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AR Fatal1ty 970 Performance- RAM compatibility
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wardog View Drop Down
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Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:

If you think there's a problem with your CPU (package) temperatures, you can find a lot of instructions online about how to apply the so called TIM between the CPU and the heatsink. I personally prefer to spread a very thin layer on the CPU (or the heatsinki, depending on which one has a smaller surface area). Many people swear by the "pea method" or "rice grain method", however.


Count me as one of the blob folks.

Back in the old "CPUs ran hotter than hell' days I became a convert. IMO, in MY opinion and experiences, spreading it prior to fitting sometimes allows for air pockets to form in the paste/TIM between the processor and sink when the sink is secured.

While the round blob method you do need to be careful in fitting and securing, as the blob is pressed outwards no air pockets will form as it is continually coursing towards the outer periphery. Carfeful as you apply the sink that you apply even and level pressure while lowering the sink.

My 2cents anyways.
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Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:


Regarding the temperatures, what is you computer doing when it reaches 53 C on the socket as well as the CPU? Was your system idle when you took a printscreen of this? If yes, do you have a lot of "bloatware" or other stuff that runs on startup?
 
 
Hi Petrolhead. To be honest nothing. It rebooted like 20 times since I was trying to make the RAM work (the Kingston). Finally had to place again the Corsair. So except this multiple rebooting, nothing special.
 
This morning it's turning between 39-44°
 
The PC is 15cm from a rather big Heater (Radiator).
 
 
 
Anyway I see from F Stream that the target temperature is 45.
 
 
I hadn't in mind 53C for an AMD was a big figure.
 
 
This evening I will check the latencies.
 
 
Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:



Ok, great! So your original Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 memory is running fine now?

That is good news.

 
It looks so :D
 
Thank you very much!
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dinin70 View Drop Down
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Concerning the CPU FAN I don't know if there is something wrong... Indeed this morning HWMonitor didn't register any RPM from the CPU FAN (I didn't check if the Fan was turning or not), which makes sense since the temp didn't exceed 45C.
 
Yesterday, when the CPU was over 50C, the HWM was registering only punctual rotations from the CPU Fan. If the Target Temp in F-Stream is set @ 45C, isn't the CPU Fan meant to rotate as long as the CPU Temp doesn't reach 45?
 
For example my Graphic Card Fans (as long as Trixx is open) comply with the targeted Temp.
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Maybe I screwed up with the thermal paste... Going to check that this evening. Or maybe my TX3 Evo isn't powerful enough even though I doubt it.
 
Do you recommend the Noctua NH D14? Or the CoolerMaster TX3 is enough?
 
I have a Antec Twelve Hundred with 6 fans, so normally I shouldn't have airflow problems.
 
My PSU is a Corsair TX750W which is rather well rated through the internet so I guess I'm safe on this side equally.


Edited by dinin70 - 08 Jan 2016 at 8:28pm
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wardog View Drop Down
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If it's the Hyper TX3 with wire fan securements you should be good

http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-tx3-with-fan-bracket/

That Noctua NH D14 is, IMO, overkill unless you plan on pushing some serious voltage into the CPU. That, and I forget what the maximum HS/F weight safely allowed is on AMD motherboards but I'm guessing the D14 comes close, if not over.
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Apologies for the OT to everyone.

Originally posted by wardog wardog wrote:


Count me as one of the blob folks.

Back in the old "CPUs ran hotter than hell' days I became a convert. IMO, in MY opinion and experiences, spreading it prior to fitting sometimes allows for air pockets to form in the paste/TIM between the processor and sink when the sink is secured.

While the round blob method you do need to be careful in fitting and securing, as the blob is pressed outwards no air pockets will form as it is continually coursing towards the outer periphery. Carfeful as you apply the sink that you apply even and level pressure while lowering the sink.

My 2cents anyways.


