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New I3 8100 Coffee Lake system crashing |
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CJ133 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2017 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 5:41am |
Hi All,
Just put together a new system and it's behaving pretty bad. All seemed to go well, other than an odd "on, off, back on" behavior when you first start the system but I'm assuming it's normal for this motherboard, but don't know for sure. I've pulled everything I can to get down to the bare minimum and it's still failing. Last thing I pulled was the M2 hard drive in hopes maybe that was the cause, but still no luck. I've also pulled one DIMM out, and when it still crashed swapped that with the other one and same result. The last attempt using only the slow 4TB Blue HDD I finally got Windows to install, and when it restarted off of the HDD it crashed. Never had a problem in UEFI setup, and Memtest86 ran 3 loops off of a thumb drive with zero errors. I also tried to install Ubunutu and it too crashed and restarted while installing. Had the bios check for updates and it says it's up to date. The Windows 10 installer blue screens appear to be one of two errors depending on when it happens. If it happens early on it's MACHINE CHECK EXCEPTION. If it happens later, such as while partitioning the disk it's always WHEA UNCORRECTABLE ERROR. I've tried disabling everything i can think of such as Bluetooth and wifi. I've also tried underclocking the ram, no luck. Reset the bios to stock, no luck. ASRock Fatal1ty Z370 Gaming-ITX/ac G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Intel Z170 Platform Memory Kit Model F4-3000C15D-16GVKB EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 06G-P4-6163-KR, 6GB GDDR5 SAMSUNG 850 EVO M.2 2280 500GB SATA III 3D NAND Internal SSD Seasonic FOCUS Plus Series SSR-650FX 650W 80+ Gold ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular Intel Core i3-8100 Coffee Lake Quad-Core 3.6 GHz LGA 1151 (300 Series) 65W BX80684I38100 4TB WD Blue drive which I don't have the exact info handy. I'm using the OEM heatsink with the processor. Like I said though, at this point all I'm running is the motherboard, 8100 processor, ram and the mechanical HDD. I feel like I'm up a river right now. Not sure what to do. |
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parsec ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996 |
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If you can run the UEFI UI indefinitely without a problem, then it does not seem like the board is the problem. Are you installing Windows 10, etc, from a USB flash drive? Did you have both the M.2 SSD and the HDD in the PC at the same time when installing Windows? I would try either removing the HDD, inserting the M.2 SSD only, and try installing Windows 10. When you boot the USB flash drive, be sure to check the boot order, and select the entry that is "UEFI: <flash drive name>". You should only have one drive in the PC when you install Windows, since if more than one drive is active in the PC during the installation, then Windows will put the boot/system partition on another drive besides the target OS drive, which you don't want to happen. If you're used the HDD in another PC, it may have a boot partition on it that is causing the BSOD. Or it could simply be a bad SATA data cable. I would replace the SATA data cable regardless of any success installing Windows on the M.2 SSD. |
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CJ133 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2017 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Thank you for taking the time to read my post and respond. I have tried every combination imaginable. Both the M2 and HDD. Then just the M2, then just the HDD. I know what you're talking about regarding Windows putting stuff wherever it feels like. Both drives were empty when I started each round, I deleted all partitions etc. Generally, this is right about where the Win 10 installer crashes, right when I click to install on the selected empty drive. However, if I just let it sit at the first screen long enough it'll blue screen as well. Installing Windows 10 off of a thumb drive. Have tried a different thumb drive, have tried creating one using MS's tool as well as Rufus. Right now, all I have hooked up is the motherboard, ram, processor and the one 4TB HDD. Part of me is hoping a UFEI update is all I need, maybe that's just unrealistic. Edited by CJ133 - 13 Nov 2017 at 9:17am |
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CJ133 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2017 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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So,
Newegg's tech support RMA'd the motherboard and because they were out of stock I bought the cheaper non-gaming ITX board. No change, still blue screens although I have noticed a few odd things. First, it seems as if as it gets warmer, things improve. It bluescreens immediately the first time, not as soon the next etc. After multiple attempts I got Windows 10 to install and then it gets even weirder. It'll run Prime95 no problem at all, but unzipping a file is rough. I feel like I'm in bizzaro land or something. The main error I get is WHEA UNCORRECTABLE ERROR. The other is MACHINE CHECK EXCEPTION How can a computer run Memtest86 for multiple loops fine, and even Prime95 fine and not perform normal, every day tasks like opening Facebook!?!? |
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Xaltar ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 27608 |
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"Improves as it warms up"
That would typically lean me towards PSU or RAM issues. That PSU is a solid brand/model but it wouldn't hurt to reseat all your leads (at both ends). Failing that, try the system with a different PSU. The CPU heats up instantly once powered on, the same goes for VRMs on the board and the likelihood that 2 different model boards have the exact same issue is very, very low. If they were both the same model and came from the same manufacturing batch then I would concede the possibility that the board could be bad twice. To my mind the order of likely culprits goes as follows: RAM PSU CPU I say RAM because memtest is not a definitive measure of RAM stability. Memtest will tell you if there are bad chips on the modules but not if there are power/compatibility issues. Try testing a single module of RAM and see if that improves the situation, it could simply be a case of incompatible RAM.
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CJ133 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2017 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Thank you for commenting.
