpu (correct me if i am wrong)). but i was not deterred by this prospect. so i went ahead and wiped the three stripes of the intel paste with isopropyl alcohol and went ahead with a 'cooler master' v1 ic value thermal paste.
it is almost impossible to dispense a pea-sized 'glob' with the syringe provided. so i deposited a little and smeared it with a plastic spoon that came with the thermal paste.
as an aside, peas occur in a variety of sizes.

that was just a low down from a lay man's point of view.

now for my doubt.

dear parsec, what about my seasonic psu model? when i did a google search with that string, it took me to some croatian, serbian language pages (i think). does my model pass the test?

very many warm regards

Edited by car313 - 01 Sep 2015 at 12:24am

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car313 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Status: Offline Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote car313 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 Aug 2015 at 11:30pm
	dear guys i love you guys man! i will do as xalter has suggested, and report back. as for the thermal paste, i did and re-did it three times. and i have seen quite a few youtube videos on the matter. i believe that i have gotten this right the third time. the issues in particular are: the cpu cooler plastic supports are just about equal to the height of the heatsink profile. so as soon as you try placing the heatsink, it smears the paste. with attempts to push the feet in and turn them, much smearing has already taken place. the plastic supports are quite flimsy and even after being firmly seated, there is some play between the four holes on the mobo and the expanded feet of the plastic supports. the teeny-weeny 'manual' that comes bundled with the intel processor is pathetic (if i may say so) the heatsink that come in the pack with the processor already has three thin strips of greyish thermal paste (in my opinion). i had to wipe this off at the risk of loosing warranty (i understand that that the warranty is void if this is not used to mount the cpu (correct me if i am wrong)). but i was not deterred by this prospect. so i went ahead and wiped the three stripes of the intel paste with isopropyl alcohol and went ahead with a 'cooler master' v1 ic value thermal paste. it is almost impossible to dispense a pea-sized 'glob' with the syringe provided. so i deposited a little and smeared it with a plastic spoon that came with the thermal paste. as an aside, peas occur in a variety of sizes. that was just a low down from a lay man's point of view. now for my doubt. dear parsec, what about my seasonic psu model? when i did a google search with that string, it took me to some croatian, serbian language pages (i think). does my model pass the test? very many warm regards Edited by car313 - 01 Sep 2015 at 12:24am

car313 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Status: Offline Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote car313 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 12:46am
	one more thing dear xalter the 24 pin connector as well as the 4+4 pin connector and the 6+2 connectors have a kind of latching mechanism on the male connectors (from the psu). so they (the 24 pin, the 4+4 and the 6+2 pci-e male from the psu) can be 'wrongly' inserted only by disregarding the plastic latch. not otherwise. but it appears to me that the pentagonal male pins can enter the square holes of the female connector but NOT vice versa. that adds another layer of variability. with very many thanks and with regards

parsec Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996	Post Options Post Reply Quote parsec Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 1:43am
	car313, is this your PSU: The latch on the connector on the cable coming from the PSU will of course force the correct orientation of the connector in the female connector on the board. I would be very surprised if the 4+4 connector on the PSU cable did not fit in the motherboard's female connector. If you try it, it should slide in easily, before the latch will catch and hold it in place. Don't worry about the shapes on the male connector, just try to put it in. If it is correct, it will easily fit into the connector on the board. Seasonic is one of the best PSU manufactures in the world. I can't imagine they did not make a compatible connector for the CPU power connection. Or that this connector has changed at some point. The latch on the 4+4 and the 6+2 connectors are different, and easily identifies each cable: The 4+4 CPU power connector has a larger, dual latch, which allows it to be connected to boards that only have a four pin connector on the board. The PCI-E 6+2 connector on its cable has a much smaller latch. Identifying which is which should be easy.


car313 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Status: Offline Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote car313 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 9:26am
	dear parsec yes. this is my psu. and thanks for your last photograph of a bombshell. sometimes (such as this time) i wish i was younger! she made my day! ;) with the best regards

car313 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Status: Offline Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote car313 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 11:51am
	dear xalter i tried booting the system with only one 4 pin out of the 8 pins. you know the 8 pin connector is in two blocks of 4. the same thing. no luck. i wrote about how one time the system stayed on for about an hour before i switched it off and tried rebooting and then it went back to being a bad boy. i noticed at that time the 3 voltages were constant and the 3 digits after the decimal stayed steady. the temp was fluctuating between 55 and 58 degrees celsius. so can i suspect the psu? i have an old computer in which the psu has a 20 pin atx connector and a 4 pin auxiliary power connector. would i be damaging anything on the new mobo by trying it out with this older psu? will be eagerly waiting for your response. by the way i just now tried booting my very old computer and it booted fine except that i do not have a ps/2 keyboard and mouse or a hdd or an optical drive. but the bios welcome screen comes on after a single beep. so in principle if i added a hdd and an optical drive along with the ps/2 keyboard and mouse, it should work. shall i try with the older psu from this sytem?

Xaltar Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 24638	Post Options Post Reply Quote Xaltar Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 12:05pm
	I wouldn't try an old PSU like that as it will not provide adequate power for the newer board. In your testing do you have your graphics card installed or are you using the display output from the motherboard? If you are using the graphics card you can try removing it from the system and use the onboard graphics. I doubt it is the problem but the system will draw less power and it may help identify where the problem is.

car313 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Status: Offline Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote car313 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 12:37pm
	dear xalter the setup consists of- 1) the motherboard 2) 1 X 8GB ram stick 3) cpu 4) heat sink + fan no i removed the graphics card as well as the ssd, hdd, and optical drive. the display is connected to the vga socket on the motherboard. with regards ps. this is an edit. in the uefi the clock speed of the ram is shown as 1333 mhz, whereas i purchased what i thought was a 1600 mhz module. i did not change any setting except in the beginning i once loaded motherboard defaults when it first gave me trouble. do you think i was gypped by the ram vendor? Edited by car313 - 01 Sep 2015 at 12:41pm

Xaltar Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 24638	Post Options Post Reply Quote Xaltar Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 2:18pm
	No, the RAM needs to be set to 1600 in the bios using XMP, but that is not of concern for now, first we need to figure out what is wrong with your system. The RAM will default to 1333, this is normal. At this point I don't know what else to suggest, you could try and get your hands on a cheap second PSU to test with (preferably borrow one) and see if that makes a difference though I find it hard to believe you received a faulty PSU from Seasonic, as Parsec said, they are the best there is. Still, it isn't impossible. Also make sure you have no case switches connected to the motherboard when testing, use a metal object (screwdriver etc) to bridge the power on jumpers on the board. A sticky power or reset switch can cause problems as well as having LEDs hooked up where a switch should be. Check that your RAM is fully seated into the slot, sometimes they lock but are not properly in.

car313 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Status: Offline Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote car313 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 3:05pm
	dear xalter i cut a 3 inch piece of a single core insulated copper telephone wire. i removed the insulation from about 1/2 an inch at one end, and bent this end into an 'L' shape. i am using this to short the power button pins on the front panel connector on the motherboard. the long arm of the 'L' is insulated while the short arm is naked. i hold this on the insulated end and i touch the short arm of the 'L' to the two pins of the power button to boot the system. like i said, i am quite sure of the ram seating, the thermal paste and power connectors. i checked, rechecked and then checked again. i am also considering removing the intel-provided heat sink+fan and order a proprietary cpu cooler. or do you feel that may be immaterial? another time i want to ask. the system once booted and stayed on for about an hour. actually it was i who turned it off. generally the longest it lasts is about 8 minutes. more like 6 most of the times. from room temp start. that is. would you consider that this one hour of uptime is incidental? i feel that there is something to that one-time one-hour uptime. i do not know if it would have gone into a reboot cycle, given enough time. but i also believe that about one hour of uptime should be enough to trigger any heat related faults as well as fluctuating voltage issues. by the way i do not have a ups (a battery backup, i mean). my system is directly connected to the wall outlet. in our area we generally have steady power. at least, i have never lost any computer or files on computers on account of power outages. or do you think, i should get a ups? (i am going to get one, but if this could have a favourable impact on the outcome, i do not mind buying it immediately, off the shelf) with many regards Edited by car313 - 01 Sep 2015 at 3:10pm

parsec Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996	Post Options Post Reply Quote parsec Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2015 at 4:00pm
	I just noticed this in a post by car313, at the top of page 6 of this thread. I just copied the text rather than quoting. "the issues in particular are: the cpu cooler plastic supports are just about equal to the height of the heatsink profile. so as soon as you try placing the heatsink, it smears the paste. with attempts to push the feet in and turn them, much smearing has already taken place. *the plastic supports are quite flimsy and even after being firmly seated, there is some play between the four holes on the mobo and the expanded feet of the plastic supports." This is a description of mounting the stock Intel CPU cooler. The first thing that troubles me is the, "... push the feet in and turn them". If I'm understanding this correctly, you are doing it wrong. Turning the push pin's head is only done when removing the cooler. When you mount it you should not be turning anything, only pushing in the four push pins. I'm guessing you turned the four push pin heads to remove the cooler, that is fine. You turn it to the unlock position, and pull up. But BEFORE you mount the cooler again, you must turn the head of each push pin back from the unlock position. It sounds like you are pushing the push pin into place, and then turning it from the unlocked position. I can't predict what happens when that is done, but given what you said next, it seems to not work correctly. That was this: "there is some play between the four holes on the mobo and the expanded feet of the plastic supports".* There should be no play at all between cooler mounting holes and the expanded push pins, or the top of the mother board and the contact pad on each push pin. I'm wondering if we have a simple CPU overheating problem caused by a bad CPU cooler mount. Sorry car313, I can't see how your CPU cooler is mounted and I can only know what you tell us. It has been a long time since I used a stock Intel CPU cooler, but I'm pretty sure it should not be loose, have play between it and the board, or be able to twist it a bit from side to side. If you were having an CPU over heating problem, you would see the CPU temperature in the H/W Monitor screen go a bit above 100C, and then the CPU would start throttling itself in an attempt to reduce its temperature. A processor runs at its full speed when using the BIOS UI, its power saving features (if enabled) are not active when in the BIOS. Eventually if the CPU did not cool off, or the BIOS crashes because of the lower CPU speed, the PC restarts. You would need to watch the CPU temperature in the H/W Monitor screen to see if it goes that high. Just another theory regarding what your problem is. This scared me too... for a little while: and thanks for your last photograph of a bombshell. sometimes (such as this time) i wish i was younger! she made my day! ;) I was worried I download the wrong picture somehow, nothing like that on this PC.