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Asrock X99 ITX - Died by itself during the night. |
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eucalyptus ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 11 Feb 2016 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 11 Feb 2016 at 1:45am |
Hey,
I have some problems, and I am pretty sure my new X99 ITX board is dead. I thought my psu was dead. But after a psu test (green and ground) it seems to work, it runs the whole systeme except with the motherboard. My system is brand new and has been up and running for maybe a TOTAL of 10 hours. Sunday night, as this picture was taken, everything was absolutely fine. I was finally, almost done with this 8500 usd project. I did as usual, shut down the computer in windows and took out the cable from the wall. At Monday morning I pressed the start button, NOTHING happened. It was more silent than the death itself... There is not a sign of life in this thing.... ![]() Have done all testing I can possible think off. Cleared Bios by changing the pin thing on the motherboard, took out the battery which I took under the multimeter and showed 3V exactly. My Super Flower Leadex Platinum 850W, which is, as all of my parts are some of the best parts money can buy. So I really didn't expect anything to happen. My PSU with a psu tester can run the whole system. But with 20+4 pin connected to the motherboard nothing happens. I do have had a lot of problems with my computer. But it has always started/turned on. Now it's totally dead. So, the computer was running just 24 hours ago flawless without any issues and now dead. Somehow the motherboard must have died by itself during the night, is this even possible?? The PSU just make click, click, click sound when I try to start the computer connected to the motherboard. The motherboard seems to be totally dead. How it could die during my amazingly good night sleep - I don't know! Do you? It's an Asrock X99 ITX, 5820K, HyperX Fury DDR4 2666Mhz, 980 Ti, only SSD's. No HDD at all in this build so before you ask, I KNOW it's the PSU that does the click, click, click sound. I have been taking out the RAM, one by one, and installing them one by one. Took out the WIFI card. Took out GPU. Nothing seems to work. help help help ![]() ![]() I did ask on Overclock.net but didn't get any solution. I am in contact with the shop I bought it from and they are trying to get hold on Asrock. But I thought I would at least give it a 10th final try and ask you professionals here. Maybe a Asrock REP could help me? Just installing the motherboard into this case took 2 hours. Taking it out and install a new one would take around 5-8 Hours. It's one of the most complicated and complexed computers ever ![]() /Sebastian ![]() ![]() |
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Xaltar ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 May 2015 Location: Europe Status: Online Points: 26933 |
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Ok this advice is dubious at best and I do not recommend it if you can still return the board.
I have had similar issues with various boards in the past and in almost every scenario the following worked. Please note, none of these boards were under any kind of warranty (modded) so I had nothing to loose. Disconnect everything from the board except 1 module of RAM, CPU and GPU (GPU only if there isn't an iGPU). Also connect all the power connectors to the board except for the 24 pin. Then with the PSU connected to power and switched on slowly connect the 24pin connector. Yes with the PSU on and with the power button depressed. If the problem is anything like I have experienced the board should then power on. Once the board powers up, firmly seat the 24pin connector then shut down. If all is well it should now power up again as normal. I only ever had to do this once on each of the boards that needed it and still do not know what caused this mystery failure to power on. I will also add that all 4 boards I have done this with were from varying manufacturers. They were also for personal projects, I would never do this on a PC for a client. Again, do not try this if you have another recourse.
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parsec ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 May 2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4996 |
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OMGawd, with the complexity of that build, which I cannot even really see in your pictures, what could be worse than the mother board failing... if it has.
What does "it runs the whole systeme except with the motherboard" mean? I assume that means all the liquid cooling components are working and pumping fine, fans spinning, etc. That would tend to show the +12V rail of the PSU is working fine, since it is a decent enough load on the PSU. If the lighting you are using is powered from the +5V rail, then that rail seems to be working too, although not a high power load. If the lighting is using +12V power, then we can say that the PSU is not being completely "tested", since the +5V and +3.3V rails are not being used. All this is just in an attempt to verify the correct operation of your PSU. PSUs like yours use the +12V rail to derive the +5V and +3.3V rails. That's a good design, but means those other two rails can have a component failure that does not affect the +12V rail. Assuming you are using all new major components in this build, mother board, CPU, cooling components, memory, and PSU, regardless of their quality, any potential failures will occur early on in the use of those components. For example, a bad part in a PSU won't be detected until the PSU is put into actual use for a period of time. The same can be said for the mother board, memory, HDDs/SSDs, etc. Consider all the chips and discrete transistors, and other electrical components in any PC besides those in the CPU. There are billions of them. A single bad part can make the entire PC non-functional. That is why a PC can go from working perfectly, to utterly dead, over night, sorry to say. These part don't fail catastrophically all the time, they fail with a whimper, not a bang. ![]() The PSU clicking sound could be one of its protection systems working, caused by a short circuit, for example. It also could be a relay used to jumper a part used only when a PSU has powered applied to it, for efficiency reasons, so not a problem. But it could also be a PSU problem. My suggestions would be, first replace the PSU with another unit. That should be a relatively simple thing to do, given your build. Prior to that, really checking the PSU cable connections at both ends should be done. The +12V CPU power cable would be the one I would check first. Given the complexity of your liquid cooling system, a single tiny leak could ruin the board, as you know. When do these leaks tend to happen? Early in the life of the system, even if it was leak tested. A thorough and complete inspection must be done. I know, you've done that already, you are sure all is well. I get that. ![]() But if it comes to breaking down the PC to remove the board, please do that carefully so you will find any problem that could happen AGAIN. I know you don't want to do this even once, but twice or more? Of course not. I see no Dr Debug display on your board. Do you have the POST code beep speaker installed? Was this system over clocked at all? Or running at stock CPU settings? I'm thinking about what else you can do, but that's all I have for now. |
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eucalyptus ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 11 Feb 2016 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Hello ![]() I hope you wasn't sarcastic with "OMGawd, with the complexity of that build, which I cannot even really see in your pictures, what could be worse than the mother board failing... if it has. " And yes you are right. Everything runs just fine, 2x D5 pumps att maximum, 4x fans, which two of them are EKWB Vardar 3000RPM, and all led lights on 12V when connected to a psu tester, which also gives OK on all Voltages. But I know it isn't the same thing as loading it with heavier stuff. As you can see in the second picture I do only have my XSPC temperature for the water loops at 5V. Everything is brand new and only by the best qualities, which obviously also can fail. But I wouldn't be really surprised if a cheap psu would destroy my parts or break anything. But I do know quality products isn't a guarantee for anything ![]() The cables is fine, and should be fine. It has been standing alone locked in my garage with only me accessing it and never moved. At Sunday night I was installing CS GO, let it run 2 hours and then turned it off and went to bed, Woke up and it had died by itself... So from working to dead by not changing or moving anything. I know leaks can cause a problem. But I do not have any leaks at the moment. And I have the mother board protected from any water drops when testing. I am not a beginner.... ![]() Nothing is over clocked, didn't really got that far hahah... Only benchmarked with 3Dmark. The Motherboard picture were taken earlier. I have now installer a speaker to the mobo, but it's completely dead. Not a signal. Not a sign to be alive. And those motherboards doesn't have any "led lights to show power" and not a power switch as far I know. And about the psu clicking when connected to motherboard and trying to start. Yes it could be a safety switch that click, click, click every 3 second. But I wonder how the mobo could shortcut itself like that. I haven't touched it since it was working. I mean, some people has an extra screw extender behind that could do a shortcut ![]() I know that the only thing I did on Sunday was from "fast boot" setting it to "ultra fast boot", but I have re-set bios multiple times after that, if that could be to any help? Have you ever seen or heard about a mobo die by itself? Edit** forgot to post "second picture" ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by eucalyptus - 11 Feb 2016 at 4:07am |
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