I had tried one stick at a time with the previous motherboard and swapped them to make sure one wasn't causing the problem. The ram I have isn't on the supported ram list from ASROCK, but a lot of ram with similar numbers is. For example, Mine is G Skill : F4-3000C15D-16GVKB That's not there but F4-3000C15D-GTZ is. Is it worth trying to get the exact number listed on the support is or should I try to RMA the ram for the same exact model? |
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Xaltar ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Offline Points: 27608 |
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I would try some RAM that is on the QVL.
With RAM a single letter difference in the model name can denote completely different components. I am not all that familiar with G-Skill's naming conventions but just an educated guess tells me: 3000C15D = 3000mhz, C15 timings, Double sided That means that the numbers/letters after the "-" must denote what type of RAM chip is used and capacity. Hynix or Samsung, what voltage is required etc. In other words, similar model numbers mean nothing with regards to compatibility. All the 2 model names you provided tell you is that both kits are 3000mhz, C15 models, their are likely dozens of models from G-Skill that have that information in the model number, each one different. RAM is a tricky thing these days with so many standards, availability issues and different architectures it needs to work with. Sometimes, with older boards, RAM from the QVL that is made more recently no longer works with a board. This is because the RAM manufacturer used different components on the "new" modules, the specs of these parts may be the same on paper (hence no name change) but one will be compatible (original) and the other (newer) is not. So for future reference, you can't base compatibility on similar model names. I hope this info is helpful
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CJ133 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2017 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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It was exteemly helpful, thank you. Sadly, I'm still limping along on my 8 year old I5 750 system. I ordered 32GB of a ram that is listed in the QVL but Amazon once again failed to deliver next day. Maybe It's just me but it seems like anytime I do next day shipping with them, they delay shipping it a day so I still get it 2 days later (or in this case + weekend = Monday). So, the new system is sitting here quiet and dark. Next time I'll just spend the extra to get it from Newegg. They have yet to let me down in 10+ years. I've just got this bad feeling the new ram isn't going to fix it and I'm going to end up RMAing the processor. I've never had a bad processor in the 23 years I've been at this with both Intel and AMD, but I suppose there's always a first. Even overclocking I've never had one fail. The ram I ordered is G Skill F4-2400C15D-32GVR. Figured while I'm wasting time I might as well double the ram while I'm at it.
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parsec ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996 |
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I highly doubt your memory is the problem, your model of G.SKILL memory includes several ASRock Z370 boards in the list. The board is not the major factor determining memory compatibility, it is first the processor, since it contains the memory controller.
Check the QVL list on G.SKILL's page: https://www.gskill.com/en/product/f4-3000c15d-16gvkb Your new memory has the same compatibility as the other model you have, but at a lower rated speed. Higher amounts of memory are more difficult to OC, but the new memory is not an over clocking model, so should work fine at its rated speed. If the BSODs stop with the new memory, that would seem to indicate your processor is simply not the greatest for memory over clocks. https://www.gskill.com/en/product/f4-2400c15d-32gvr Given the symptoms, IMO you have a driver problem causing the BSODs. Do you have Windows 10 configured to allow automatic driver updates? That is one of the FIRST things I disable in Windows 10, since it has caused nothing but problems in my experience. When I install Windows 10, I never have the PC connected to the Internet. Once it is installed, I manually install all the drivers (INF files, IME software, storage, LAN, video, audio, etc, drivers and software. Only after that do I connect the PC to the Internet, and never allow Windows to install drivers. I've had the worst problems when Windows 10 installs video drivers for video cards. For Nvidia based cards, running the driver installer manually prompts you for input at several points during the installation. We get none of that when Windows installs the driver. That alone is not good. How do you install drivers and basic software for the board? Your 850 EVO is an M.2 SSD? If so, which M.2 slot are you using? The M2_1, just above the first PCIe slot? Have you ever checked the temperature of that SSD? Your focus has been only on hardware problems, but we know it's not the first board that was the issue. I've also never had a bad processor, and also never had a bad board. Given your symptoms, I would consider driver or software problems as being more likely the cause of the BSODs. What is the source of your Windows 10 installation? An optical disk or ISO download from MSoft? |
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CJ133 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2017 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Hi parsec, thank you for taking the time to comment.
I noticed this as well, however my current ram is not on Asrock's QVL list. G Skill does list it, but AsRock does not. At least not for the two specific motherboards I've had. I thought that was kind of funny and I checked several times to make sure I didn't miss something. I've tried installing Win 10 from both flash drive, and from a DVD drive now. I've tried it with and without internet though it's often crashed as soon as the installer boots. I've also tried to install Ubuntu which just randomly reboots half way through the process and tries again. The fact Ubuntu crashed repeatedly leads me to believe it's not a software issue. The M2 drive is installed in the only socket which is on top next to the pcie slot, I don't see a second slot on this board and I tried removing the SSD completely and just running a 4TB WD drive with the same results. I do not believe the drive is running warm at all. For the ram speed, I'm not running it overclocked. The speed I started with right off the bat was 2133MHz @ 1.2 volts. I never ran it at 3000 MHz because it's not supported by the processor nor is 1.35V. I also tried several lower speeds and worse timings, nothing helped. Right now I'm wondering if I should try a different mouse other than my old Logitech G9, and if I should, as much as I don't want to, try my 8 year old Corsair PSU which is running the computer I'm posting from. I know the voltages looked good on the new Seasonic, including when running Prime95, but I don't know that there isn't noise of some sort. ![]() ![]() |
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