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ASRockH170M-ITX/ac won't POST |
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permelquedon ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Much to my chagrin, I tested with a new power supply and I'm exactly where I started. I even tried a jumper on the power switch connector on the motherboard to rule out a faulty power switch on the case.
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wardog ![]() Moderator Group ![]() Joined: 15 Jul 2015 Status: Offline Points: 6447 |
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Ok. Now it's time to remove it all from the case it's presently in, and build it up atop the BARE box the MB came in.
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permelquedon ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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I got frustrated with the build so I had to let it alone for awhile, but I am coming back to it now with a vengeance. (This is literally the most trouble I've ever had trying to get a system built and I started in the 90s!)
Anyway, I've got it out of the case with the power button jumpered and I'm still seeing the exact same behavior as before. When I turn on the power, I hear a faint "click" from the power supply and nothing else happens. I've tried 2 different power supplies, 2 different sets of power cables, 2 sets of RAM, 2 MOTHERBOARDS! And still the darn thing will not power on. This is after I had ASRock support send me a 1.3 BIOS that would supposedly support my Pentium G4400. So I've tried about everything I can think of now. Can anyone offer up what I should try next? Thanks!
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parsec ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996 |
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Please try the following: First, so sorry but I must ask, do you have the power cable from the PSU to the four pin CPU power connector on the board connected? Remove the jumper from the power button pins on the system panel header, which I assume is how you are jumping the power button. You should only need to momentarily short the two pins on the system panel header to get the board running. Now that you have the new BIOS chip installed, at least do a BIOS clear with the jumper. You may want to do a full BIOS clear by removing the battery from the board and moving the BIOS jumper to the clear position. The full BIOS clear may be necessary, which may take some time. The capacitors in your board should not have much of a charge, so it may not take hours to completely clear. Replace battery and put the BIOS jumper on the normal position. With only the PSU, CPU, CPU cooler, and memory connected to the board, try and start it by shorting the power button pins with a screwdriver momentarily. Even with a BIOS version that did not support your CPU, I can't imagine the board just doing nothing, and all that happens is a click sound from the PSU. I'm not saying that did/does not happen! Yes it would fail to POST, and the POST beep speaker would give the CPU failure signal, but the board would at least start, fans would spin, etc. But in your case, the CPU cooler fan does not start to spin, or at most just jerks for a moment and then does nothing, right? Given all this, doesn't that seem like the PSU is shutting itself off due to a fault it is detecting? Its protection circuitry is shutting it off, right? If you agree, the question becomes, what is causing the PSU to protect itself? It sounds like you know enough to not let the board short itself out from the bottom, when just sitting outside of a PC case. So is the stock CPU cooler fan shorted? Or a cable from the keyboard or mouse? I know this is your second board of the same model, etc. But IMO something is stopping the PSU from starting. I know you used two PSUs, which is another reason why I feel something is keeping the PSU from starting. |
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Xaltar ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 25813 |
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In my experience the symptoms you are describing can only come from a few possible causes:
1. A bad PSU 2. A short somewhere 3. No CPU installed/detected Perform a full CMOS clear as Parsec suggested. If I pull the CPU from my H170 Combo board and try to power up the system without it I get the exact same result as you. Given you have tried 2 different PSUs and I am assuming you are running the board outside the case as Wardog suggested earlier in the thread I would start with checking the CPU is installed correctly. Remove the CPU from the board and check for any damaged/bent pins. Check to be sure there is no warping of the CPU itself, this can happen if it is installed in the wrong orientation and clamped down. If all is well on the CPU front then strip the board down to just the 4 pin power, 24 pin power, 1 stick of RAM is slot A1 or B1 and the CPU. Let us know how it goes.
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permelquedon ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Thanks for the reply.
The 4 pin CPU power connector is connected. I am doing a BIOS clear (I assume that means a jumper on pins 2 and 3) now, but strangely I can't find the battery on this particular board for the life of me. Anyway, I'll give it a bit of time and try again. Currently the only thing connected is the power connectors and 2 sticks of RAM (I'll try with 1 as well). You are correct about the CPU fan. It doesn't move at all when I power on. The only evidence is the click from the power supply which I am also assuming is the protection circuitry. I'm curious about what you mean with regards to the CPU fan being shorted? IT is well mounted and isn't touching any circuitry on the board. At this point the only thing I can guess is that I have a defective or physically damaged CPU. I'll try here again in a few minutes after doing the CMOS clear. Thanks!
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permelquedon ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Well, I removed the CPU and inspected it and all looks well. I used a magnifying glass to inspect the pins on the socket and that all looks fine as well. I just tried a new CPU (an i3 instead of a Pentium) and I'm back at square zero. I've now tried: * 2 CPUs of differing types * 2 motherboards * 2 BIOSes * 2 sets of RAM * 2 different power supplies And all with the exact same results. I am at a loss ...
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