It's true that spreading it prior to fitting has the potential to form air pockets in the TIM layer. The thing about the blob method, however,  is that there's really no way of covering the whole heatspreader or the bottom of the sink without having "too much" of it. This means there will in effect be large air pockets in each corner of the heatspreader. I noticed this when I tried to follow Noctua's instructions on applying the TIM and then had to re-install the heatsink; the pea-sized TIM blob had spread to a pancake the size of a large coin, but hadn't even reached the nearest edges of the heatspreader. Of course the most important thing is to get a proper TIM layer over the die, which is a lot smaller than the heatspreader, and this is what the method had achieved. I don't know if getting a TIM layer on the rest of the heatspreader has a noticeable effect on temperatures, but my OCD says that's the way to do it. ;)

The bottom line in any case is that as long as the temperatures stay in check, it doesn't really matter which method has been used.
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Originally posted by dinin70 dinin70 wrote:

Hi Petrolhead. To be honest nothing. It rebooted like 20 times since I was trying to make the RAM work (the Kingston). Finally had to place again the Corsair. So except this multiple rebooting, nothing special.
 
This morning it's turning between 39-44°
 
The PC is 15cm from a rather big Heater (Radiator).
 
In that case I think the temperatures might be a bit high and you might want to try moving the case further away from the radiator before you do anything else. The CPU temperature isn't really meaningful below 45 C and even then it's not necessarily a proper temperature due to the way AMD CPUs determine the temperature. As long as the readings in HWMonitor stay below 62 C, you should be fine when it comes to stability. If you see anything close to that without overclocking and running something like Prime95, then you probable have an issue with cooling.

The socket temperature (CPUTIN) should be reasonably reliable at least at low temperatures, and that's the one that worries me the most. If you're not doing anything much, then ideally you should be seeing temperatures nearer 30 C when idle - although maybe the FX CPU just makes the socket run a lot hotter than my Phenom II. You should check if the CPU compatibility list for your motherboard specifies the need to use a top-down blowing CPU cooler with your FX CPU. If it does, then you should find a way to provide airflow to the socket, possibly with a spot fan.

Oh, and concerning the rpm readings in HWMonitor or other programs, they may not be correct at all. However, if you've set the target temp in F-Stream to 45 C, I'd expect the fan to spin only at the speed that is needed to keep that temperature. If you're idling, then the speed may indeed be zero (and this might at least partially explain the socket temperature). I'm just guessing here, though, since I've no experience in using F-Stream. All my fan speeds are set in BIOS, and I have them on full all the time... You could try lowering the target temperature in F-Stream and seeing what happens.
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Originally posted by PetrolHead PetrolHead wrote:


The bottom line in any case is that as long as the temperatures stay in check, it doesn't really matter which method has been used.


Couldn't agree more.

For perspective, which ever method is used, so long as the die that rests under the center of "lid' is covered with TIM on top you're good as that's the only part under the lid that makes direct contact. The outer edges of the "lid' rests atop a bead of non-heat conducting silicone.

Delidded AMD 8-Core Bulldozer Processor:
Delidded 8-core Bulldozer Module

Edited, added a couple " 's and one and for clarification purposes


Edited by wardog - 09 Jan 2016 at 11:38pm
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dinin70 View Drop Down
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Hi,

The heater probably doesn't help but I don't think it's the main reason. When I took the latest figures it was overnight when heaters are off.

When I'm running furmark on CPU it gets pretty quickly over 60° (less than 10seconds) and I prefer stopping before harming too much the CPU.

Obviously furmark is not representative of real conditions (8 cores running altogether at 100% is unlikely to happen), but yet I'm pretty sure there something wrong as you are all saying. Next week I'll be receiving the Noctua paste and I'll try to change that. I bought a manual front pannel fan controller (since I anyway need front USB because they are all broken on the Tower).

By the way, I have only Fan on the CoolerMaster: must the fan be looking upwards or downwards?

Furthermore Wardog I have the TX3 Evo (which is another product), what are those "safe brackets" you are mentionning? 

It is not fixed through "screws" but with the small  lever (if you see what I mean)



Anyway I would like to thank you already for your support. I hope the BSOD were caused by the RAM inconsistencies but yet I won't stay peace until I get that CPU cooler :)
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wardog View Drop Down
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Eh, we're having translation issues. Sorry for that.

Me: "wire fan securements"
You: "safe brackets"

Not brackets, but how the fans themselves are held onto with against the actual fins of the cooler. The wire fan "clips' that Thermalright are so famous for using.

The "Evo' model is a step up from the original Hyper TX3. So better yet!
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