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Fried Fatal1ty Z77 Pro?
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MatuX View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 Jul 2016 at 1:10pm
Hey guys,

Had an accident with water cooling Cry, fried my PSU. Replaced it, but computer still won't turn on. Turned on the PSU with the "paperclip trick" to make sure it was working and it is.

Motherboard's power smart switch won't work either, and I don't see any lights that would indicate the motherboard is receiving power.

Do you guys have any ideas how can I make sure mother is fried or if I made a mistake? Been looking at the whole thing for 2 hours now and everything seems in order.

Thanks
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Xaltar View Drop Down
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If you know exactly where the spill occurred and what area of the motherboard was effected you can take a toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol and gently scrub the board and surrounding components in that area and anywhere the water may have run. When done use a can of compressed air (or a compressor) and blow around where the spill occurred. If that fails you can try a hair dryer on high heat.

The problem with water damage is that when power is transferred by the water it creates a trace that will remain even when the water has evaporated. With this in mind try and make sure every possible trace the water created is scrubbed clear. If this does not work then the water damaged physical components on the board and it will need to be replaced.
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Thank you, Xaltar. Yeah, I did try my best to clean and dry the board two days ago. Left it two days before I went back and try again when I got my new PSU. The problem with coolant is that, while it's not as conductive as water, it's hard to dry and evaporate.

The only thing I hope is that it wasn't the PSU overcharging components, I've a very pricey Titan X I bought about a year ago.

The mobo (asrock fatal1ty) and mem lasted me ~2.5 years, cpu (i5 2500k) lasted me around 5 years.

I've given up and bought new stuff, already.

The mobo is dead, long live the mobo. :)

I appreciate the prompt answer.
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Sorry to hear that. Good luck with the new mobo Thumbs Up
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Originally posted by MatuX MatuX wrote:

Thank you, Xaltar. Yeah, I did try my best to clean and dry the board two days ago. Left it two days before I went back and try again when I got my new PSU. The problem with coolant is that, while it's not as conductive as water, it's hard to dry and evaporate.

The only thing I hope is that it wasn't the PSU overcharging components, I've a very pricey Titan X I bought about a year ago.

The mobo (asrock fatal1ty) and mem lasted me ~2.5 years, cpu (i5 2500k) lasted me around 5 years.

I've given up and bought new stuff, already.

The mobo is dead, long live the mobo. :)

I appreciate the prompt answer.


A PSU will only supply the power the components you are using "ask for". But, a high wattage PSU can supply more power into a short circuit situation than a lower wattage model.

The over current and short circuit protection features of a good PSU should shut it off before damage will occur. Of course, nothing is perfect, and a catastrophic, multiple short circuit situation that occurs when liquid is spilled onto a mother board might be beyond what any PSU can do to protect a mother board from being damaged.

When power is removed from a mother board, meaning the PSU was shut off and the AC power cord was disconnected, or the PSU was removed, or the board is being powered up for the first time, none of the power LEDs or illuminated switches will light up, when power is applied to the board again when the PSU switch is moved to the On position. Only after the power switch for the board is pressed and the board powers up, will the power and switch LEDs remain lit up, after an OS shutdown, etc.

One trick I found when powering a board up again or for the first time, is to connect a network cable to the network input jack on the IO panel, from an active network connection, a router or switch connected to a router. When the PSU switch is set to the On position, after a few seconds at least one of the small LEDs next to the network input jack will light up. That happens even though the board has not been supplied power via the PC's power switch.

That might not mean the entire board is still functioning after a disaster like you had, but if the LED for the network connection does not light up, that would indicate the board is dead.
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