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Water Pump Header (X370) |
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twf85 
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Joined: 08 Mar 2017 Location: Tucson, AZ Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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 Topic: Water Pump Header (X370)Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 3:07am |
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I initially plugged the water pump (Corsair H60) into the header labeled "CPU_OPT/W_PUMP", but I later read in the manual that header is "Chassis Optional/Water Pump Fan Connector". So I swapped the connectors around, placing the pump into "CPU_FAN1"/"CPU Fan Connector", and placed the cooler's fan into the other location.
After looking in the BIOS, changing the "CPU_OPT/W_PUMP" to "Water Pump" mode changes the description above for that header to "Water Pump Speed". So which is it? Also, can anyone tell me if I should be selecting "DC" or "PWM" mode? Currently I have the H60 setup with two fans in Push/Pull, both currently designated "Water Pump" in the BIOS, with "DC" and "Full Speed" selected. The cooler is plugged into the CPU_FAN1 header, set to "Full Speed".
Edited by twf85 - 11 Mar 2017 at 3:18am |
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Xaltar
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Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 3:53am |
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On my H105 I have my radiator fans hooked up to CPU_1 (with a Y splitter) and my pump hooked up to CPU_OPT/W_PUMP. I have CPU_OPT set to water pump and DC full speed just as you do and my fans set to a custom fan curve that drops to almost a complete stop below 30c and ramp up from 30c to max fan speed @65c. The silent setting also works fine. I am using a Z270 Gaming K6 and an i5 7600k clocked at 5ghz but the setup should be no different for you. I would ramp up to full fan speed at about 60c in your case as the H60 has a smaller radiator.
Don't set your radiator fans as water pump, they are fans not pumps. Set them to PWM. So the pump (the cable that comes from the CPU block) should go to any of the headers that have /water pump and be set to water pump and DC full speed. Fans should be set to PWM and I like to set a custom fan curve with the fans set to 0% up to 30c then a straight line from 0% @30c all the way to 100% at 60c. I find this gives me the a nice quiet system while browsing and doing basic tasks while keeping the system cool under load conditions at the cost of some noise. If you don't care about noise then go ahead and set the fans to PWM and full speed. The water pump is located in the CPU block, the fans do not pump the coolant, all they do is push air through the Radiator to cool the coolant. I just got my first AIO cooler (the h105) a few months back and tinkered with it for weeks before finding this setup to be most effective. It is also best to have the fans blowing the hot air out of the case rather than as intakes.
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twf85
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Joined: 08 Mar 2017 Location: Tucson, AZ Status: Offline Points: 144 |
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Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 6:39am |
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Well, I followed your instructions, so hopefully it is at least setup right now. The performance is about the same.. No overclock, hovering around ~55C (lowest I've seen it go to is 51.38C) at idle.
I do have it set to OC Mode in the Voltage Settings area.. I wonder if that is affecting the temps. I would have hoped for a lower temp. 50-70C starts making me a bit nervous.
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parsec
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Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 9:58am |
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Labels for headers and connectors on a board use abbreviations. CPU_OPT is CPU Optional Fan, and W_PUMP is Water Pump. The manual is written by a native Chinese speaker in Taiwan, so it may not be grammatically perfect in every instance. Since you can change the mode of that header's operation in the BIOS, from CPU Optional to Water Pump, that header is one or the other. The header behaves differently depending upon the setting. An AIO cooler like the H60, which I have used in the past, has a three pin fan connector for the pump. Three pin connectors are always used with voltage/DC type fans or pumps, and are not PWM controlled. PWM control is always four pin. Since the pumps of AIO coolers like this are rather weak, they should always be running at full speed to insure good circulation of the cooling liquid. A three pin fan header set to full speed will work with this pump, but I connected the pump directly to the PSU with a molex to three pin adapter. Connecting a three pin fan or pump to a four pin PWM header in PWM mode, will always run the fan or pump at full speed. PWM fans or PWM controlled pumps have four pin connectors, and while they can be controlled by the voltage/DC of a three pin header, the speed range of a four pin fan or pump will be less on a three pin header. DC = three pin equivalent voltage control. PWM = four pin Pulse Width Modulation control, only for use with four pin fans or pumps. If you want to run the fans on your H60 (stock fan? SOOO Loud! You use two fans, so who knows what they are) at full speed all the time, feel free to do that. You CPU temperature seems high at idle. Do you have the appropriate AM4 mounting kit for your H60? Do the instructions say it is AM4 compatible? I've seen Corsair offering AM4 mounting kits for some of their H series AIO coolers, but the H60 was not one of them. If you bought the H60 a while ago, I doubt it is truly AM4 compatible. |
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twf85
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Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 12:01pm |
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I never should have read further into the manual  It seemed clear to me when I was putting it together that is what those labels meant.From what I did read in the manual, I was left with the impression that the writer was in a hurry to finish. I didn't get the impression at the time that English wasn't the writers first language. So Kudos to them for doing as well as they did.
Excellent info, thank you!
I recently had to replace some aging fans, and bought a CoolerMaster four pack. They're a little on the slow side (~1200rpm), but they are very quiet.
I watched a video on YouTube that said this H60 was AM4 compatible, so I went ahead and ordered it. My HAF 912 can't really accommodate anything larger than a single 120 radiator. In my push/pull config, I actually have the "pull" fan located on the outside of the case (which makes reaching behind the computer "fun" sometimes). Where do you think the temps should be settling at? I could try changing the Voltage setting from "OC Mode" to (I believe) "Normal Mode", but that's really the only thing I messed with. I tried OC'ing the processor up to 4Ghz, but it idled around 65-70, and that made me uncomfortable. My 8350 idled around 30-40C when I had it pushed to 4.2-4.4, with a similar cooler.
The page on NewEgg has it listed as "AMD AM4 Compatible", so I think I'm good there. It was a bit of a stretch to get the clips around the notches in the stock heatsink brackets, but I did eventually get them on. I didn't much like the flex (in the AMD H60 "holder" that sits on top of the cooler) after it was tightened down, so perhaps I fastened it too tightly.
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wardog
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Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 8:11pm |
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The Hydro kits that use the stock topside plastic heatsink retention bracket and the TWO "hoop' style fasteners and thumbscrews to secure are AM4 compatible. If the Hydro kit req's an included backplate or otherwise req's FOUR thumbscrews the User will need to order an AM4 Compatible bracket if, at this writing, it wasn't purchased, like, yesterday. I've been told old inventory was pulled, but .......... See here, about 5/8ths the way down (damn Corsair site trickery) http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ryzen |
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wardog
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Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 8:38pm |
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Image courtesy of ekwb.com
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parsec
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Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 12:23am |
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I was not sure about the H60 AMD mounting, and I've seen Corsair offering AM4 kits for some of their other H Series coolers, so I was concerned it might be an issue. Plus I've never mounted an H60 on an AMD board.
Your idle temps seem high to me as well, but I'm still waiting to get a Ryzen system, I can't get the board I want. So I can't offer advise from experience. The manual for your board shows both Cool n Quiet and C6 Mode enabled by default, in the Advanced, CPU Configuration screen. That normally reduces the CPU temperature at idle. Is the CPU speed/frequency dropping down at idle in Windows? But as we have seen with the latest Intel processor boards, the Auto/default VCore values are way more than necessary. That is done as a precaution, since it is impossible to predict how the processors will be at first. What do you see as the VCore in the H/W Monitor screen? It won't be identical in Windows, can you get a VCore reading in Windows? Do you use the standard Balanced Windows Power Plan? The CM fans you have on the H60 are quiet, but as they are designed as quiet case fans, I wonder how well they work as radiator fans. The radiators on H series coolers are more restrictive to air flow than other radiators, in general. The stock H60 fan is four pin PWM, and goes up to 2,000RPM at least, with high static pressure, better for radiators. Did you ever try that fan? Connecting it to the CPU_FAN1 header would be optimal. Did you ever look at the Fan-Tastic Tuning feature for fan speed configuration, in the H/W Monitor screen? I see it listed in the manual, but not in the screen shot, so not sure if it is there.  It would be useful to configure the CPU fan speed so it would not be too loud, if that bothers you. |
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twf85
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Posted: 13 Mar 2017 at 4:28am |
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The only other thing I can think of is perhaps I didn't apply enough thermal paste. I use a card, like a debit card (in my case an old AAA card), and spread a thin layer across the top of the CPU. Awhile back, I would also spread a layer on the heatsink, but after seeing how much paste would end up on the sides of the CPU, I stopped doing that. I'm wondering now if I should re-apply, and perhaps crank it down a little less.
Which board were you aiming for? I just kept hitting refresh at 10-15 minute intervals (on 3/1) until it became available for pre-order again. So someone must have backed out, or they got more in-stock. While I was waiting for it to arrive, I realized the Taichi board had everything I really wanted (namely two M.2 slots that were at least 20Gbps). Kind of cursed myself for being so impulsive. But the Creative software seems to have improved my audio experience, and the 5Gpbs LAN port may come in handy at some point.
No matter what I'm doing, it seems like it never waivers much from 3.7Ghz (it'll dip about 50Mhz in CPU-Z, but that's about it).
  If by "Vcore" you mean the Core Voltage, in CPU-Z it is showing as 1.216V. I wasn't sure, so I included pics. I am running in Performance Mode for my Power Plan.
Alright, I'll definitely try that. I didn't think there would be much difference between them, so I figured I would save the one that came with the cooler for when another fan died.
It is there! I'm not sure if it came with the original BIOS, but it is there in 1.50. Took awhile for it to Tune, and because my temps were so much higher than Xaltar's, I didn't go that route. Just set everything to the max. Noise isn't much of an issue right now, as I have an AC unit running in this room that drowns out pretty much everything else.
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twf85
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Posted: 06 Apr 2017 at 5:13am |
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Not to bump an old thread, but I replaced the slower fan with the stock Corsair, and it actually seemed to help a little bit. I also installed the latest version of HWMonitor to see if I could get a better look at the temps. The temps under the MOBO for the CPU were much lower than that reported under the CPU, so I boosted the proc to 4GHz, and it seems to be running fine..
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twf85 wrote: