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Asrock p67 pro 3 error code 62 |
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wardog 
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 Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 3:15am |
Yea. That math just doesn't add up. The Antec you have is an 18a single 12v rail psu. That 18a rail just isn't going to output 23a magically. New psu time IMO. |
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G_Kelley
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Joined: 09 Feb 2016 Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 11:45am |
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But what I don't understand about the psu is I'm running a dying gtx 560 (it has started artifacting) which requires 24amps on a single 12v rail thats what I don't understand they have very similar power draw and psu requirements. I had the 7870 tested and it wasn't giving a signal to the monitor on their test bed anyways I'm about to go over it with a magnifier glass and see if anything is missing. I am determined I to use this 7870
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parsec
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 2:30pm |
The OP of this thread is using a P67 chipset board, released at the end of 2011, using an Intel 2nd Generation processors. Your board has a Z170 chipset, released in the second half of 2015, using an Intel 6th Generation processor. Very different boards, years apart. Plus we don't even know what model of mother board you are using. ASRock gave you a link to update... what? Please start your own thread and include the model of board you are using plus the information in this post. |
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Xaltar
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 2:45pm |
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There are any number of ways a GPU can die and it can be very difficult to figure out. There are some things you can try but you will need to seek help on that from a more GPU centric forum. From my own experience though here are a few things that it could be:
It could be a bad VBIOS flash that has bricked the card The memory may have failed The VRMs could be dead The core could be cracked due to messing with the cooler Something could be shorting on the PCB (fluid from water cooling, cat pee etc) Blown output fuses/resistors, you would have to locate these and test them with a multi-meter. The best place to start is to strip off the cooling unit and thoroughly examine the PCB with a magnifying glass looking for residue, burn marks, missing components and a cracked/chipped core. Once you have done that and if everything looks to be in order you can clean the card carefully with isopropyl alcohol and an old soft toothbrush. Be sure you clean the contacts on the PCIe connector thoroughly. Now when you say there is no signal from the GPU, do you know if the GPU is detected by the OS? To test this you would need to run it in a system with an iGPU so you can boot from the onboard graphics with the 7870 connected to the system. If it is detecting in the OS then there may be hope. If not you can try and download the latest vBIOS for the GPU from it's manufacturer website and see if you can flash the vBIOS using the correct tools. If it was a bad flash that may revive the card. There are other more drastic steps that can be taken but it is best to try all this first as the "last resort" I have in mind could just kill the GPU completely. Edited by Xaltar - 12 Feb 2016 at 2:46pm |
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parsec
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 3:11pm |
How long have you had your Antec TP3-550? It was introduced in 2006, and sold apparently until 2009. So minimally about seven years old. Let's look at the specs on this PSU itself and see what we find:  While it shows 18A maximum for each of the three +12V rails, we can see below the main specs that the total of the three +12V rails at the same time has a maximum load of 42A. That is not quite the simple total of 18A x 3 = 54A. If we assume an equal load distributed on each of the three +12V rails, 42A / 3 = 14A or 168W per rail. If the PCIe power cables are wired with one on each of the three +12V rails, or two on two of the +12V rails, then it might be possible to power the video cards fine with this PSU. That wiring would make sense, but is an unknown. Next, note that a total power output of 42A from the three +12V rails, is 42A x 12V = 504W. That leaves 46W for the load on the +5V and +3.3V rails combined. Finally, we have not yet taken into account the +12V power needs of everything besides the video card. That is the CPU, HDDs, fans, mother board, etc. Regardless, with the correct connections, you can (and have) get by with using the GTX 560 with that PSU. That is because you aren't constantly using the card at full power. BUT, you are stressing that PSU to near or at its maximum capacity while gaming. The 7870 can use even more power. Your GTX 560 may be artifacting because it is not getting enough power. That card may not be failing, but the PSU is instead. Checking the 7870 for missing parts is not a bad idea. Look for damaged or burnt parts too. Also, memory chips, the GPU chip itself, and others, may be bad and show no signs of damage. I just looked up 7870 cards for sale, Used, on Amazon. None were less than ~$150. Given what you paid, I hope it works. |
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Xaltar
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 3:35pm |
Indeed, for that price it is totally worth having some fun with it and trying to make it work again. Once he has done all the things suggested already I can suggest a few more things I have done on old GPUs to breathe life back into them in the past. I used to have a bin full of old, dead GPUs that I would pirate parts from (usually fans and coolers) and occasionally when I was bored would try and revive some of them. The most common cause of failures on higher end cards were failed attempts at "unlocking" them via vBIOS updates. In many cases flashing them back to stock revived them but the process can be tricky. The next most common was failed attempts at adding aftermarket cooling/water cooling where the user cracked/chipped the core. Sadly that is not correctable. I also agree with Parsec and Wardog on the PSU issue, I would replace it and see if your 560 stops artifacting.
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G_Kelley
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 4:32pm |
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ive got an old nvidia 8x gpu in there now and i run speccy and the 7870 was detected as a "basic amd video adapter" but i cant seem to find a bios that i can download i went to the power color website looked at my exact card and nothing. I did find a russian website that had a link for a bios download but when i clicked on it nothing happened. I did lean the card and look it over and everything seemed to be fine i hope that its just a bricked bios btw i get no video but the fans work just fine on it
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Xaltar
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 4:57pm |
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If the card is detected then it is not the vBIOS. The vBIOS determines everything about the card at post so if it is corrupt or broken the card will not detect at all, not even as "basic xxxx". If it is detecting then the issue is coming from elsewhere and now you need to determine if it is just an output problem, blown fuses or resistors on the outputs or if there is a deeper issue. Right near the HDMI/DVI/ect connectors there should be a collection of resistors and components that trace directly to the outputs. This is where you will need to look, very carefully, for any burned/missing components.
I personally suspect that the outputs are blown. If it was bad memory or a bad core typically the card will display something, usually flashing colors, garbled nonsense etc. There should be tiny fuses connecting to each of the display outputs but also a further array of fuses and circuitry that connects to all of those. If all the outputs are providing no signal then likely something is damaged at a point before the signal is split to all the outputs. Trace the circuits very carefully back from one of the outputs and find the point the signal is split. Examine the components in that area very carefully, you should find a blown fuse, resistor or IC. Interestingly, if you know any electronics gurus this problem should be easy for them to trace and correct, if it is only an output issue then it is no different than the circuitry found on a TV, radio or any other device that has inputs/outputs. I have a friend that usually does this kind of stuff for me for free but depending on where you live it may be cheaper and easier to give it to a professional to check the output circuitry.
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G_Kelley
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 5:18pm |
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so what does said blown fuse look like the reason i am asking i couldn't find a picture of one and thanks to every one who is helping me trouble shooting this "deep" is new to me
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Xaltar
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 5:48pm |
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You will likely need to use a digital multimeter to test for resistance. If you google search "GPU output fuse" you should find a lot of images of both resistors and fuses used on various GPUs. They can look vastly different from one manufacturer to the next so I can't describe what they will look like.
All the components following a circuit trace should provide resistance though so if you find one that does not that looks anything like these:  They should absolutely have a resistance rating on a test meter. If you find one that does not (it must look visually similar to these, the color can vary) you can try the pencil trick. For the pencil trick you basically draw a line on the resistor/fuse in pencil that connects the 2 solder points. This should be conductive enough to get signal on the GPU if that is the only damaged component. The thicker the line the greater the conductivity. Generally any component soldered on to the PCB at each end like this should have a resistance rating. Now, once you identify the damaged component/components and tested with the pencil trick you really should replace the broken components with matching ones. There should be numbers on the components that will allow you to order them. If you do get this far you need to be careful to orient the replacements the right way or you will damage other components and probably brick the GPU completely.
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G_Kelley wrote: