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AR Fatal1ty 970 Performance- RAM compatibility |
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wardog 
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 Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 7:07am |
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And check that DRAM Voltage is at 1.65v, which is proper for these sticks at 1600. |
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dinin70
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Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 4:57pm |
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Hi Wardog,
Ok thank you, I'll follow the procedure this evening and will keep you posted. Do you need something else than the standard CPUZ, HWM & FStream printscreens?
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wardog
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Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 5:37pm |
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No, I don't. But maybe PetrolHead has.
Let us know how it goes. If it doesn't behave setting them via XMP we can take a stab at entering the specs in manually. Have a good day at work |
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PetrolHead
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Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 7:57pm |
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Thank you for posting the pics.
If you look at the recorded clock speeds, you'll see a big difference there too. I wouldn't expect changing RAM voltage to cause you CPU to run at 4 GHz most of the time. It's likely due to your computer doing something that prevents it from accessing those lower performance states. Hmm. Your AUXTIN temperature seems a bit high if we assume that it's the PSU's temperature sensor and that it's working properly. Are you able to check if the PSU fan is working and if yes, is the air that it's blowing out warm? P.S. CPU-Z, HWM and FSTREAM info will do just fine, at least for now. Edited by PetrolHead - 07 Jan 2016 at 7:58pm |
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Ryzen 5 1500X, ASRock AB350M Pro4, 2x8 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3466CL16, Sapphire Pulse RX Vega56 8G HBM2, Corsair RM550x, Samsung 960 EVO SSD (NVMe) 250GB, Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500 GB, Windows 10 64-bit
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WKjun
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Posted: 07 Jan 2016 at 8:26pm |
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Without reading through the whole four pages, I would like to suggest AMD Radeon RAM Kits. Since the memory controller is within the (AMD) CPU, why not use AMD RAM?I am aware that most QVLs are dated and they surely concentrate these tests to the Intel field, but even though Radeon kits were not in those lists, I never had problems.
A general recommendation is to check the "sub-timings". For example if a kit has CL10-11-11-30, by sub-timings I mean all the others. I often see mainboards not reading out SPD correctly. Not even if XMP or AMP is being used! A great tool to read nearly all the timings is AIDA64. Even AMD Overdrive will do most of them. These sub-timings tend to be most important for long-time stability when running at specification limits. And remember using memory above 2133 MHz (theoretically 2200 MHz) is no good at AM3(+). OC'ing the CPU-NB can be an incidious matter and has nearly no performance impact, especially on memory side.
Edited by WKjun - 07 Jan 2016 at 8:31pm |
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dinin70
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Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 12:46am |
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Ok, so let's go step by step. Thank you all for your feedbacks.
--> Wardog: My Kingston RAM arrived and I'm planning to fit it straight away rather than running through the entire BIOS process. To recall the RAM I picked up are: - 1866Mhz 10-11-10 @ 1.5V Am I right doing so this evening? - Change RAM sticks - Reset UEFI, reboot - Save and exit, reboot - Select XMP, reboot - Check if RAM is set @ 1866Mhz and 1.5V. If yes done, if not, set them @ 1866Mhz and 1.5V
Is there something I can do to this?
Ok, I'll check and tell you this evening.
I would have loved to, but rather difficult to find them in Europe.
Ok, Is there a way to check and modify timings?
I'm not planning to O/C anything, no worries on this side ;) Edited by dinin70 - 08 Jan 2016 at 12:47am |
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dinin70
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Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 4:42am |
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Hi Wardog,
I did as you suggested and everything went fine. XMP is enabled, they are set as "Dual Channel", voltage and Frequency got correct on Auto. Strangely, HyperX don't seem to function. XMP option was not present, not able to put them at 1.5V for 1866mhz, Bios failing to boot, set as "Single Channel" in CPU-Z... So in the End those Corsair seem to fit the MoBo better than those Kingston I will return ASAP... PertolHead, Here are the printscreens. Concerning the PSU, yes the fan is turning and the airflow is rather cool. But what is the AUXIN? Isn't it the chipset? Maybe the CPU needs some extra Thermal glue... Finally, WKjun, the latency figures fit the Memory tabs according to CPU-Z, unless it is not reliable. I'm stuck... Didn't have any BSOD since the one when I was installing Drivers. Maybe the fact of having the RAM more in line with what it should be is just what was needed... However I don't shout victory so quickly. Computer went previously fine for several weeks, then loads of BSOD. Then I fix something (like Bitdefender), seem to be OK for few weeks, then again loads of crashes. Now we did that, and I fear it will start again to BSOD again in a few weeks. I'm happy Voltage doesn't seem to pike even though it looks high but this AUXIN and CPU clock staying at max worry me...
Edited by dinin70 - 08 Jan 2016 at 4:45am |
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PetrolHead
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Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 4:48am |
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This is a good point. On the 970M Pro3 I see the rest of the timings as well as the read SPD values for them when I go and set the values manually. Thing is, I can't even set all values to what they're supposed to be (tRCF at least is one of these), but it doesn't seem to matter on my system. dinin70, I suggest you do as WKjun suggested and use either AIDA64, AMD Overdrive or the BIOS/UEFI to check the rest of the timings. CPU-Z doesn't show all timing values, unfortunately.
That's not a huge surprise considering everything above 1866 MHz is an OC if the motherboard has more than two memory slots in total, everything above 1600 MHz is an OC if there are four slots and two or four memory modules, and everything above 1333 MHz is an OC if any of those modules are anything other than single rank. |
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PetrolHead
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Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 6:28am |
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It's the AUXTIN (notice the T), and it means auxiliary temperature index. It's basically just a label that the program has assigned some sensor by what it thinks it is. It's supposed to be the PSU temperature sensor, but there may not even be one. If the airflow is rather cool, then I doubt those numbers are correct. The AUXTIN value on my system is 25 C +- 1 C no matter what I do, and the airflow coming from the PSU is cool. The chipset (NB) is likely SYSTIN, CPUTIN is the socket and TMPIN3 is a mystery to me. About the thermal "glue", you should have the least amount possible of it between the CPU and the cooler. This is because it doesn't conduct heat very well (compared to aluminium or copper, at least). The reason it is used at all is because it conducts heat a lot better than air, which is what you'd otherwise have between the CPU and the heatsink, trapped in the small imperfections of the surfaces. An _extra_ layer of thermal glue will thus make your CPU run hotter if the current one is fine. A _new_ layer may make it run cooler, if the current layer is not fine. If you think there's a problem with your CPU (package) temperatures, you can find a lot of instructions online about how to apply the so called TIM between the CPU and the heatsink. I personally prefer to spread a very thin layer on the CPU (or the heatsinki, depending on which one has a smaller surface area). Many people swear by the "pea method" or "rice grain method", however. Regarding the temperatures, what is you computer doing when it reaches 53 C on the socket as well as the CPU? Was your system idle when you took a printscreen of this? If yes, do you have a lot of "bloatware" or other stuff that runs on startup? |
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wardog
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Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 11:00am |
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Ok, great! So your original Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 memory is running fine now? That is good news.
Indeed it is. |
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wardog wrote: